Electric Water Pump Options

[Ben Wilson]

Sam - Yes, the sensor is on a set of pigtail leads. I epoxied the wires through the upper coolant hose so it all works out nicely.



Bear in mind that a FWD 4AG mounts the mechanical thermostat in an external housing on the gearbox. When you combine an electrical sensor in the head with natural thermocycling carrying the hot water to the top of the motor, I think that this is a much better setup.

Of course if electronics and sensors are so unreliable, we should all get rid of those dodgy EFI systems and go back to good old fashioned carbies.....

[Sam_Q]

I agree with you in your point (well the first one anyway) being that far in the engine wouldnt get much a chance to develop any hot spots before the natural convection brings the heat to the sensor. I think you did well with your setup.

[ToySprinta]

I'm planning on running mine off the haltech soon, with the pulses from startup, that way there still is a small amount of water flowing past the sensor as well and reducing the chance of thermal shock and hot spots.

[Billzilla]

I'm planning on running mine off the haltech soon, with the pulses from startup, that way there still is a small amount of water flowing past the sensor as well and reducing the chance of thermal shock and hot spots.

You still need to have the pump running, albeit very slowly, so keep the water circulating a little. Use a PWM output and make up a 3D table that has the pump running very slowly at low water temps, then increase the speed/voltage/pulse rate as the temp comes up.

[ToySprinta]

don't think that pulses would be sufficient?
But the rest is what we'll do

[Billzilla]

don't think that pulses would be sufficient?
But the rest is what we'll do

You give it an output with pulses slow enough to just keep the pump running slowly, to circulate the water.
The pump 'sees' the pulses as a voltage so the slower the pulses, the lower the effective voltage.
Kinda like fuel flow from an injector - the longer the pulse-width, the more fuel flows until you get a 100% duty cycle and you have full flow.

[Rallystanza]

I have fired of an email asking a few questions to Meziere about the controlling of their pumps. Will try to update with what I can.

[DeftAnesthetik]

came across this thread as i am looking into electrical cooling for my 4agte, could one not mount a sensor on the block by the oil pressure sensor? last i looked there is a hole tapped there for draining coolant. this would give you a better reading of the temp around the cylinders, would it not? any ways has anyone run one of the proform setups yet? im curious.

[Ben Wilson]

Sorry - missed this post.

Most temperature measuring is done at the head, not the block. You tend to worry about the temperature at the top of the motor..

[DeftAnesthetik]

Sam - Yes, the sensor is on a set of pigtail leads. I epoxied the wires through the upper coolant hose so it all works out nicely.



.

what thermo housing do you have there? Im building by using what i have around the garage (which is almost enough to build 3 running engines and lots of leftover spares) and the housing i have chosen is a little big and fouls the TPS on my quads, I was going to overcome this by epoxying up a set of tvis plates to gain the clearance but what you have there look like the charm i need in order to save me some trouble.

[Ben Wilson]

That housing is out of an AW11 4AGZE, not sure if later ZEs are the same.