TA22 rear end setup

[4SFED]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anybody has done any mods to the rear end of a TA22 - things such as coilovers, ladderbars or an aftermarket 4 link conversion?

I have the ass end out of mine at the moment and am seeing a few things that i am thinking about changing.

Firstly, due to the ride height of my car in street trim, the angle that the links are on (especially the top link) is pretty severe and *looks* like it will start binding soon, so i am toying with the idea of removing them and going ladder bar/modified 4 link, so i would love to see any pics of any TA22's that have had this done, or hear from anybody that has played with it. Whilst i am at it i was thinking about putting some coilovers, but i notice there is very little room in the strut tower to hold them. Anybody done this?

Also due to the ride height i run my car at, the tailshaft is hitting the trans tunnel pretty bad on the flange that joins to the diff, so i need to raise the trans tunnel at the back a few inches. Anybody know who can roll some new metal that will allow me to replace the trans tunnel to make more clearance in Melbourne?

[Forcefed6]

As set of adjustable top arms will help the clearance to the floor a little. They will also help to bring the pinion angle down a little, which in turn will increase traction.

This is given that the bracket on the diff are in the same spot as the standard diff.

[4SFED]

Yep, i am 99% sure all the diff mounts are in the same spot as the origional diff mounts were welded to the hilux.

For the top arm, i dont think it is so much a clearance issue to the floor (although i will check that again), but more that the arm is on a pretty severe angle compared to the lower arm (which is almost horizontal) and although i am not 100% sure it will actually cause issues, it just dont *look* right. The least it will do is start to rotate the diff as the suspension compresses some more as it is way past horizontal... and i am thinking more and more about getting the ass end just right for when i hit the strip....

[Classique71]

Tim! where have you been lurking all this time !!

Check out jamies GTR rear end into ta22 for the ultimate Ta22 rear end conversion .. It compliment everything else you have on yours very nicely!

Lots of work but easily capable of handling anything thrown at it .

PS : Great to see you posting back on here - Yours is still one of the best known early celicas out there - and really deserves to be shown on here !

[TheToyman75]

Tim,

I have had a similar problem with my RA28. I have fitted adjustable upper and lower diff arms which have prevented the tailshaft scrubbing the tunnel even tho my car is quite low.

I am going to have the lower arm mounts dropped lower at the hilux diff end to give them jmproved angle on launch.

I elongated the bolt holes on 2 sets of urethane bushes inside 6000k's so I have replaced the lower bushes at the diff end with heim joints. If the top arms still flog the bushes out I will replace the diff end of teh top arms with heim joints too.

This has really stiffened up the rear and whilst they have added some noise and vibration its a small price to pay.

[The Real Roadrunner]

hate to be a pest but changing pinion angle has absolutely NOTHING to do with better launch or grip, HOWEVER it is when you change angles and length of arms that you can get better grip/launch capabilities. lower arms should be lower at the diff than the body so when you accelerate the reaction drives the body up and the diff down ie increases anti-squat. The top arms factory are on shit angles due to a seat being in the way If you dont want the seat, fit the same length arms as the lowers and have them sitting about 6" higher on the body than the lower arms. If you can make this height adjustable you can also get more grip the lower you go at the front.

[4SFED]

Tim! where have you been lurking all this time !!

Check out jamies GTR rear end into ta22 for the ultimate Ta22 rear end conversion .. It compliment everything else you have on yours very nicely!

Lots of work but easily capable of handling anything thrown at it .

PS : Great to see you posting back on here - Yours is still one of the best known early celicas out there - and really deserves to be shown on here !

Oh i have been around a fair bit lately!

I have been following Jamies thread with great interest and his work has been a true inspiration, but its definitely not the direction i want to go in with the rear end. I am looking to "optimize" what i have (hilux diff on standard celica mounts/arms) and hoping not to chop stuff up too much

I guess you havent seen this thread that i created last week for my Celica in Members Rides....

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23257

[4SFED]

Tim,

I have had a similar problem with my RA28. I have fitted adjustable upper and lower diff arms which have prevented the tailshaft scrubbing the tunnel even tho my car is quite low.

I am going to have the lower arm mounts dropped lower at the hilux diff end to give them jmproved angle on launch.

Oh this sounds great! Please please tell me you have some pics of these mods!!! Who did your new upper and lowers arms?

[4SFED]

The top arms factory are on shit angles due to a seat being in the way If you dont want the seat, fit the same length arms as the lowers and have them sitting about 6" higher on the body than the lower arms. If you can make this height adjustable you can also get more grip the lower you go at the front.

Exactly what i was thinking - the lower arms dont seem too bad but due to the floor pan / seat location etc the top arms really are a serious compromise on performance when you start really asking alot out of the rear end - such as trying to put 400RWHP to the ground.

I dont run a rear seat at all and have spent a long time just looking at the top arm location and how it would be so much nicer to to just countersink them inside the car and get them closer to equal length. I have also looked at the option of removing the top link all together and running an adjustable ladderbar setup only utilizing the bottom front mount. These are the decisions i am stuck with at the moment, but i may just get the car back on the road after the current round of mods (raising trans tunnel to stop the tailshaft tearing the floor out, brake changes etc) and see what its like. If i still dont like it then it will have to come apart again.

Which brings me to another question, can anybody suggest a engineering/chassis workshop in melbourne that can mod the trans tunnel for me?

[Classique71]

found the thread ! Cheers !

[30psi 4agte]

Havent seen this car around in ages!!

One thing you can do for the trans tunnel side of things is to cut the part thats rubbing out of another body leaving excess down the sides of the tunnel and then weld it into yours but sitting up another two inches. You then cut the original tunnel from underneath out leaving only the newly welded in raised section.
It will also still look fairly factory.

I had the same prob with my car so i cut the floor out and welded in a raised box section but now its hitting further down the tail shaft....similar to where yours is so im about to do what i have said above.

[30psi 4agte]

hate to be a pest but changing pinion angle has absolutely NOTHING to do with better launch or grip, .

Hate to tell you but that is bullshit! pinion anlge does make a difference to the way a car grips and bites into the ground.

Why do you think guys with leafspring rear ends and no control arms put wedges under their diff to change pinion angles ?

[Forcefed6]

I was wondering the same to that comment.

Although, as I am not 100% familiar with the rear suspension setup in a celica (it's been a while) this may be the case, but I know with a lot of other cars changing of the pinion angle does help.

[TheToyman75]

Tim,

I only have a fairly dodgy pic of the arms online at the moment.



The top arms are a Noltec Item and are still available but not quite the right length. I beleive the new ones they stock are too long and require cutting down. The lower arms with the Heim joints were made by Linden at Roadrunner Fabrications (The Real Roadrunner) The lower arms also run the KE70 Corolla bushes at the chassis end instead of the Celica bushes as they are the same width but a smaller diametre to further remove the amount of give in the urethane. All I had to do was change the centre bolt sleeve to the 14mm sleave instead of the KE70 12mm sleave. This required no mods to the bush itself as they interchange. They use the SuperPro Bushes. While these were out I had Linden reinforce the mounts on the body and the diff by welding a 2mm washer on the outside of each bolt hole to prevent the holes from elongating under load at launch.

For my TA22 I will be doing upper and lower arms with the Heim joints and KE70 Bushes and since I don't have a back seat either I will probably remountthe top arms into the cabin space. The tunnel on the TA22 I already had raised at the rear when the floor was sectioned for the exhaust



Linden,

I think you had a brain fart re your Pinion angle comment It can make quite a big difference to not only launch dynamics but also drivetrain loss due to resistance on the unijoints when opperating at excessive angles. Its by no means as important as the angles of the arms but ever bit counts.

[The Real Roadrunner]

Original Message:
Hate to tell you but that is bullshit! pinion anlge does make a difference to the way a car grips and bites into the ground.

Why do you think guys with leafspring rear ends and no control arms put wedges under their diff to change pinion angles ?


Reply:
Pinion angle is only changed to stop unis binding so how bout you do some real research instead of shouting your mouth off first!!

Wedges are used so when it does torque up the pinion angle is still reasonable and stops the shaft hitting the floor.
If you use leaves you should really use kaltrax and then set up the air gap to suit.

But then again what would i know i only do this for a living!!!

Back onto ta22 probs i can organise some arms for you if you want just let me know.