Hand brake on, chock all the wheels and attack it with that 6 foot bar you have.
Hey folks
Any ideas on how to remove the 30mm nut from the driveshaft (essentiall holds the upright to the hub/driveshaft) on my AE92?
I've hit it with RP7/WD40/Stitch0/rattle gun but no comey offy.
I havent tried heat (as yet)
I could crack it with a 6ft breaker bar - but it still "rotates" and hence won't come off?
Unless I do it with someone in car with foot on brake and car on ground?
Any ideas?
Hand brake on, chock all the wheels and attack it with that 6 foot bar you have.
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yeah I had one of these basically felt like it was welded on - ended up borrowing a 3/4 rattlegun and it came off. The best bet to start with is always to try and loosen them on the ground with someone standing on the brakes.
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plonka. yup. i reckon that will work
chris. i dun wanna put the thing into a geostationary orbit mate
psychofox ; last i tried car was on stands ; so ; gheyness applied.
now that its on the ground will get SWMBO to stand on brakes with handbrake on and see how we go.
thanks guys
Yeah, i must say the halfcut i did it with a rope tied to the towbar of another car around the dash bracket, and then attacked it with a 5m extended breaker bar. Took 2 Snap-On breakers to loose it (first one snapped just past the head)
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
yeah out the wheel back on,drop it on the ground, then have a crack,
had the same prob with a honda FULLY sick accord!
thats the plan, will see how we go.
the balljoint ain't that flogged ; but ; i've replaced one may as well replace the other![]()
yeah, take centre caps out of wheels, put car on ground, in gear, handbrake on, person in car holding the brakes on
get your longest breaker bar with pipe on the end and go for it
otherwise just get 3/4" rattle gun and make sure there is plenty of pressure behind it![]()
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i have the same problem with the ones in the rear of BMWs,
They have a locking ring that you cant actually get out, so you get a 1" and slowly increase the pressure until it straightens out the lock ring..
just make sure your going in the right direction can have some pretty funny results otherwise
hit it with a flat cold chisel in 3 places then tighten slightly then "hopefully" it will undo
get someone to apply the brakes and put something between two of the wheel studs so when rotated anti clockwise it fouls on the ground and stops the hub from turning (a large prybar or extension does well), the combination of that then get a nice long bit of pipe over the end of a breaker bar and you'll get it
normally just something between the studs is good enough, but on tough ones I like to use a combination of the two to lessen the risk of breaking a stud
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Originally Posted by Dale
yes dale and i have used this quiet a few times on our cars and it works really well
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Done it twice on my car and there a piece of piss (3 times if you count the passeneger side).
First time I had two people so we jacked the car up and stood on the brakes while the nut was undone.
The second time I took the wheel centre off and cracked with the car on the ground and the handbrake on. From memory I used a big long bar clamp over a ratchet as a breaker barThey really weren't that hard to do each time, and each time they were torqued correctly.
As far as putting something between the studs and ,letting it hit the groundI reckon there a good chance of bending studs if the nut is really tight. Depends on the lever length obviously, but I wouldn't reccommend it, specially when there are better ways of stopping the shaft rotating
thanks all for the feedback here ; i'll give it a shot this weekend (if i'm not working)
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