just for a challenge prove me wrong rod and ill give you your stainless dumps for free and ill even fit them for you .![]()
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haha let the dynoing and track testing begin![]()
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sorry rod![]()
reread my statement i didnt say it has nothing to do with drivetrain losses as it does, probably 1% could be more if badly aligned. your arms are adjustable for a couple of reasons
it does not however have anything to do with squat/antisquat characteristics of a vehicle as this is all done on rotational forces ie: torque , and the arm angles, then factor in cg of car , instant centres and a whole load of other shite.
ladder bars are good and simple for drag racing but are a shit to drive on the street or a circuit. they are set and forget to which is easy.![]()
search macdonald bros racing they do all sorts of setups and will probably be able to steer you in the right direction.![]()
the quickest 12a in the country (maybe world) runs one of there ladder setups and the guy put it in in his garage in a weekend, there that easy.![]()
just for a challenge prove me wrong rod and ill give you your stainless dumps for free and ill even fit them for you .![]()
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haha let the dynoing and track testing begin![]()
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Well......... in regards to my comment about pinion angle and the fact that Road Runner (linden isnt it?) does this for a living ,I thought i should look into it a bit further to find out if i was right or wrongSo I did some searching on the net.
I could find plenty of info saying that pinion angle "will" effect traction But in linden 's defence ....... I came across this.
Id suggest everyone have a read as what is being said here i tend to agree with the most over all the other stuff i read.
http://buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm
I believe i stand corrected!
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
thanx dude i appreciate very much.
so how bout some rep hehehe
So how come in my ke30 corolla with leaf springs, i had a T-series diff with the pinion angle all wrong and the tailshaft kept hitting the floor. I also was getting some hardcore axel tramp too.
Insert a new Borg Warner Diff with pinion angle adjusted and the tailshaft no longer hits the floor, no axel tramp, and excellent 1/4 mile times?
Linden,
You have been hanging out with Mos to longAnd I enjoy a good twist on the facts to make people think
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The pinion angle is important for launch/cruise etc because the wrong angle causes other problems, not so much the angle itself. Pinion angle itself may not alter squat, but a poor pinion angle will cause other problems that effect your launch and grip as a result of effecting power delivery. The most common areas are underbody clearance and Unijoint angle. If the diff slams into your floor/trans tunnel it will effect your launch![]()
Pinion angle in relation to its effect on the opperational angle of the Uni joints is a worthwhile area of attention. In an extreme case poor pinion angle will cause unijoint failure and rotational binding of the unicups (which would effect your times I recon) But lets face it, most people are not that retarded. However it takes less effort to rotate a universal joint that is runnning true than one on a heavy angle. Think of when you use the unijoint extension on your socket set, the bigger the angle the more effort it takes to undo the nut ot bolt. For the ideal pass you want your diff sitting level under load/acceleration. This points the joints under the least amount of stress and thus limiting drivetrain loss. Most vehicles are set up to acheive this at cruise so under load/launch.acceration the pinion angle winds up and back (hence why they slam the floor)
Oh and yes I know you knew that but I'm a picky bastard sometimesPinon angle doesn't effect squat but it can effect your time
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1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
ROD
you could sell ice to eskimos and you would bore them to death in doing so![]()
remember in BILLY MADISON where he has to do a speach as part of the decathlon and the principal (WHOSE WIFE IS A DIRTY TRAMP) told billy that EVERYONE IN THIS ROOM IS NOW DUMBER for listening to him (after his puppy who lost his way speech) .
well guess what I FEEL RETARTED![]()
i should charge you DOUBLE for making me read that crap(that my 5yo daughter would probably already know
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if anyone on this forum had there iq tested before reading that, please get another and confirm results.
cuzzo what exactly did you change pinion angle and what else, the tramp can be caused by said shaft hitting floor then bouncing back off ( cycle then continues ) causing the diff to hop. once rectified the hop would cease yes .
Well a new diff was cut n shorterned and the leaf mounting plates were re-welded. The diff place did it for me, but im guessing on the diff jig, the diff was rotated slightly downwards and the leaf platforms re-welded.
But im sure you know that already......................
Cool thanks man! What kinda $$$ are we looking at for new upper and lower arms?Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
What are the pros/cons between keeping the stock geometry and playing with arm lengths compared to say doing a ladderbar or an after market 4 link setup?
I'll chase up the parts and pm you a price. Can you measure the lengths and tell me the centre to centre length of the bolts and if you do or don't want them adjustable. I can probably fold up the tail shaft sections (and c-sections if you want to run longer control arms on the top) and post them to you if needed.
Thats awesome - thanks man. I will try to do it this arvo and get back to you!Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
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