help me solve my boost controller probs (1jz)

[naten]

Hey guys,

Im pulling my hair out here.

Ive recently installed a norgren valve to control wastegate creep on my 1jz as pictured below. I followed the instructions here to the letter the only variation being is i only used the valve that controls wastegate creep. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0670/...popularArticle

Once i start to wind it in (to hold back more pressure) it hits boost cut too quickly. I can adjust it right out so the boost spike is below boost cut (around 13psi) but this doesnt increase the speed at which boost comes on.

I thought ok maybe there is something flawed with the valve so i posted on toymods and found an old celicamad wastegate controller that petespipes kindly supplied.

I installed it and im having the same problem. It just doesnt bring the boost on any faster and when i do adjust it, it just hits boost cut.

Pic of my setup is here

Is there something im missing? I was thinking that maybe the hoses are too long but many other 1j's run boost controllers with no trouble.

thanks for any help!

Nathan

[xman]

1jz's using the standard settup usually start to make useably boost around 2500rpm and come on strong from 3000 upwards. Below that the turbos are not getting enough gas to be effecient.
If you're not getting boost untill higher rpm your wastegates may not be closing properly, may need to adjust the actuator arm...

[chris davey]

Sounds to me like your valve is VERY sensitive. ie. you have it open and just working as if it wasn't there and all is normal but when you tighten it at all, it is enough to withhold enough pressure that the wastegate will not see whatever boost it is expecting at all and you hit boost cut.

How much are you turning it at a time?

Hard to tell how you have installed it but I think you should have tpieced both comp outlet pipes into 1 pipe and that goes to the IN port on the norgen valve. then the OUT port will be split into 2 and goes to each wastegate actuator. If you have done that, the lines look to be of regular size so maybe it is just the actual valve you are using?

[EldarO]

your hoses each side of the controller need to be of equal length, from what i can see, you've made it incredibly complicated and obvious.

run a line from one wastegate to the other
run another line from one turbo outlet to the other
cut these lines at the mid point between the two turbos (so they're the same length)
put a T peice in both, and run a hose from each hose, to the appropriate port on the controller.

Elmo.

[Darrien]

what would happen if the length is not equal?
as I have a boost controller on my 1jz and it sits 80% to rear?
just curious thanks.

your hoses each side of the controller need to be of equal length, from what i can see, you've made it incredibly complicated and obvious.

run a line from one wastegate to the other
run another line from one turbo outlet to the other
cut these lines at the mid point between the two turbos (so they're the same length)
put a T peice in both, and run a hose from each hose, to the appropriate port on the controller.

Elmo.

[brett_celicacoupe]

what would happen if the length is not equal?

nothing,

put it where you like

[naten]

ok

i have redone my plumbing, the t pieces are in the middle now and the lengths are a tiny bit shorter.


It now looks like this

Did it work? No

Its still doing the same thing as before and it actually makes less boost now. It hits 11 pound and tapers down to 10 at higher rpm. I think this is due to the fact that i dont have the one way vavle so the air has an easier path to the wastegates now.

When i start winding the valve in all i get is a boost spike and it doesnt affect how quick the boost comes on

Chris: when i first started adjust i was using full turns but ive now slowed down to 1/4 or 1/8 turns. Thing is even when it kinda works all it does is cause a boost spike. Adjusting it a lil either way just increases or decreases the boost spike.

Anyone got any other suggestions? I cant think of anything else that would stop it from working properly!

BTW: The arrow on the bottom of the valve denotes the air flow direction so i have it facing towards the wastegates. Im assuming thats correct

[Negative Boost]

Are you using a bleed valve or anything to control the boost pressure? Assuming your not and the lines are going straight to the wastegate actuator (which it looks like in the pics). The spring you have in the norgren valve may be a little too stiff. If i remember correctly, the article says to buy a .7 bar spring (10psi) and he used his 14-16psi. It may just not be able to control 10psi all that well? Or your wastegate actuator may be a little sticky after all these years and it may take an extra split second to open causing you to hit boost cut, spray some wd10 or something into the actuator.

Both are a bit random sugestions but im very interested in the result as im thinking of using the same Norgren valve using the stock wastegate actuator spaced out so max boost is 10psi. I'm thinking i might use a .6bar spring if they stock them so i can control wastegate creep under 10psi more effectively.

Sam

[naten]

No im not using anything to control boost pressure as im happy with the level it boosts to (around 10-11 psi now). The car is stock except fmic and 3" zorst so the boost sits a bit higher then stock.

When i got the norgren valve i bought at the same time the 0.7 bar (approx 10psi) spring and installed it. So assuming they gave me the right spring it should be fine. Acutally i know i double checked the part number on the pack when i got it and its definately the right one.

The thing that i dont get is why it can cause a boost spike but not actually bring boost on faster. So i guess at some level atleast it is restricting the flow to the wastegates, but its not doing its full job.

The valve i got from petepipes should already have the correct spring in it too.

The thing i find interesting is i tried a turbosmart dsbc (piece of shit btw) and its 'gated' system (simple ball and spring) actually made a huge difference in the bringing on of boost. But it causes boost cut and massive boost spikes when trying to adjust boost so i sold it and decieded to go with something to bring on the boost faster and leave the boost level stock.

[brett_celicacoupe]

if i were you id get rid of the big long joining lines between the pressure feeds on each of the compressor housings.


try just connecting one pressure line from the rear housing straight to the boost controller. then just block off the other pressure line on the front compressor housing. i dont understand why people put a T piece between the 2 pressure sides. they both have the same pressure and as far as i can see the only reason for having one on each compressor is to have very short lines to join to each respective watsegate actuator.

obviously you need to leave the T piece in there for the wastegate(s) side of the boost controller.


not sure if that all makes sense but give it a go

[naten]

ok ive modified it again so one lead comes from the back turbo for the pressure and then two out of the controller for the wastegates pics below



No joy still has same problems

The car feel sluggish compare to the first setup i had but i think thats becuase of the one way valve letting it boost better between gears, maybe i should put it back in....

[Mr DOHC]

i have a basic bleed valve, it used to be awesome, 17psi no worries

now is struggles to supply 14 psi without spiking to 18psi

[naten]

is it a gated (ball and spring) type bleed valve? if so thats probably the problem with it.

What im using isnt a bleed valve, its a pressure relief valve. Basically it doesnt open till a preset pressure it reached. So no air should be going to the wastegates until say 10psi is hit then they open. IF it worked it would bring boost on heaps faster as the wastegates are snapped shut until the pressure u set is reached.

However mine is not working

[naten]

just got back from melb so i havent been able to play

did huntley hill climb today and i just left it unscrewed as i didnt want any hassles

anyone got any suggestions?

[naten]

bumpy bumpy