How to build an NA engine...

[Sagluren]

now now lets not turn this into a competition about whos got the bigger...

[myne]

look at the cams in the background!

[cuttz]

for the love of reviving swet threads....

i am in process of building a full 1uz ground up engine and understand from my other car/engine builds now that its better to do it all in one hit...
im building mine in 2 stages top end then bottom end
im already deap into the top end build and to put it bluntly am going all out with full cnc,d cylinder heads with port matching twin plenums with twin 90mm throttle bodys
2mm oversized valves but havent decided on what cams to buy yet (due to not knowing what c/r i want yet), as ive done so much researching on the top side of the engine i havent looked into what im doing with the bottom.

i feel with all the top end work i dont want to waist any of it and i may want more capacity but herd the 1uz doesnt like this?

still havent found much info on crank mods ether
but i will most likely be going dry sump
does any 1uz experts have any advice what way to go on the bottom end
parts to use that have been proven and what c/p raito to start with would be a good start(i was thinking 12:1)
and any other secrets would be great and also what not to do's

my goals for the build this far have been to get over 300rwkw and so i can punish it and want to stick to that anything over would be a bonus

and dont want to boost it if i dont have to. but will if have to as well (if i was would be centrifugal supercharger)

all my other builds ive done myself have been 6 cyls and 4 cyls so different school to what i know i spose. and just dont want to waist my time or money so far is all
cheers

[JustenGT8]

Sorry mate but pushing shit uphill to get 300rwkw n/a It can be done but cubic dollars required, it'll be rubbish for street use, and need frequent rebuilds. Ed had a serious go and never cracked it. Closest I've seen work was in Formula car built locally and they didn't get near 300rwkw.

Straight up you need ITBs and the dual throttle won't work well. Twin 90mm TBs is a really bad idea and throttle control will be non existent.

If you lower your expectations to under 250rwkw you have a chance.

Lose the twin TB and go ITBs....can be done for a reasonable price from OBX
Kelford cams 282 duration or larger. Try and go slightly larger duration on the exhaust to tame the idling for street.
Rods, pistons, ARP fasteners everywhere etc as you have described.
A good ECU. SM4, V88, Haltech platinum etc
Dry sump won't hurt but not needed.

$10k approx (plus tuning) and you should have a ballsy n/a UZ

Of course, just bolt a turbo onto a stock UZ and have 320rwkw for less than half that cost

Sorry to rain on your plans, just trying to save you dollars and frustration

[cuttz]

Well the new motor might go charged then.
Plenums are staying as are the twins.
They flow 3 44 cfm per cylinder so will be fine. if the throttle response is to off the charts I'll make something up yo bring it on slower like a cam arm for the throttle

Drivable to will always go out the window this car will be driven on the street but in not my dedicated daily I have a 6l ute for that.

In saying that I don't want it to be a dog to drive so charging it may be a better option and will give me my base line for c/r and cams plus will work awesome with the intake...

Cost hasn't been a factor so far just dam time as I work 2 weeks on and 1 off.

So planing is something I've been big on and I have big plans for this one as it will be the last car I'll be building all out

[cuttz]

Also the ecu being used will be the street package from haltech p's 2000 comes with the dash so I don't have to fork out on a heap of guages