beams redtop idle too high

[aw11man]

As some might know ive just installed beams redtop into the aw11.

Everything seems prettey good accept that the idle is way too high upto around 3000rpm, i know after the ecu is reset it will be higher for a while but this is beyond that. It starts off at about 1500-2000 then as it warms up it gets progressivley higher amost like a choke being stuck on. I can cruise at 60 without any accelerator application, and the throttle is not stuck open.

I got a code 12 and 42 so i hunted around and found a broken wire on the cam position sensor clip which i just had fixed and reseted ecu, this fixed the code 12 and it starts properly now too.
The code 42 just comes on when the engine free revs above about 2500 so it is also now gone.

It might also be worth noteing that i am still using the caldina backtop ecu and loom which fitted up prettey well, i cant see that this would make a difference.
A mate suggested changeing back to the black top throttle body.

Just trying to get a few other ideas too so any help will be much appreciated

[-GT-]

What sort of cold start enrichment do these engines use? Is there a difference between how the red and blacktops enrich the mixtures when cold? If you're using one ecu on the other engine and they do it differently your problem might lie there.

I'm suprised you drove it around if it cruised at 60 with no throttle. Have you got the ecu codes and found out exactly what codes 12 and 42 refer to?

[chaRwie]

Theres a guy on ozcelica that just fitted the engine in his car, might wanna chase him up.

[MWP]

Checked for vac leaks, and that the idle air control valve (if it has one) is operating correctly?

[nick.parker]

Im with MWP. Your engine is getting too much air. Your Idle IAC valve may be stuck open? Or the air-con air valve is open? Or horrendous vacuum leak.

[aw11man]

Well it looks like i am going have to do some extensive investigations, the idle air control valve sounds the likley culprid.
Im not too sure where this is located im guessing in the throttle body some where i assume so i spose i will just swap back to the black top tb.

Aircon valve ? I Also know very little about this But i have decided to not go with a/c so there is no air pump attached.

Either way it will have to wait untill monday cos i just copped back to back 14 hr shifts


GT, i have the codes on paper, the 12 said something about the cam position sensor so thats where i found the broken wire so code is now gone, 42 just comes on when the engine reves above 2500 for a coupple of seconds without being in gear and goes away shortly after cruising again.

I had little option but to drive it to the auto elec, i had a good run with the lights and pissed of some other drivers by changeing down and crawling upto redlights and had to just turn it off a coupple of times at the red lights.

Thank heaps for sugestions

[AndyTTR]

Just some ideas for you, it might be something that you dont need an auto elec for?

If your not using the original throttle body, maybe the idle control valves (which i think are attached to the throttle on these engines?) are wired differently between the caldina and the red top?

The channel for the idle control which is machined into the back of the throttle may also be different, allowing air to leak past.

Which gasket did you use between the throttle and manifold? These sometimes have strategically placed holes for the idle control.

If you're not using the A/C did you cap off the vacuum lines to the A/C idle-up vsv? If the valve is plumbed in but not wired to the ecu they sometimes stay open which would also make your idle high.

If you're able to, maybe try putting the throttle that came with the engine on and see if the problem still exists?

[WaynO]

Yeah Ive still got a high idle on my BEAMS around 1900rpm! Ive traced it down to a combination of too much air rushing through the filter (as when I limit the air flow the rev idle decreases, runs really rich) and Im sure my light weight flywheel may not help the cause either as when I take off from the lights for example the idle decrease/increases when I clutch in and out!

I had those codes 12 and 42 as well when I first installed mine and was caused by a couple of wires not being connected from the ECU after connnecting them the codes never came back!

Oh yea and Ive also discovered that when thew filter sucks really hot air in (ie radaitor fan blowing hot air off the radaitor) the BEAMS idle goes a little crazy too. I think its just my really stupid senstive MAF sensor!

Installing my MOTEC M400 shortly so that should sort out my issues once and for all!

[nick.parker]

Aircon valve ? I Also know very little about this But i have decided to not go with a/c so there is no air pump attached.

You may have it covered then...I dont know the technical name, but atleast in older Toyotas there is an air bypass valve that is wired in parallel with the Air Con compressor clutch. When then A/C clutch engages, the bypass is opened thereby allowing more air into the inlet manifold.
This method is used because the IAC valve cannot 'flow' enough air to compensate for the load of the AC compressor (AC requires a few kW). Also this valve is a simple solenoid on/off valve that is very fast operating.

This system minimises the impact when the AC engages at whatever opreating point the engine is at. Without this, AC engaging at idle would stall the car for example.

Cheers, Nick

[Mooro]

I'm so jealous of you right now...I really regret not laying down my hard earned cash on the halfcut you have earlier before you guys snatched it from under my nose .

Have you confirmed whether the box is LSD or not?

Let us know how it drive once down and how it compares to the grey top beams you had previously.