Donut output transmissions and tailshafts

**Mos** · 31-08-2006, 01:28 AM

Facing the same problem in a new conversion, I'd like to solve it in a different way this time. I'm pretty sure this hasn't really been covered before...

The output of the gearbox is the 3 prong rubber donut type, whereas the tailshaft is a conventional slip yoke.

On the 2JZ the problem was solved by rebuilding the gearbox with a slip yoke extension housing, but I don't want to do the same this time as I don't want to open up the box.

I've been told donut tailshafts have a slip joint at the centre bearing, but I've never seen it so it's hard for me to imagine how that looks - does anyone have pictures of such a tailshaft?
The donut will not fit in the tunnel without modifications to the shifter arm, so exploring other options before nuking the arm.

I've also heard of someone welding an adaptor to the 3 prongs that allows a uni flange (such as on a diff) to bolt up. Apparently this also required a slip joint somewhere in the shaft. (Whoever owns Paul Pyyvaara's 2JZ MA61, if it still has the factory auto, could you please take some snaps of your tailshaft

)

Has anyone tried replacing the 3 prong flange with something like a diff flange? The mounting is essentially the same (spline with a nut holding it against a bearing).

Other ideas, or developments of above ideas, highly appreciated

Have yet to talk to a tailshaft place as I'm not too sure what to be asking for...

A manual slip yoke box is also a solution but that's longer term...

Mos.

**Norbie** · 31-08-2006, 08:34 AM

Originally Posted by Mos

Other ideas, or developments of above ideas, highly appreciated

Have yet to talk to a tailshaft place as I'm not too sure what to be asking for...

Talk to a tailshaft shop, they'll know exactly what you're talking about. I recently looked under a Prado 4WD and they have the setup you describe (3 prong transmission output) and what looked like a slip joint built into the centre bearing, so tailshaft shops would be dealing with this sort of thing all the time.

I have a similar dilemma with my forthcoming 6-speed conversion so I've already spoken to a shop (Driveline Services in Brisbane) and they tell me it will be a walk in the park, they'll just adapt something from a late-model 4WD. Sorry I can't give you any more specific info, but take it to the pro's, they'll sort it out for you.

**wilbo666** · 31-08-2006, 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by Mos

Whoever owns Paul Pyyvaara's 2JZ MA61, if it still has the factory auto, could you please take some snaps of your tailshaft

Mos.

Phoenix01 on these forums has Pauls old car.

Still Auto atm I think, he is in the middle of changing it to manual.

Cheers
Wilbo

**Grega** · 31-08-2006, 10:36 AM

Mos
I had a VX Commonwhore LSD which used a 3 prong flange to bolt the rear of the tailshaft to the diff pinion gear - however the 3 prongs didn't bolt straight to the diff pinion gear - the pinion gear had another 3 prong flange with rubber insulator in the middle which was then attached to the tailshaft

Is there any reason why you couldn't use this flange (aside from bolt spacing being different perhaps) to bolt up to the back of the gearbox then bolt a uni to a solid tailshaft perhaps?
Just an idea...

**CLG** · 31-08-2006, 11:32 AM

Originally Posted by Mos

I've also heard of someone welding an adaptor to the 3 prongs that allows a uni flange (such as on a diff) to bolt up. Apparently this also required a slip joint somewhere in the shaft.

Correct - you'll still need some form of "adjustment" to account for the tailshaft arc movement as the car rises and falls on the suspension travel. failure to do so, will see increased stres placed on the whole driveline. Personally, I'd like to see the "slip yoke" furthest from the diff - this gives the uni's more time to compensate for differing angles (basically reduces degrees of inclination), therefore reducing power loss too.

**Mos** · 31-08-2006, 11:49 AM

Thanks for responses, guys,

Grega - I'm not sure there'll be an advantage to that (other than not needing a donut) because the prongs are almost as big as the donut and foul the shifter arm as well, but it's something to think about. Thanks!

Clint - I should clarify this is going into an IRS car, hence no arc of suspension travel. (Not saying there isn't movement).
Mos

**manny** · 31-08-2006, 11:53 AM

A few pics in these auctions to help you.

http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n43133236

http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e58843682

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f49165955

Commonly found behind auto 1UZ-FE Soarers, auto 2JZ-GTE Supras/Aristos, and 6 speed 2JZ-GTE Supras.

I went through this when swapping in a V160 into my Soarer. Fortunately the Supra's floorpan/chassis is based on the Soarer, so the front shaft was the right length for the bearing mount and the rear section just needed extending by 120mm for an OEM like finish.

Oh and save the pics to your PC before the auction closes if you want to refer to them in the future.

**CrUZida** · 31-08-2006, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by Clint

Correct - you'll still need some form of "adjustment" to account for the tailshaft arc movement as the car rises and falls on the suspension travel. failure to do so, will see increased stres placed on the whole driveline.

Except we live in a world of IRS, so the diff is fixed to the body.

**CLG** · 31-08-2006, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by CrUZida

When you stop living in the recalcitrant world of live axles, the rest of us live in a world of IRS, so the diff is fixed to the body.

Fixed for you!

**allmtr** · 27-07-2007, 12:30 AM

Originally Posted by Mos

On the 2JZ the problem was solved by rebuilding the gearbox with a slip yoke extension housing, but I don't want to do the same this time as I don't want to open up the box.

What is involved in this? What parts do I need?