cant get my 18RG to idle below 3000rpm =(

[shewiththe18RG]

I took the carbies & manifold off a couple of months ago to remount them properly, seal them better etc...

I took my time & used every bit of patience I could muster up to make sure I sealed them properly without overtightening (I'm a notorious over-tightener)...

I used soft mounts, and sealed off the balance tube ports because the chokes on the webers are in the way. I haven't changed anything other than gaskets, but since remounting it all I cant get the idle below 3000. The idle screw is backed off completely & there is nothing physically stopping the throttle from returning to closed position easily & smoothly.

It's driving me mental. 2 weeks into quitting smoking makes it almost impossible for me to think rationally & figure out what's going on.

I didn't touch the balancing screw on the linkages, but could an imbalance between the two carbies make it rev psychotically?

If another vacuum leak is to blame I'm gonna......go postal.

The chokes are definately shut. Spindles, bearings, butterflies etc seem to all be moving smoothly & properly.

Help?!

Tiffany.

[ta22gt]

Did you reconnect the vacuum line to the brake booster from the manifold?
Nev

[shewiththe18RG]

Yep. And jiggled it around to ensure it was sealed.

[Norbie]

Definitely has to be some sort of vacuum leak to rev that high, a simple imblanace won't do it. Disconnect and block all external hoses (eg vac line to booster) to eliminate them, and if that doesn't get the idle down it's likely to be a leak in the carby-manifold or manifold-head seal. Spraying WD40 around the seal while the engine is running can help to identify exactly where it is.

[river]

Hi,

If another vacuum leak is to blame I'm gonna......go postal.

I think you're going to go postal. It sounds like a vacuum leak. Do as Norbie says. As you spray around the area, and the engine rpm will change when the WD40 hits the area(s) with the leak.

Also, if you have a flexible tube (like a fuel tube, etc) you can put one end to your ear and poke the other end around the manifold to see if you can hear the sucking of air (the leak).

seeyuzz
river

PS: Is the car drivable at all, 'cos I think you're local.

[shewiththe18RG]

I think I'd be able to drive it, just wasn't keen with the idle so high.

I'm always getting told off for over-tightening. It's either leaky or over-tightened. I really didn't want to defeat the purpose of soft mounts again this time by over-tightening! But maybe that's where the leak is? I borrowed Dad's stethoscope hose thingo to listen for leaks but I didn't find anywhere that I could blame.

I'll try the spraying trick when I get home.

Thanks heaps for the suggestions, I appreciate it!

[71TA22]

Not sure from your comments but have you completely disconnected the throttle cable or linkage from the carbs when setting the idle?

[brett_celicacoupe]

yeh check there is 1-2mm of freeplay in the cable

[Lambolica]

You should bend that big metal plate thing down just a fraction...

Cheers
Simon

[shewiththe18RG]

Stoopid cable.

[twentyEight]

I'm guessing by that comment, the cable didn't have enough slack in it?