Intercept ECUs...

[mullett]

Who's got some experience with the piggyback ECU adjusters availible? Just interested in a comparo between, for example:

SAFC II: $400ish, fuel only control, displays engine data in-cab

E-Manage: $600ish, plus looms etc. Controls fuel and spark, no display.

J-Car fuel/air adjuster: No idea....

If someone want's to add other devices, feel free. If people could offer up ease of tuning, accuracy, cost and cost of tuning, good places to buy (www.greenline.jp)...etc

RM.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster - 128 points over which you can adjust the AFM signal, like the SAFC without the bling and way more resolution. About $100-125 including the hand controller.

[mullett]

So the Jaycar one is actually as functional (in a tuning sense) as the SAFC? Reliable as well? There's a lot of Jaycar stuff which seems fairly cheap and decent...anyone got any experience?

[sw20r]

tehWitz is the man! he did some units for for his 4AGTE AE71.

He also sells some jaycar units that he builds

Here's a copy of my old safc 2 install + review..

Finally finished Installing my Fuel controller unit as the wiring for an mr2 has to be extended to fit the rear mounted ecu. The entire job isn't hard at all - just takes time fiddling around.

So here's the write up for those interested.

These units usually retail from $450-$650 and suite most JDM cars (thought honda/mitsubishi drivers might like to try the v-afc variant) and can also be had second hand from $250-400.

Tools required - Vice grip, Scissors/Sharp blade, Soldering gun or Electrical tape.

Install -

Make sure study the wiring diagram first. Best to match the ecu pin out with the hardcopy this will give you an idea where to splice/cut/tap.

When wiring the power and especially the ground (2 wires) make sure they are securely insulated and mounted as directed by the book. atleast 1cm apart. This could cause an unstable voltage issue and worse fire.


Once installed and everything is double checked your ready to start the car and set up the functions!

tuning



If purchased second hand. It's best to Initialise the settings first.

Move into the "Etc". Menu and select the appropriate values for your vehicle. 4/6/8cly. sensor types etc (specific vehicle settings and menu described in the manual)


Once set
Go into "Monitor" mode display the basic functions such as battery, rpm, pressure/afm and knock. Make sure they all display otherwise you've wired something wrong.

Now you can take it down to your favourite garage/tuner or if you're going to attempt doing the tune yourself make sure you have access to an airfuel ratio meter (w/ wideband o2).


Based on your modifications - eg. boost/larger turbo, upgraded injectors, camshafts. It's good to have an idea of its characteristics before you try to tune the unit yourself so you determine where adjustments will be needed.

The SAFC-II unit has a built in knock sensor unit which does the job for home tuners simply adjusting the fuel -/+ 10. But if you don't have mechanical knowledge on what Knock, Detonation is please take it to a professional. Anything more then 20-25% on most standard JDM vehicles usually causes a ecu code error.

the finished product



Job rating - 7/10 (not too hard just make sure to follow the instructions and be prepared to spend 3-5 hours)

Hope you guys enjoy this little write up! If anybody would like some light advice or help on installation feel free to drop a line(but please don't take this all in as gospel). I'm writing this as a basic guideline do DIY. plenty more to come as the mods start rolling in.



Review Part 2

Ok after been fiddling around and tuning the unit comes a sad conclusion for Toyota users.

It's a fact that if you do any negative -% fuel adjustments the timing will advance!

So if you were to lean out the top end becuase of a rich mixture.. your actually making it worse by adding more ignition which is very bad.

Though there is a positive cure - Adjustable FPR.

Eg. 3SGTE 2.0L w/ 440cc injectors runs at 35psi.
Detune the pressure to 30. Then tune with a postive fuel correction +% thus eliminating the risk of timing advance and easier tuning environment variables.

The next step is to either tune on a dyno or with a wideband 02 sensor if doign on the street. You want the idle fuel mixture about the 11-13 range for FI, and 13-15 for a stoich N/A. this is how I would tune the vehicle.

Keep in mind this is only a fuel computer and a piggy back at that. So you will need more then just this unit to get potential.

You can also mod the unit to adjust by boost instead of having a static map. Which is abit more complex but will be better as you wont chug up hills when you have a richer mixture down low.

None the less this product is very good and is worth the money once setup correctly. For those who can't afford full ecu's or dont find it feesable to purchase one with only bolt on mods (exhaust filter headers injectors cams).

Then the Apexi SAFC + Adj. Fuel pressure regulator. is for you :d

[JustCallMeOrlando]

So the Jaycar one is actually as functional (in a tuning sense) as the SAFC? Reliable as well?

More, and yes.

[mullett]

Very interesting. Spoke to my local tuning shop on the way home, and he's never tuned one, but is keen to try. At the moment I have VERY rich mixtures up top (4A-GZE, 165mm pulley etc etc), is the comp going to advance the ignition if I lean this out: Will I need an adjustable FPR?

Oh, and JayCar don't do anything to control ignition do they?

RM.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Not really no, but neither does the SAFC. From the documentation on the DFA though, it says the ECU generally advances the ignition slightly because it thinks it's under less load.

[mullett]

Just noticed you were in WA as well, have you had these tuned by a workshop in WA? If so, who? It's sounding like a good idea to fix my toyotasafetune at 10-1 or something horrible under boost....

RM.

[45aken]

the emanage will kill them all, and can be had for really cheap these day. you can tune it with a computer etc etc. plus later on down the line you can buy extra fittings etc to control igniting timing etc etc etc

you can have a display for it, wither throught the greddy profec e-01 (boost controller) or the display screen.

it's a really powerful unit.

althought you can only to so much with interceptors, i;d have to say the emanage is the most powerful, with the most functions. havent looked at any other play and play (haltec/mirotech etc) thought.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The EManage is the most power, it's also the most expensive. You do get what you pay for though.

[atomic rob]

the emanage ultimate is a very capable unit virtually the same as a gd standalone ecu and at around 1000$ nz. is gd value.

[sw20r]

if your going emanage - buy the main unit only. then source an aftermarket addon from japan. $200 controlls all functions plug and play

no hassles wiring and about $700-800 complete ecu package

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/878

[mullett]

I know the Emanage Ultimate allows the deletion of the AFM, but by the time you've bought it and the ancillary stuff, it's still around the 1k mark...you can get a microtech for that...is it really worth it?

RM.

[sw20r]

In the end it all comes down to the tuner. You can have a $3000 motec but can they tune it?

[mullett]

Yeah, I hear you on that. Still the burning question: a Jaycar adjuster will cure my short term fuel issues, but will it throw my timing way out? And if so, how bad is it and how can I cure it?