The Spray Painting Thread

[Sigmeister]

OK, Quick safety tip..
I normally use latex gloves when painting\fibreglassing or similar. When using paint stripper, use something thick:

Paint stripper seems to eat the gloves and heat's up your hand.

Now, after a lot of paint stipping and gooey mess I am nearly there.
From this

To this

And finally this



Other than a final clean up I think I am nearly there. Just a quick question. I assume that what's left is some form of coating (As stated before) like zinc or galv was where the stripper was is different to where I grinded a bit initially:


Also what would be my next step? Do I need to sand the metal at all? Should I use some rust converter or POR15 on the exposed bare metal?

Hopefully once my questions are answered I'll be able to start spraying soon

[airfireman1]

You need to use NITRILE gloves as they are acid resistant and also resistant to most chemicals.
they can be purchased at most industrial safety equipment stores,
Cheers

[70XIN]

down to metal? time to get out some etch primer

a light sand over with ~400 grit will get off any surface rust and such, just make sure you wipe it down well with wax and grease (or alternative)

[o_man_ra23]

down to metal? time to get out some etch primer

a light sand over with ~400 grit will get off any surface rust and such, just make sure you wipe it down well with wax and grease REMOVER (or alternative)

Fixed fo joo Could have been a nasty mess otherwise

[brett_celicacoupe]

re the paintstripper,

when i did use it i found that giving the surface a quick once-over with a hand wire brush helped the stripper get right in.


i take my panels back to bare metal with a 40grit sanding disc on the 6" grinder. doesnt take long at all but you do need to keep an eye on how warm the surface is getting.

i then prime it with quality high build 2pac spray filler/primer. it comes out very smooth after a light sand.

[andy]

just before painting, is there something i should go over the ferring with to clean it up?
i was thinking of using alcohol to remove any oil with no residue.

[70XIN]

Fixed fo joo Could have been a nasty mess otherwise

jesus christ! i'm never offering suggestions at that hour again hahaha

andy, yes, something like alcohol or wax and grease remover would be good

[o_man_ra23]

Dont use alcohol... just use wax and grease remover. Have a damp/moist rag, and wipe quickly. Also try and wipe the same way along and not in a squiggly bikini wash manner

[andy]

why not alcohol? sorry for the dumb question, but im learning and would like to know what would happen if i did. i thought it would be good cos its so clean.

what about the stuff panel beaters use to remove the glue left over after peeling off a sticker? would that be the right stuff to use? i forgot the name but i got some at home.

[o_man_ra23]

Alcohol messes with your paint surface. Learned this the hard way. As a test, wipe a bit of metho across something thats painted to a high gloss and is clean, and do it in the same manner you would clean in prep for painting. You will get white streaks across it where it has a chemical reaction with the paint.

[ian]

you cant go past prepsol
it removes oils etc as well as it promotes adhesion
also use a sealer , it will hold down any thing that will try and bleed through
and out a couple of drops of anti silicon drops ,in with the top coat
best of luck
ian

[o_man_ra23]

Would you bother adding the anti silicone drops if you went for a bare metal spray?? Its not like theres a possibility then of somebody having used nu finish polish before is there??

[twentyEight]

Most definately!

It's for silicons that are present in the air and your shed/workshop...

[o_man_ra23]

Right on then... go the anti silicone additive if thats the case.

[ian]

also the fairings are plastic
and more often than not there is a reaction to the pcv's that are present
it may be worth considering some flex add this is the stuff they put in the paint on plastic bumper bar covers so the can flex without cracking
ian