Reward Offered - Help me diagnose a Clunking/Knocking noise from Satan

**Talasas** · 10-01-2008, 11:04 PM

For the record, I shut my similar sounding problem up when it made itself more apparent about a month later. It was the weirdest thing too, first I lost brake pressure (scary to say the least) and then the sound got louder when I turned. Upon closer inspection of the brakes, I noticed one of the small clips retaining the brake pad had comes off and lodged itself between the rotor and caliper, scoring a nice mark into my rotor.

I put the clip back in and the sound went away and my brake pressure came back (makes sense). The other clonking sound I had was a loose swaybar mount and a loose control arm bolt. All done and fixed.

**Grega** · 11-01-2008, 06:21 AM

mmm
i can replicate the clunk i get by kicking the tyre.
it almost sounds like the disc is loose on the hub (but its not) kind of sound
talasas i like your idea of teh clip problem, might be the pad slopping around the caliper housing?

**o_man_ra23** · 12-01-2008, 12:42 PM

Check the calliper bolts, I forgot to tighten one side on the missus's excel and we had a similar clunking sound. Tightened the calliper and went away.

**Grega** · 12-01-2008, 12:49 PM

o_man_ra23. will do. ta
(pretty sure they're OK but you never know aye.

**Grega** · 13-01-2008, 10:05 AM

OK my caliper bolts were fine.
good suggestion there owen.

as i was under there y'day undoing the nut from hell and replacing my balljoint, i thought, mmm, lets have a closer look

i think i may have found my clunk.
how much driveshaft play is acceptable

excuse the crudity of the video, but, with the bolt done up ; i have a bit of travel in my driveshaft. you can hear the clunking too

http://www.ae92.info/other/MOV02621.MPG

**o_man_ra23** · 13-01-2008, 11:40 AM

new driveshaft time then?? Go to a driveshaft specialist to purchase them, they will be cheaper than any auto shop.

**Grega** · 13-01-2008, 12:01 PM

yep, reckon so. more freakin money on this thing

**Talasas** · 13-01-2008, 12:34 PM

No that seems to be a pretty normal amount of driveshaft play, remember that the shaft has to be of variable length to allow the steering angle to change (since the wheels don't pivot about joint itself).

To test the ball joint, turn the steering wheel to full lock to one side, grab the wheel that's making the noise and try and move it with you hands back and forth. If it clonks that's your problem, if not you're fine.

I should also add for the record that a very common one (often misdiagnosed) on the AE92s of this age is worn steering arms. Grab the steering tie rod and try and move it back and forth, there should be no slop in it at all. If it makes a noise (then it should also make noise going over low speed bumps) then check crown nut on the steering knuckle holding the rod to see if it's tight. If it is and you still have a knock then it needs overhauling.

**Grega** · 14-01-2008, 10:05 PM

I should also add for the record that a very common one (often misdiagnosed) on the AE92s of this age is worn steering arms. Grab the steering tie rod and try and move it back and forth, there should be no slop in it at all. If it makes a noise (then it should also make noise going over low speed bumps) then check crown nut on the steering knuckle holding the rod to see if it's tight. If it is and you still have a knock then it needs overhauling.

BINGO.
the noise comes from the passenger side.
there is travel in the actual steering arm - the arm that comes out of the rack, not the actual tie rod (the tie rods are brand new)
interestingly the clunk that i get when i move it by hand is the same one i hear when driving

where to get a reco rack from? any recommendations in vic?

**allencr** · 15-01-2008, 02:36 AM

Originally Posted by Grega

BINGO.
the noise comes from the passenger side.
there is travel in the actual steering arm - the arm that comes out of the rack, not the actual tie rod (the tie rods are brand new)

Arm that comes out of the rack??????? The only thing coming out of a rack is the rack, a gear/long rod with teeth cut into it. There is a fixed 'arm' on the suspension that the steering connects to. Tie rods are two pieces, inner joint with tie rod and the tie rod end that connects to the arm with a tapered bolt.
The passenger side gets the beating from the road edge & turning tighter corners.
How much play? up & down and forward & backward, at rack & wheel.
It can still drive well for a long time if it doesn't affect your sensibilities/pride.
Clean it up, don't wipe dirt further into it, pack in some grease, it'll go a long time.
If there is abnormal tire wear that isn't caused by balance or shock or something bent or coming apart, or badly pulling to one side with heavy breaking, then I'd leave it alone until it really has some problem.
The original problem is often much less then results of a bad fix.