4AGZE Oil Type

[30psi 4agte]

FWIW
I used to use valvoline Syn power 10w 50 which i was quite happy with.

Now im using nulon's full synthetic 15w 50... As far as im concerned its the best oil i have used !! and i have tried heaps of em.

I dont like mobil 1 at all. Its far too thin for my engine ............ but hey thats just my 2c worth.

[Vios-GT_07]

10W-40 Castrol Magnatec gets my vote.. big fan of castrol.. have an engine at home that burns about 1 liter out of 7 liters in the sump, and with castrol in there, it barely loses 100ml... hence reinforcing my trust with castrol.. my 4A runs magnatec atm as i don't know what's been used before i got it.. and the engine is fairly newish, has good compression.. but i don't see the point of using fully synthetic as even though the engine is "new", it would still be over 10 years old.. and using the magnatec 10W40 it doesn't lose a drop, is smooth at idle and minimal vibration when revved till redline (which is at least once every full tank).. 10,000 kms and 3 services later it's still fantastic..

[Corvid]

I can't see the logic for not using fully synthetic oils. They are better than semi synth - we're not talking about a pushrod 253 holden V8 here.

This is my experience of fully synthetic oils. I had a AE93 SX. I bought it at 120,000kms. I used 5W50 Mobil 1. I did oil changes every 5,000-8,000 kms with a new filter every time. It did another 230,000 hard kilometers until my sister drove it with a stuck thermostat - result cracked head. When I pulled the head off I could see the original hone marks in the block. Make of that what you will but I have used fully synthetic oils ever since.

Im an old schooler with The_wiltz on this topic. I think if you have a "used" 4A anything then id be running a Semi Synth, The full synth oils are bloody thin. And as for hone marks etc. Ive just stripped my 4AGZE down and i gave that poor motor HELL! and i used penrite in it for the whole time i had it, 200,000ks later of my right foot and guess what. No lip in the cylinder bores! and i can still see the Hone marks! I couldnt believe it...
Also not to forget, at the end of the day all of us change oil at least every 5000k's.. I think if your using a decent reputable brand you should be right. My motor had over 300,000ks on it, original build by toyota and it was still running when i stripped it down (albeit a little smokey!)

[inertia]

Using Motol 4400 in my gze, it saw one dyno day and within 2 weeks the engine was making a nice tappety noise when idling warm.

I'm back on the pentrite hpr10 or 15. that noise is gone.

Not blaming the oil, but i'm not going to use it again just in case. IIRC it was the exact same weight/temp range as the penrite I am using.
'
My gze has done over 150,000k's though, possibly a lot more!

[psychofox]

I think most people are confusing viscosity with synthetic vs mineral oils. A 15W40 oil in synthetic or mineral will have the same viscosity. That's what the numbers mean.... Most synthetics have a lower Winter viscosity as they flow better at low temps, which is good for start up, but at temp are the same viscosity as a normal mineral oil. This is one of the advantages of synthetic oils - another advantage is that they are more stable at high operating temps than mineral oils and generally have better film shear strength (at a given viscosity) than mineral oils. All this is good for your engine and the only negative is cost. Most differences between different manufacturer oils these days are in the additive packs that the oil manufacturers put in to meet the various specifiactions, such as API, ACEA, JASO, etc. But as most new oils meet the latest specs (API SM, ACEA A3/B3) then the performance of most oils is fairly similar.

[mojo_type]

i use 10W-40 Castrol Magnatec in my gze ........ ftw