GT35R on a 2JZ-GTE

[Norbie]

That's nothing, should have seen it before I got in there with conduit and tape!

[Mos]

Good to see it's so neat

And yes, bundling up the wires together can interfere in extreme cases. Shielding should only be connected on one end of the cable and should not be used to carry any sort of signal or current.

Finally got around to fishing out my notes...
Crank angle sensor pin 1 Black NE+, pin 2 White NE-.
Front Cam sensor pin 1 Black +, pin 2 White -.
Rear Cam sensor pin 1 Red +, pin 2 Green -.
(pin numbers are on the plug, if it's clean ).
(I actually don't know which one is G1 and which one is G2, will check later today).

Mos.

[Norbie]

Thanks Mos, I'll check that against what I've done.

The shielding is grounded at the ECU end only. One of the things I changed yesterday was moving the ground point to the same one used by the ECU; when the engine was running well they were separate. Do you think this could cause problems?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

That's nothing, should have seen it before I got in there with conduit and tape!

Slacker, mine had conduit and tape before it went anywhere near the car, and I just installed it like a factory loom.

[Mos]

Mine doesn't have conduit and tape (just cable ties), and it's been 6 months

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Is that vvti working?

[Draven]

Of course not Mos and I are in a race to see who can keep their vvti not working the longest

[Norbie]

Give your VVTi to me if you're going to waste it.

[Norbie]

Spent more time on the 2JZ today. It starts and runs, idle is pretty rough but it will sit on ~1000rpm OK, but when I crack the throttle it dies immediately. Foot off the throttle and it settles back to a rough idle. It's quite similar to what a 5M does with the airflow meter disconnected.

So, I checked th CAS wiring and it's all good. Tried moving the shielded cables away from everything else, made no difference. Tried moving the ground point for the shielding, made no difference. The tacho is fairly steady while the engine is running, not jumping all over the place like when my 18R-G was having CAS issues, so I'm starting to think it's nothing to do with that.

So I pulled the MSD-to-coil harness apart and checked everything was OK, checked continuity on all the wires, everything checked out. I pulled the spark plugs out, they were black and crusty as hell (it's hell rich when it runs) but after cleaning them it makes no difference.

Tried to check the ignition timing with a brand new timing light but the goddamn thing refuses to work. I'm thinking this is because the MSD sparks multiple times per firing event at low RPM, and this is confusing the timing light? I dunno, it worked OK on a friend's VL but won't flash at all on my engine. Does anyone have any idea how to get around that problem? What I'd really like is a timing light which can be triggered from the ECU directly instead of playing silly buggers with ignition leads, not sure if such a thing exists though. I really would like to check my ignition timing somehow, it would eliminate a lot of potential problems straight away!

If anyone has any other ideas about getting this engine to run I'm all ears. Not sure where to go from here.

[thechuckster]

norbie - does the MSD box have any dip switches to disable multi-spark at different rpms?

also: what is the TPS signal (as displayed in the haltech tuning software) doing when you move the throttle (maybe TPS wires are crossed)? and what is the MAP signal doing (in the software) when you touch the throttle? is map sensor line from manifold not elsewhere?

[Draven]

my vvti will be working by friday - you can't have it

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Glad to hear you've kinda got it working norbie...You'll be glad to know ive also joined the 2jz clan and bought myself an aristo cut.
Thought id raise it here as theres a lot of viewers - will JZX81 engine mounts allow me to sit the 2j straight into the mx83? I just dont want to fork out $300 to find out they dont fit...
also the donut and front piece of tailshaft - where can i get one of those puppies? neither my 1uz crown or 2jz aristo cuts didnt come with one....
thanks
Blake

[Norbie]

Well it turns out it was just running way too rich. I leaned out the fuel maps a bit and it runs way better now - in fact I took it for a quick drive to the servo and back. Obviously it's far from perfect but it's now running good enough to drive to the dyno.

Unfortunately I'm technically unemployed for the next few weeks so there will be no dyno tuning for a while. I'll use the time to do a proper tidy up and finish a few jobs I've been putting off for ages, like the new swaybars and adjustable camber. I'm hugely relieved though, I was starting to wonder if it would ever run properly!

[CrUZida]

I was going to suggest running pig rich, but I just assumed that if it was running rich enough to stall when you touch the throttle, then it would be spitting out plumes of black smoke from the exhaust.

[Norbie]

Yep, there was black smoke although I didn't think it was excessive. Kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat though.