ST205 Rebuild input needed

[gee120]

I've been gone a long while just over 3yrs and recently got back and got my st205 back on the road all was good, so i though. But over the last 2 weeks i sprung some pretty bad oil leaks which granted was expected as the car was garaged for so long im not surprised the seals have gone hard etc etc.
Ok just change the seals you say, if only it were that simple the engine has done about 193,000 km and is getting pretty tired a recent compression test recently showed figures of 140psi in cylinders 1, 2 and 4 and 75psi in No3 that was the dry test results. Wet results were 170-175 in 1, 2 and 4 and 100psi in No3. Ive known for a while it was bad i just didnt know how bad so the rebuild is inevitable. I have put togther a small list of stuff i will need for the rebuild, some parts i have but most not.

Already have
Aria Pistons & rings
ARP Head studs
ARP Main studs
ARP Rod Bolts
oem water pump
oem oil pump

Still need
3SGTE ACL competition main and rod bearing kit
GATES blue timing belt
Head gasket (undecided)
Full gasket set
Auxillary Belt Tensioner Bearing

I am most likely going to get my rods shot peened and everything will get balanced by the engineer. Granted a head reco will be done at the same time and im thinking a small port and polish.
Im sure ive left something out either parts wise or something i may need to do or have done so please help me fill in the gaps hoping to be able to start this build in about 2 weeks or so maybe i'll lucky to get it done and run in b4 dyno day but not gonna count my chickens just yet.

Cheers,
Gary

[Mr Revhead]

just wondering... why a gates belt? thats not one of those "racing" ones is it?

id add new cap and leads to that

[gee120]

its stronger than the oem and alot cheaper than HKS which was my other option.both cap and leads were replaced about 15,000km ago i have magnecor leads in it atm from Thundercords

[YGT04A]

what about getting the head and block decked?

[Joshstix]

Get a full toyota gasket set. Just use the stock metal head gasket that comes in the set.

I'd look at getting a set of Eagle conrods, they're not much more money than getting the stock rods closed honed polished and shot peaned but they're a hell of a lot lighter than the stock rods.

I wouldn't bother too much with porting the head unless you have plans of making big power some time in the future. If that is your plan I'd advise going for 1mm oversize valves when you get the head reconditioned they are a big flow improvement for not a lot of money. Also if you're planning big power in the future bigger cams will be called for so you might as well get some upgraded valve springs in there while you've got it apart, Performance Springs are a Toymods sponsor and have a spring to do the job.

[Joshstix]

I forgot to mention, I hope those pistons are at least 86.5mm because it's going to have bore damage in number three from the flame front going down the side of the broken piston.

You'll also want to get a set of ARP head studs.

[Classique71]

gary ? long time no see mate ?

You still chasing numbers with your 205 ??

[gee120]

Josh, i was debating getting eagle rods just was going to speak to the engineer about what the shotpeening & etc was gonna cost and figure out the diff if cost wasnt a big difference i was gonna get the eagles.
The plan for big power is there but not in the very immediate future so thats why i was only going for the mild port and polish on the head while i was getting the reco done.
There was a long term plan in place for a really big build but i dont have the cash for that atm so im gonna sorta stage it out as much as possible, basically im gonna focus on the bottom end and just rebuild the head for now and when it comes time that i will end up doing the cams, gears and springs atleast that can be done without removing the engine. I just wasnt planning on having to pull the engine out this early so im trying to make do as much as i can during this build.

Forgot to mention the arp head studs i have those already. And im most likely gonna go for a hks twinplate clutch unless anyone knows a good bang for buck twin alternative.

And im also trying to track down a power fc.

Yeah Classique i spent some time overseas so i pretty much dissapeared off the face of the planet for a while. Cant bring myself to let the car go so why not go for the big numbers.

[Kyoto]

Cant bring myself to let the car go so why not go for the big numbers

A man after my own heart!

Have you looked into the 2.2l stroker kits offered by ATS in the United States? Might not be that much more than a regular rebuild, I've heard them mention somewhere they rarely bother with 2l rebuilds now, perhaps the cost isn't alot more (save for freight which would most prolly kill that idea!)

DOh.

[Joshstix]

There is no reson to get a stroker kit from the US. It is only an offset ground 5S crank and a set of pistons with the correct pin height. Actually you also need to change the PCD on the flywheel for the smaller spacing on the 5S crank.

[gee120]

I had some pretty in depth discussions with a whole lot of ppl about this years ago back then it just wasn't feesable cost versus return. Granted prices may be alot better now but as you said shipping for a heavy kit like that would certainly kill the deal not to mention i am on a bit of a budget just because i wasn't really ready to do this rebuild right now but with how poor the engine condition is right now i kinda have no choice.

[wagonist]

Forgive me if my info is incorrect, but I've been told that its now not a good idea to get the head ports polished. Ported & smoothed, yes, but not polished.
The theory being that the slight roughness keeps the air/fuel mixture turbulent, keeping the fuel suspended in the air more uniformly.

Is this correct or have I been sold a load of BS?

BTW, good to have you back Gary

[Mr Revhead]

its stronger than the oem and alot cheaper than HKS which was my other option.both cap and leads were replaced about 15,000km ago i have magnecor leads in it atm from Thundercords

never seen an OEM one break by itself.... always caused by something. ie failed tensioner etc, which will kill a gates one just as fast.

save ya $$ get genuine, their warranty is also a lot better!
those gates racing ones are a rip

[The Witzl]

never seen an OEM one break by itself.... always caused by something. ie failed tensioner etc, which will kill a gates one just as fast.

save ya $$ get genuine, their warranty is also a lot better!
those gates racing ones are a rip

Gary, also email Mr Revhead for all your Toyota parts needs.
There is no better choice

[gee120]

Hey Steve thanks.
Cool Revhead its food for thought
Thanks Karl i'll drop him a line see how i go