OH and it will be run at 10-28psi in my car at any point basically...
Hey guys,
Just had my car tuned and it seems that my HKS ECV isn't holding 18psi as well as I'd like. So I'm looking for a new boost controller. My tuner has recommended the Trust/Greddy Profect B and I take he recommendations very highly. But I wanted some other opinions as well.
I've heard the E-boost is the best yadda yadda, to be honest it was going to be my preffered option. Its only down side is the cost, new. Prefect is 350-400 vs 700 od for the eboost. If you are gonan say get the e-boost, tell me why!
Anyway, open slather, tell me your preffered options and why! Any help is gold!
Cheers guys!
OH and it will be run at 10-28psi in my car at any point basically...
Im hearing that the Blitz Dual Solenoid range is quite good. Apparently easier to tune than an AVC-R, but no bling. Havent used any of them however...
i used to have a single solenoid blitz unit and it held boost perfect from 10psi to 20psi, this was with a external gate although.....
at the end of the day you ussually get what you pay for but the more expensive ones are sometimes a pain in the arse to work out/tune.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
Try using jaycar do it your self kit as featured in latest copy of zoom. $150+$10 for data cable+$40 mac boost valve+$60 for dyno tune. Feature 1JZGTE picked up 22.9rwks up on first run still hitting boost cut need more tunning to lower gain and also through 4 Speed auto. It works by using 1st injector pulsing then sends the signial to Mac boost vlave back to processor and the only opens when you want it. You can have two boost settings high and low. The E Boost has 4-6 boost settings for each gear and also addtional bezels for up to two shift lights and choose of two sizes colours and cup mounting options. But if you plan many more mods in the future save for a top self Microtech or Haltech or MOTEC. Many more functions but much more money.
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I bought a blitz DSBC spec R, after reading a bunch of reviews it seemed the best bang for buck. no bling tho - functional and good.
I used a AVC-R.
It would have been a good unit, but i could never get it to do what I wanted it to do. It has now been sold.
Back to my GFB bleed valve, it does wonders. Currently looking at buying a Profec B Spec2.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
eboost.
why,
cause its the best one on the market
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
I'll echo this as well, had an eBoost in the old Celica, and it was top notch. I don't know why i sold it now.Originally Posted by 1JZ.747
Ah well.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
I’m run the Blitz DSBC in the Corona. I did initially have dramas running 25psi with a 6psi spring in my Tial 38mm gate. I now have a 14psi spring and the boost controller works perfectly. Basically you want to have a wastegate spring no less than half the desired boost you wish to run. This will help to avoid over boost spiking and unreliable/irregular boost.![]()
1986 RT-142 Corona. Taking the phrase “WTF”, to a whole new level......
PHOBIA. Fear of.........investing your soul into customizing a "f@#kin what" a Corona???
Click to see PHOBIA
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