Have you checked your coilpacks under the boots for cracks?
for once i certainly agree with elmo, check for oil in the cooler as 1 it reduces heat transfer and 2 it lowers the octahe rating of fuel if there is enough making its way to the chambers.
do you run a catch can or does the breather from the cams go to the inlet?
if the engine has lots of kms on it i would run it to a catch can.
shane is right also the factory cooler wont cause your probs.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Have you checked your coilpacks under the boots for cracks?
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
out on a limb, but could it but one or more dirty injectors? if the engine has just started pinging and nothing has changed with the tune, then it must be one of the things which had a direct effect on the tune. either your running a bit lean, or a bit advanced. now you just gotta figure out why.
p.s was the car running ok on 15psi for a while and then its started pinging, or has it started pinging as soon as the boost's been turned up?
GA23(never finished-now with cracked block) JZX83 (Tyre eater) 3sgte AE86. by now i should know better.
Hey all, dont know what happened, didnt get any notification of replys to this thread.
Anyway, stuck the car on the dyno on monday and checked out fuel pressure at idle and full load. We had 40psi at idle and 60 at full load, so the pump is up to the job. mixtures on several runs came in at 11.2 so that looks all good as well, iteresting to see that it didnt ping on the dyno, it only seem to do it on the street in the lower rpm range, if it kicks back a gear its fine but if you put some load on it going up a hill at mid throttle and accelerating, this is when it seems to be causing the problems.
I have done repairs to the coil packs but will look again.
Yes its probably getting a bit higher in the kms so a catch can might be worth looking at.
When i originally set up the boost controller, it had no problems with 16/17psi.
One other question when you do a dyno power run, do you guys disconnect the kick down cable, as every time we tried it would just drop back to 2nd and wheel spin like crazy.
thinking next time will drop the kick down cable off and try again,. Highest power figgure i saw was in the mid 170rwkw area but i didnt see the rpm go over 5500 when the dyno was fully loaded.
Whats the best way to clean oil from a cooler?
thinking of running one of those just jap bar and plate coolers, 450x300x100, see how that goes also.
cheers for the replys guys
Pete
1989 white supra 7mgte manual
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...pra-turbo.html
Don't disconnect the "kick down" cable. It is actually a line pressure cable on electronic autos. Not a good idea to disconnect it. People fiddle with them to make it more loose for more stall or tighter for less stall but higher trap speeds.
My auto is manualised so not overly helpful but lots of people dyno in 3rd with auto but it has to be done a lot more gradually.
Hmm...
Ribfeast how do you go about dynoing yours?
I would expect atleast 200rwkw from the way mine is setup
1989 white supra 7mgte manual
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...pra-turbo.html
put it in third gear, start your pull at 110kph, it wont kick back to 2nd at that speed. as chris said, do not disconnect the kick back cable, as you will fry your trans very quickley due to no line pressure, the clutches will slip like bastards and you will be driving home with no 3 or 4th gear and no reverse.
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
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