Just put this is the Ke thread so if anyone is interested or wanna help out,
Mic
My recommendation would be to change struts/hubs and not persist with the KE20/25 gear if you are planning on bigger wheels, spirited driving etc.
As i mentioned in the KE thread a few months back, I cracked both bearing shoulders on my KE25 hubs, they just weren't designed for larger wheels and a hard time - obviously.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Just put this is the Ke thread so if anyone is interested or wanna help out,
Mic
Maybe u just drive to hard Shane for the old rolla to deal with??
Mic
no, i think he has an important point. the stub axles on the early rollas are small..
if you plan to put a lot more force through them, it is wise to change to a stub axle that is stronger.![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
what does a ke55 liftback run on the front? The donor KE55 liftback that I have used at the wreckers for all my part swaps(tail shaft, rear axles and brakes, hubs, gearbox) have been pretty much bolt ons for the KE20 with at most minor modifications while providing an upgrade from stock. I might go down tomorrow morning and check it out. I dont speak technical terms or know specific measurements etc, I just go with what works and what fits.
you busy tomorrow simon? u wanna come have a look with me? see what other goodies we can find...
on a similar note, I actually pulled the brake booster and master from the same ke55 because I found that the whole unit fits in the ke20 engine bay(ie: easily clears the strut tower). The shaft also fits through the standard hole in the firewall so you dont need to go chopping it up. All that needs to be done is to make a bracket going from the 2 holes which bolt the standard master to 4 holes for the ke55 booster
The only issue I have yet to work out is where to get a vaccum line from as I am running su's and not the standard manifold![]()
I've actually got to head down there for Wagonist and grab some parts for him...Originally Posted by sleepin22
I'm thinking about 10:30 if that's not too early for you...
sounds good man, you wanna swing past mine or you want to meet there?/
I'll swing past... You practically are there anyway!
sweet hopefully I'll have the rolla tuned and road tested by then if it doesn't bloody rain again! Oh and simon I should be recieving those rims on monday![]()
KE55 has 218x12.5mm disc, same disc as KE70. and thicker than KE30 disc (218x10mm), which are bigger than KE20 disc at 200x10.
piston diameter is the same afaik, so the actual stopping power between KE30-KE70 should be same.
KE30/55 should bolt up, and some KE70 backing plates also bolt up (mine did) but not all.
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
so in theory, ke55 front and rear brakes combined with the ke55 booster/master on a ke20 would considerably improve the braking? by how much you think? 30-40%?/ not factoring in an engine conversion.
no.Originally Posted by sleepin22
the KE55 disc is only 10% more diameter, so the actual braking increae in performance will be 10%.
however, you may need less pedal pressure to operate the brakes... but you are still only getting 10% better braking..
10% is not much.
however, going from KE10/20 brakes to Ke70 brakes, i did find them better overall...
not having shit brake pads (or metal kings) also makes a big difference
it is still worth it if you ge the parts cheap, and you are not planning to drive too fast. you can lock the wheels.. but i like the feel of unboosted.. so.... meh
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
lol, I was just under the impression that a booster made a big difference, and added with slightly bigger brakes front and back it would be considerable...
1. braking capability is mostly from the brake disc diameter = leverage
2. brake caliper and master cylinder sizes and pedal ratio set the brake pedal travel and effort.
3. booster reduces effort and feel
4, braking capability is mostly from the brake disc dimaeter = leverage
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
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