1ggte front sump removal (on car) tips

[Pube]

Today I paid the price for having my engine sitting nice and low in my engine bay. Testing out my Gizzmo POS boost controller on a country road, I hit a dip in the road at high speed. My car bottomed out and my sump hit the road. I didnt take much notice at the time but I was only a minute from home. At home I noticed a small puddle of oil and then the crack.

So tomorrow, I will be getting dirty and removing the sump from my car. I havent even looked under the car, besides noticing the crack, so I dont know what is involved yet. Is it even possible to remove the sump, without removing the crossmember? Im just looking for a heads up before I get the shits

[love ke70]

i couldnt get my custom one off without dropping the crossmember...

wasnt hard though, just put a jack under the motor and life was dandy...

[hemi twofifteen turbo]

you could drain the oil, put a hose up the drain plug hole feeding some co2 or some inert gas and try weld it up?

If it were me i'd just get a thin steel plate, clean the area around the crack really well, cover the plate with sealant ("the right stuff" is awesome!) and self tap the plate over the crack... might seem (literally) like a band aid fix, but it will work fine. If you were really paranoid drill the ends of the crack with a small drill bit to stop it propagating...

[Pube]

Ill be at it tomorrow, I wil take some pics.

[The Real Roadrunner]

if you have an engine hoist just hold the engine up with that and you can drop the sump easy, other than that ENJOY.
cheers
linden

[JustCallMeOrlando]

what linden said was my plan of attack. worked a treat

[Pube]

still not looking forward to it!

[IN 05 NT]

ITS A REAL COONT!

you will need a sump splitter/gasket scraper tool, as the silicon is bloody strong,

you want to separate the sump from the baffle plate.....leave the baffle plate attached to the motor, dont separate them as one......its a real pain in the arse trying to get the sump and the plate back on in one go, (atleast it was in the 23...)

you need to pull the manual box braces off aswell, so you can get to the rear bolts

its a real shite job!.....shitload of 10mm bolts...

if the crack isnt that bad, id just weld it up.....its such a major pain of a sump....

blake

[celicapain]

what blake said. id go with jacking the motor up, dropping out front swaybar and crossmember and try not to break any of the 10mm bolts when your putting it back on, its just a crap job..

[love ke70]

and see if it seals up again properly, mine never did, the bolts are so piss small. my motors coming out and im tapping it all out for bigger bolts

[IN 05 NT]

so if pube started at 9am this morning...he should be finished punching furiously the underbody of his car now....lol

its even a shit job, doing it on an engine stand with the motor upside down!

blake

[Pube]

I managed to get the sump out today, surprisingly with no kicking and punching or grazed knuckles. I left the engine crossmember in place but un bolted the engine mounts from the crossmember and placed a piece of wood about an inch thick between the crossmsmber mount and engine mount. Also unbolted the front sway bar from the lower control arms and un bolted the brackets the support the bellhousing. Hardest part was splitting the sump from the block. The factory sealant works well, I recken it would last forever with the bolts removed! The damage to the sump wasnt too bad, its at the welder getting fixed and a plate welded to the damaged part. Also getting a fitting welded to one of the sides to be used for my air/oil separator drain, when I get to it.

[IN 05 NT]

so you left the baffle plate still on the motor?

pretty damn good factory sealant job ey....id agreed, you wouldnt need the bolts, lol

blake

[Pube]

I removed the baffle plate as I am getting a fitting welded to it for the air/oil separator drain. Its going to be a prick to put back on i recken. Im thinking I will put that on first by itself and put all the bolts on and let the sealant dry. Then the next day take off all the bolts and the baffle plate will stay glued to the block which will make life easier putting the sump on.