7MGTE? Not a flame thread :)

[LordNafe]

Hey guys,
So i've tried doing a bit of research with mixed results. I'm looking to get a car soon with a 7MGTE in it. From what I've learned so far, they are quite a good engines with good, strong bottom ends (much like most toyotas). Main concerns I've found people having thus far ar BHG and oil control.
I'm not a complete idiot with engines, but I have a few questions.....
I see people talking about "Head bolts" and "Head studs". What's the difference?
What sort of Headgasket do you recommend? And what do you recommend for oil control?
Just things like baffles in sumps and wings for extra capacity, or uprated oil pump? (both of which I've done to my 4AGE).
Just chasing some general info on them!
I'll probably be chasing a reliable 335-400rwhp. Probably with something like a GT35 or a GT3540 off an XR6.
*ANY* useful info would be much appreciated! I'd like to hear from people that know, not people who have heard or people who think or "1JZ ftw!!!!!1111oneone"...
Thanks guys
Nafe

[Vios-GT_07]

1. do a search.. lots of 7M information around.. some accompanied with good endings.. mostly unreliable.. but there are a few good ones still holding up.. at least 3 comes to mind, that's making reliable power..

2. 1JZ ftw
3. ....?
4. profit?

head studs, head bolts... same thing.. the bolts that hold the head down to the block... this is the crucial bit in preventing BHG.. getting new studs / bolts, tensioning them correctly and properly.. i think they have to be re torqued after u've fitted the head as well, and this is very important in preventing BHG.. i should know this as i've been negged for shitting the 7M.. they aren't bad engines.. as i was once told they are the father of the 2JZ engines.. but the fact of the matter is, for a 3.0 6 cylinder, they are a bit lazy and need a bit of persuasion to get going.. but if you build it right and tune it properly i don't see why it should give you any dramas.. keep in mind though they are getting old now, and the 2JZ is a lot more modern and reliable for making higher power than the 7M and that's a fact u're going to have to face..

hm... 335 to 400 reliable rwhp with a GT35 or GT3540? erm... with a bit of work.. yea why not.. might be running a higher level of boost though, so i'd suggest a thick (1.4 or 1.6mm) metal HG just to be safe, and get it done by a professional or look for tips and suggestions of the 7M owners here

[LordNafe]

Thanks for the reply.
I did a search, but there's so many threads on this forum with references to the &m that I spent an hour and only got one or two helpful threads
I don't see whay a GT35 wouldn't make 335 rwhp, although a 3540 would probably be a bit big. 335hp is 250kw which I wouldn't think is out of the question for a stock bottom end?
Yes, 2jz's are better, more reilable engines, but have you looked at the price of a 2jz and 6 speed? A little out budget
Thanks for the reply though, but I'm speficially after info on the 7m

[Yian]

Bolt = thread one side, so a one sided tightening action.
Stud = both side threaded, so tightened from both ends. Better holding.

Headgasket = depending on how much prep work you wanna do. For metal HG, head and block must be perfect. I just opped for a stock gasket, with head perfect, and block as good as I can personally get it.

Oil = As far as I heard, stock oil pump (albeit a new one) does the job just fine. I'm using a 20+ year old 5me pump in my 7m Still going strong.

Chasing reliable 400hp = no idea. I doubt I got anywhere near that much power at the moment.

[celicaboy_2000]

My old 7M was pushing about 228rwkw (about 280 rwhp) from a rough tune and that was from a budget build up. This was my build:

- Block, surfaced
- Crank balanced
- Pistons balanced and HPC coated using ACL rings
- Std rods using ACL bearings and ARP stud kit
- HKS metal headgasket
- ARP Head stud kit
- Head surfaced, rebuilt head (valve stem seals etc), home job of cleaning up the ports
- Std CT26 highflowed
- 3" inch exhaust, std turbo dump pipe
- 660cc injectors
- Walbro fuelpump
- Wolf3d aftermarket computer, rough tuned
- Front mount

What wasn't mentioned stayed stock. Whole build up costed less then 6k thats everthing.

Theres alot of different combinations and it all depends how much you want to spend. If I had the money I would of shot peen the rods, forged pistons, bigger turbo and a few other bits n pieces on top of my exsisting build.

Let us know what you decide and pics of the build..

Matt

[88SupraGT]

I had a lot of problems with my 7M-GTE, blew the head gasket twice (ended up putting a cometic metal head gasket on it), turbo crapped out, AFM died, but worst of all, my oil levels were fine, changed filter every 5000kms and I spun a big end. I would thoroughly check everything before you buy the car and make sure its in mint condition. I'm now changing to a 1JZ to hopefully avoid any problems in the future...

[celicaboy_2000]

Check out www.7mpower.com

[Vios-GT_07]

Bolt = thread one side, so a one sided tightening action.
Stud = both side threaded, so tightened from both ends. Better holding.
.

bahh beat me to it.. i knew there was a difference... 2 am brain said otherwise...

i need sleep.......

+ rep

[RyleyMA61]

mine is on it's 4th headgasket... fixed it properly and now its fine.

since gone on to make 227rwkw, stock head and block, only the following:

Highflowed ct26E turbo
apexi safc II
550cc injectors
12.5psi boost
2.5"aluminium i/c piping to 600x300x76 ebay cooler
3" exhaust and dump pipe
cold air intake in front guard

thats it!

[Yian]

mine is on it's 4th headgasket... fixed it properly and now its fine.

Them are golden words. Fix it properly My 7m leaks oil like a bitch from so many places I can't even be bothered trying to find them. But HG? Perfectly fine after years of punishment.

[EldarO]

if you want a reliable 7M, because of the factory fuckup, unless you completely pull it apart and refreshen it, yourtaking a gamble.

most 7M's nowadays are well fucked from so many years of being abused, driven around with blown head gaskets etc.

my advice is, if your chasing a car you'll know to be reliable, and never have to worry about.

pull the motor out, pull it apart, have the block and head reconditioned, and machined perfectly flat, have the head welded up (the material thats rusted away) and use a metal head gasket.

provided its installed properly, and serviced properly for the first 1,000k's, you'll be set to make as much power as the rods can take (some people have seen over 600 crank horsepower).

unfortunately, because you dont know the motors history, your really taking a gamble, fixing it properly will only get you 90%, as there may be somethign more sinister within the motor (warped block etc.)

Elmo.

[LordNafe]

Thanks for all the replies fellas
Celicaboy - 228rwkw is more liek 305rwhp

[TheStitt]

I've done the same blown 2 gaskets, have since gone a Cometic gasket and so far seems good.

I have always had ARP bolts and 8.5 pounds of boost.

[Negative Boost]

Here's a brilliant thread about solving some of the oil problems.

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showth...E+oil+problems

[boxh34d]

Here's a brilliant thread about solving some of the oil problems.

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showth...E+oil+problems

Has anyone actually found the need to go down this road??