This thread confirms what I have always thought - leave painting to experts![]()
if he is lucky enough to have a good quality enamel , it may not be to bad
a brand like DuPont has a complete system that's compatible
the pigments are all the same , so if you want enamel , just add the enamel binder
acrylic , same deal ,2pac same again , plus hardener
and all 3 are compatible with each other , so you can spray one over the other without it frying up
only drawback
its not cheap
ian
nostalgia is not what it used to be:
Well that counts out 'export brand' paints.Originally Posted by ian
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
I have a question of gun settings, I am running the compressor at about 30-40psi.
I'm in the process of painting an RA28 Bonnet in Acrylic (metallic) and I'm about to shoot the colour tomorrow over the prepared surface.
I have had issues with really bad orange peeling and I mean really bad. I do have the impression that the Prepsol I am doing the rub down in is contaminated ( I'll be getting a new tin in the morning)
But I have been unhappy with the rate that the paint is being applied to the surface.
I'd like some of the more experienced painters to tell me how much paint they use in the gun to do 1 coat of (say) primer or colour.
I'm using a gravity feed gun, 2.5mm for High fill, and 1.8 for the Colour. I have a spray pattern I'm happy with but, I seem to be blowing alot of air and not much paint, thou the result of a few coats is satisfactory.
I just want to build up a few light coats of the colour rather than dumping too heavy a coat on in 1 go. Should the colour be shiney as it goes on or is it really a dull look. ( I am aware that the finish will be dull, but I'm refering to the finish immediatly off the gun before it flashes off.
Cheers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
is the gun spotless?
The last car I sprayed was in metallic acrylic, the strainer that sits in between the pot and gun got gummed up at one stage (from lazy cleaning technique), and it went from spraying beautifully to a really terrible/stripey finish.
I found the finish of the acrylic colour also varied depending on the thinner used, the more expensive thinner ended up with more gloss in the colour coat prior to clear.
I do one light coat, then can lay it on a bit thicker without the paint running. I usually mix about 600ml of paint for a bonnet and have a bit left over
Yeah... I'm mixing 600ml for a coat that doesn't fully cover. this is my concern.
Brand new gun, More expensive thinner.
I guess I'm learning the point where paint starts to run, hense dust coating.
This gun seems to push aheck of alot more air than my old one. I just don't seem to have the time to see what is happening off the gun.
Cheers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
Spraying metallic acrylic, I wouldn't recommend heavy coats.
Orange peel is often due to a mixture that is too thick, as is poor coverage per pass.
I had to thin out the paint on my car past the recommended mixture and then spray light coats.
It was recommended to me that I do the main coats of colour and then do some very light coats over the panels afterwards in different directions to even out the striping that often appears with metallic paints. Pearlitic paints are particularly bad for stripes appearing.
Orange peel: too thick or gun movement too slow for the air pressure.
Thin the paint more and go faster using multiple coats.
Stripes: spray lighter coats and change direction for final light coats.
Keep swirling the pot continuously between passes as metallic paint settles as you spray it.
These are things that I found worked and that fixed the metallic issues I've had.
Always keep your gravity feed filter clean and check them regularly.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
im looking at spraying some interior plastic bits, is there a particular paint i should be looking at? They would be a high contact surface so im guess i will have to use 2pac as acrylic will just flake.
i feel much better now that ive given up hope
When it comes to coverage its always good idea to first use a solid color basecote depending on the color, usually a light grey is sufficient for most color metallic's you will then use lot less of the top color. as far as thinning with acrylics use recommended ratios avoid thick paint and use wide fan setting overlapping each stroke by around 15%. important with metalic's, after you think your've applied enough color a good tip if your not sure is to shine a fluorescent lead light or similar on panel, it will show up insufficient coverage and then you thin met paint right down and mist cote evenly to help avoid streaking, usually two or three passes will do.
To avoid orange peel four medium cote's of clear thinned around 70-30% depending on what brand your using, after overnight block (rubber or cork) down wet 600-800 and reclear two med cotes, again wet rub 1200 -2000 and buff till you are satisfied with gloss. with acrylic your can repeat the clear many times but keep in mind this is old technology two pac is much less labor involved and two -three cotes of two pac clear same affect as ten coates acrylic and not that much more expensive, down side is not so forgiving to the inexperienced as acrylic is.
your up early pete
nostalgia is not what it used to be:
Yeah It's a very heavy metallic, thinned 35-65 ATM. I'm getting a hammertone finish which looks like shiet IMHO.
I've dropped the air pressure down but the Shit still aint happening. 4 light coats can still see primer / runs / lines... all of the above. Paint also doesn't appear to be taking to the edges either.
I must be Mcshit at painting. I've just never had this much problems before.
CHeers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
just a late night ,and now just up ian, gee's i went on a bit hope i helpedOriginally Posted by ian
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Nah... is good info.... I'm happy with the cover of the metallic fleck with lighter coats, but the surface is just so rough. I'm about to put 1 last dust coat of colour on then clear over it.
I'm probably going to pretty much put a litre of clear over it to get some thickness to cut back.
I'm just so dissapointed after the several weeks of prep gone into the bonnet. I obviously have alot to learn, I just don't really understand where I went wrong.
Cheers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
If your surface is to rough then you are applying to dry, and to thick, slow down your strokes and thin paint more try and get in a position where you can see the paint going on ( you need good lighting).
Now that your surface is to ROUGH just lightly rub back with 800-1200 and add couple more coats as i mentioned above, the good thing about ackrilic you can lightly rub down after 20min and rework before clear
That would have been good to know before I started with the clear....
As it stands the coat of paint is just to stop the bonnet from rusting so an awsome finish isn't high on the list. Also the crows feet that have appeared means I really should take the whole lot back and start over.
I'm thinninh the clear down to 33% 66% and spraying a slightly heavier coat as the last thinner coat smoothed out alot. I jetted more paint and the first pass spluttered out a little, so I'm going to add a little more paint and air flow for the heavier coat.
Cheers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
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