F Series (MX13) diff into RA2* Celica

[MWP]

So i gather you are going to run FWD offset rims on the rear?
Anything else will pretty much put you outside the guards and/or go over the legal track width (IIRC in SA its +20mm over std).

[timbosaurus]

I'm still certain that the Mark II diff has been fitted into the rear of an RA23 without the mounts changed (Gordo's old white 1G beasty). The mounts were a bit wider, but there was apparently enough compliance in the trailing arm bushes to fit it.

Can anyone confirm this? Or am I just on acid?

[twentyEight]

Sounds like you're on the shrooms actually... JK...

It might have been an F Seires from a MA47 Supra as Norbie suggested above...

MWP, I'll have to check with the Vic regs, but I've measured the room I have left within my rear gurads, and I have just enough room to fit it with my Simmons which are 0" offset and are 8" rims... It may be a bees dick out, but that could be fixed with a slight flare of the guards...

[twentyEight]

Vic regs are:

The maximum allowable wheel track increase is:
* 25mm for a front axle or rear axles with independent suspension,
* 50mm for other rear axle types,
* Zero for front-wheel-drive vehicles with McPherson struts and negative scrub-radius
steering geometry or a diagonally split braking system.

http://www.toyo.com.au/TechInfoPDFs/...egulations.pdf

That makes me happy being that my track will only increase by 45mm...

[TA-022]

meh ... thats under owner certified regs.

Engineers can pass what they want if its deemed safe.

Plus the all you do is play with rim widths and offsets to retain track.

Cause remember track is tyre centre to tyre centre .... not hub to hub

[twentyEight]

Yeah I realise that... I would rather come within the owner certified regs also, just easier than making sure the Engineer will deem it to be safe...

[brett_celicacoupe]

I'm still certain that the Mark II diff has been fitted into the rear of an RA23 without the mounts changed (Gordo's old white 1G beasty). The mounts were a bit wider, but there was apparently enough compliance in the trailing arm bushes to fit it.

Can anyone confirm this? Or am I just on acid?

yeh acid.

could also have been a RA40 GT diff

[Lambolica]

Mine bolted Straight in?!?

The RA40 GT diff and T-18 diffs can go in as there is enough in the bushes but this causes some annoying clunks and grinds. Just butcher an old ra2* or 40 housing for the brackets and re weld them on the F Series.

Cheers
Simon

["Z" UTE]

Gordo's 1JZ-23 has an "F" from a MKII, and yes the brackets were removed, and RA23 brackets installed.

I bought a cheapie TA22, with a T18 arse end in it. The top control arm brackets bottomed out on the car before the bump stops, ouch. Swapped that out pretty swiftly.

FWD rims and offsets are easily found for the RA23/RA28. a bigger pain for the TA22's, as the TA22's are 20mm narower at the hips. On a TA22, you only ave 60mm from the hub face to the guard lip, when using the MKII arse end.

cheers Chuck.

[Lambolica]

Also when you run the wider diff withourmodifying the brackets the bolts for the upper trailing arms can hit the inner wheel arch on lowered cars or bad bottom outs.

Cheers
Simon

[timbosaurus]

Thanks Chuck, I thought you would have done the job properly

Must have been his white 1G '23 that I was thinking of.

Well, it sounds like it can be done.... it's just a bad idea

[sleepin22]

hey! you got the diff for $50. Quit with the shortcuts now

[mchieff]

$50 bucks - I paid $160 for mine :-(

[sleepin22]

did you also get discs on it?

[TA-022]

$100 ... but then $60 to have wrecker remove it .... oh how i tried .. thing was rusted in goood!