i would look at a garret gt2860r if you want quick response.200kwatw should be doable with one of these.
cheers
linden
planning on doing a turbo upgrade to my st185 gt4 in a few months and wondering what you guys think about my ideas..
at the moment car has aussie dump pipe and 3 inch exhaust, mhg, and k&n panel filter..
i was thinking of getting a kkr330 turbo for it because they are cheap and seem to have a good rep .. and running it at what the top mount can handle which seems to be up to 12psi
basically my goal is for it to come on boost early and punchy (like the early wrx's) i hate the ct26's lag
has anyone done a similar turbo upgrade without fmic, engine management and other engine mods??
i would look at a garret gt2860r if you want quick response.200kwatw should be doable with one of these.
cheers
linden
i'm not looking for 200awkw.. maybe max 150awkw, what i'm looking for is something that will spool up quick and is punchy.. garrett is too exxy for me i thought kkr because they are in my price range and seem to be ok quality from what iv'e read.. also i don't want to have to put a fmic or upgrade anything else
danny I did a rebuild similar to what you're looking to do, and the CT20b turbo was going to be the turbo for my ride, until I realised that the seals were shot.that was pretty dynamic off the mark as well, but the only thing I could do that was 'affordable' at the time was to grab a CT26 and hi-flow it... wanted a replacement CT20b but they're just not out there when you need them, and a turbo place won't rebuild them. they prefer to go steel wheel over ceramic.
but I also decided to have a bit of power spread out throughout the rev range too. off the mark is great, but it doesn't last long, and it's peaking boost by about 2500rpm.
if the kkr has the right adapter for the TMIC position then it's probably a good choice. did you have anything else planned like fuel delivery upgrades, etc. or is this just a cheap fix-me-up job? is there anything wrong with the CT26 you have now?
the ct26 i have now is fine its an oz spec and has side to side play, spins freely and blows no oil.. boost comes at about 3 grand, i also had an ebay manifold which i'll put on when the engine is done.. i hope this will help it spool up a little quicker.. maybe i should wait till i fix the bhg before i decide.. does a bhg drain a lot of power away??
yeah and didn't want to spend anything on other upgrades although i noticed a hks fcon on ebay today whcih is bolt on which might be a possibility depending on the advantages..
Yep i have put a Garrett GT2817RS on my car (~400hp turbo) with the W/A top-mount, std ecu, std motor.Originally Posted by danny2
At just 10.5psi of boost i have gotten 143awkw, the difference to the CT26 is huge! it pulls so much harder in the top end, and gives you a bigger rush then the CT26...but comes on a good bit later
I am also planning to put a KKR380 on another 3S-GTE soonish using the std manifold with an adaptor on it, expecting to get similar sorta power gains, and probably slightly better spool.
and yes i would fix the BHG before anything else, it will cost you power and could potentially wreck your motor.
Cheers
Nathan
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
CT26's arent laggy dude. Especially with a topmount intercooler.
*hearts* his 4age powered KE70 Panelvan!
Hi, Im enthused about corollas..
my hi-flowed CT26 (56mm comp wheel, housing bored out 10k") kicked in at about 2300-2500rpm and boosted happily to about 5000 or so @ ~14Psi, but the response was quite adequate and not laggy at all.
Id deffinatly get onto the BHG before anything. Then go onto upgrading.. You dont want to put more pressure on it until its fixed..
Cheers,
Pisso.
yeah i'll get the head gasket done 1st and then look into it.. anyone know if its worth putting a mhg and arp studs if i'm going to run max 12psi? i've read that mhg needs head and block to be perfectly flat.. has anyone put a mhg without getting theur head/block machined?
surely you'd do this if you were to replace the HG in the first place? best to go the TRD HG. even just check that the head isn't warped at the very least. if it hasn't been run all that hard then you'll probably be safe. for 12Psi you could even use factory studs... the engine is built for teh boost, and as such Toyota would allow for this when m/f'ing the engine. the ST205 donk is set for 10.75Psi (Aussie homologated 1994 model) and I've seen a stock engine run past 17Psi without issues. (yes I'm looking at you Gary Georgiou)
The same Garry who has a thread about rebuilding his 3S because cylinder number three has half as much compression as the rest? That seems like an issue to meOriginally Posted by Andrew162
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