7MGTE? Not a flame thread :)

[LordNafe]

Negative Boost, that's an awesome find!! Good stuff!! I'm always of improving oil systems, I've had too many problems there in the past in my 4ages.....

[TheStitt]

thats some awsome info on the oil system. The only thing i couldn't understand was how he got a way with fittings over the oil filter location.

I pissed off the factory oil filter mount and cooler feed and put my own filter location kit on and oil thermostat and oil cooler. It all seems to be working.

However one thing i have noticed is that at idle i only make about 4psi of oil pressure. As soon as the throttle is opened oil pressure goes up. I wonder if my oil pump is worn??

[Negative Boost]

In the TSRM its recommended to have 4.3psi or more at idle (which is 700rpm?).
At 3000rpm its anywhere between 36-71psi.

You might want to shim the pump a little bit to bump up the pressure. But it all depends what your idle is set at. My idle is sometimes around 1000rpm and i get between 15-20psi

[TheStitt]

I idle at 700rpm.

However I will look into shimming the pump next the sump is off or the car is in for some massive work

[Danners]

I only ever blew one head gasket on mine... I don't know how the rest of you put up with it! 2 years after replacing the gasket, the engine started to leak oil quicker than I could pour it in... couldn't be bothered, bought JZA70 half cut, converted car...

Never looked back

[Stomps]

Hey Nafe, important stuff has pretty much been said.. i can only give ya my experiences..

My last motor had:

ARP head studs, (make it easy to put the head on, easy to line up) they hold a little better then head bolts..
Cometic 1.2mm mhg...

head was professionally prepped...
block i cleaned with razorblade... not ideal but it worked... but if ya goin for 400rwhp then get the block machined..

another thing, replace the cooler piping, its a shit design, goin back over the motor, get a decent front facing plennum with larger throttle body..

my last motor made: 313rwhp on 13psi with an old td-06.. then 280rwhp on 12 psi with a factory ct26.. the motor was capable of much more, but died in the arse after my turbo shit itself... i had oil pressure issues...

motor before that had: ARP head studs, HKS 2.0mm MHG, TRD sealant (expensive shit) enough to do 1 head cost me north of $300... i didnt push that motor but it was making 248rwhp on 8.5psi...

also while the head is off, replace the valve stem seals... they are prone to blowing making your motor smoke like snoop on start up..

Good luck, i was gonna build my 7m up but decided to go for the easier option... i sold out... now goin 1j with 35r...

Stomps

[wiseco7mgt]

heres a few tips you can use if you want to build a 7m, although you may need a mechanic if you arent experienced.i paid extra to get a complete jap import engine and tranny from a ma70 that had only 46,000klms on the speedo.I pulled it apart and started with a checked and balanced crank.Then had the rods checked and balanced.I then had the ring gear and harmonic balancer checked and balanced.I used +25thou oversize Wiseco forged racing pistons then had the block bored and decked to suit(always match pistons to cylinders)also check your rings and file each ring to suit according to cylinder bore size at piston manufacturers spec.

Then the most important 7m tip is make a perfect head which means have it crack tested and get it surface ground as glassy as the machinist can make it, if you run your fingers over it and can feel machine groove marks then you are asking for trouble.The porting of the head is up to you, i match ported inlet to gasket and only opened up exhaust by a small amount.Another tip to help get a better flow is grind the valve guides flush to where they meet the head.Obviously theres alot more to the head such as replace your valve stem seals while the head is off as its much easier than replacing them while the head is in the car.Check and reseat all valvesand before cleaning it and putting it on the block clean out all the water jackets in the head with cleaning tools, youd be amazed how much crap gets lodged in the water jackets....

use only good quality bearings such as Acl race series or Clevite77 nascar series always checking clearances as you build.
Another weak point of the 7ms is the low oil pressure problem which is easily solved by useing a external oil cooler/filter relocation kit which does away with the stock sandwhich plate and gives you a new high flow one .
I used a speco external oil filter relocation kit which lets you use a larger filter such as a z9which is twice the size as a stock supra oil filter, and the quality was great.Useing a speco oil cooler also dropped engine temps dramatically.
Ive heard some people say to shim the oil pump, but my oil pressure is 80psi (cold) and 70psi above 2000rpm (warm) and 30psi at idle (warm) which is very good just useing a stock 7mgt pump(not shimmed).
bits i used on the build are:
titon 2.0mm s/s headgasket(use 1.4 or 1.6 if you arent useing oversize pistons or arent looking to push boost levels.
arp head bolts
Clean everything a million times useing fuel or similar products use pipe cleaners and compressor as much as possible cleaning oil galleries over and over again.(it can never be too clean)
Torque everything....
Dont use cheap gaskets ever.....
Sorry if ive rambled too much, ive grown to love the 7m engine and i may be biased but i think ive got one of the sweetest running 7mgts(hell yeah im biased)

[Vios-GT_07]

there's a certain MA70 with a 7M that makes 400hp++ and is daily driven, and the owner works near my house.. apparently it's still on stock internals (as mentioned by his mate) but had the head done and is running with a bigger turbo and aftermarket ECU.. i didn't believe it until i saw it, but it's one reliable monster on 20" wheels



point being, it could cost a bit more, and take a bit more time and effort, but yea it's definitely possible for it to produce big power and still be reliable

[EldarO]

you've added nothing to this thread but a big picture of Yangs shiny engine bay.

DODGY FIXES ON 7M'S WORK ONCE IN EVERY 500 MOTORS.

you have to be EXTREMELY lucky to get a non belted motor, pre fucked by factory, and continually reamed by previous owners.

unless you know for certain the motors EXACT history (not just the word of the seller) strip it down, have the head reco'd and the block machined (might as well reco it too).

small insurance, sub $3k if your looking for big, big power.

Elmo.

[BlackSupra]

Solution to problem.

Buy a new head from toyota.

Thats what i will do when i get a BHG.

[kemicalx]

I don't want to go plugging another forum here, after all toymods rocks.. but if you are after reliable 7mgte information, go to www.mkiiitech.com and read to you're hearts content. I can promise the information there is top notch

[wiseco7mgt]

Yeah i wouldnt just buy a 7m and boost it, thatd be pretty dumb. If you want to do that buy a 1jz, its a much better option for less mechanically minded people.
My 7mgt cost me about $5,000 all up for the engine parts and balancing, but all the labour was done by myself and a few top mechanics where i worked at the time, so i didnt have to pay for labour(the big killer).
I dont have a problem paying for a decent engine as it was a goal of mine to build a top engine, and theres a huge amount of satisfaction involved driving a sweet motor that youve built yourself ground up.
Sure if i had my time again i would have bought a 2jz, but wheres the fun in that?lol

[RyleyMA61]

id like to add after my headgasket was done, radiator all done and so on... when belting the car round the track the temperature gauge didn't move, and was good as gold (aside from needing a better oil cooler)

as they all say, fix the 7m once, do it right, it should be fine

EDIT: and when you do the headgasket, be sure to run it in accordingly!!!