For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Omegaman]

Did you just sell that set-up on Ebay?

no, I haven't put these on ebay. still stored away.

- - - Updated - - -

I could be interested in said goodies

pm me if u like.

[Omegaman]

Quick question.
When changing the cams on a ****250 head with *****231 cams, should i expect a little extra power in a specific RPM range?
that is with the cams just set up in there upward position.

I guess im asking if changing cams and fitting as per green book would be satisfactory for these cams.
Is there an overlap difference that when setting them up as per book, will actually loose power over std *****250's/270"s


Or do they really need to get dialed in for best results?
as the cams are the 3 bolt type, not the adjustable type.

does anyone have reference to the figures which these 231"s should be dialed in at....?????

is there adjustable cam gear replacements for the 3 bolt cams?

In saying the above im using 9.7.1 pistons.

i ask this as im doing a refresh on the head and valve clearances & seating.

[The Red Devil]

Why can't I see the pics. Please help. There are lots of posts on this site that don't have pics available and it's sometime very frustrating.

[JadeEstevez]

Why can't I see the pics. Please help. There are lots of posts on this site that don't have pics available and it's sometime very frustrating.

Because this forum has been around for a long time. Long before Facebook existed, people would use photo hosting websites to post pictures on forums. A lot of them have shut down, and so the photos are no longer available.

[Omegaman]

I've completed my head valve lapping and adjustments.
I've got the gaps sorted at - intake side to .30mm gap and exhaust .34mm

Now im looking at my cams, which i have the 231 early model cams and a set of 270 adjustable cams

I've been quoted by camtech $495 to regrind my 270 cams, to there Part 409(a) 286/286 with a .421 (10.69mm) lift.

some extracts from here and other references suggest.

282/282 with 12mm lift
292/292 with stock lift? or 11.7 lift
i guess more aggressive and for higher comp 304/288

does anybody have a setup with any of the above or recommendation.

car is EFI haltech ps500
9.7.1 pistons
port matched intake & exhaust
would like more torque than high RPM 2000-7000
as daily driver with some kick...

and another question.
eg. If your gap is say .30mm with a 10.9 lift on cam, that does that mean yr valve will open 10.6mm eg (10.9 - 0.30 gap)
eg so when the specs say gap 0.26 - 0.34, if u had 0.34 gap on the same cams, yr opening would read more like (10.9 - 0.34 = 10.56)
is a scenario like that enough to make a big difference??????
should you aim for a higher lift to allow for yr current gap???
should you allow gaping valves at high or low or middle of specs for advertised after market cam specs?

[sadboii]

Hey

I was wondering if you guys could help me out a bit. I'm rebuilding an 18RG early block 9.7:1 Pistons, 0.5mm oversize, 253 head and an unknown regrind spec on the cams. 4.4kg flywheel as well.
I currently have a pair of freshly rebuilt Mikuni Solex Type T carburetors with velocity stacks all ready to bolt onto the new motor and go. I also have an EFI intake manifold with throttle body, fuel rail and injectors. But I do not have an ECU or loom.
Depending on how this motor turns out, I might keep it the way it is or put in some even more aggressive cams. The motor is going into an RA28 Celica which is just my weekend fun driver so I don't care how much of a pig it will be to drive, but I still don't want it to be full race spec, just a performance street engine.
I am also trying to save on costs.

What would you guys recommend the best setup to be that is going to give good power, cool factor, etc whilst trying to save money.
1. Keep the carbies and be done with it. (Least power but still decent, hassle free bolt on, sound sick)
2. Sell the carbies, and use the cash to buy an ECU and loom to run the stock efi intake manifold. (Will make decent power, ECU, loom, tuning and setup might be costly and troublesome, can turbocharge later on)
3. Sell both, and spend 3k+ on an ITB setup (Will make the most power, but will it be a significant enough gain to be worth the cost?)

If keeping the carbies means I will lose like 3 or 4 hp compared to EFI, then it doesn't seem worth the trouble.
The future plans (a few years after brake, diff upgrade etc) would be to turbo this thing. I'm thinking 9.7 ratio will be fine with low boost and I would be aiming for close to 200rwkw.

On the above N/A setup i'm building, what guesstimate rear wheel power could I possibly achieve?

Thanks

[The Red Devil]

do you still have these pics?

[madmont]

[ToyTA22]

I've completed my head valve lapping and adjustments.
I've got the gaps sorted at - intake side to .30mm gap and exhaust .34mm

Now im looking at my cams, which i have the 231 early model cams and a set of 270 adjustable cams

I've been quoted by camtech $495 to regrind my 270 cams, to there Part 409(a) 286/286 with a .421 (10.69mm) lift.

some extracts from here and other references suggest.

282/282 with 12mm lift
292/292 with stock lift? or 11.7 lift
i guess more aggressive and for higher comp 304/288

does anybody have a setup with any of the above or recommendation.

car is EFI haltech ps500
9.7.1 pistons
port matched intake & exhaust
would like more torque than high RPM 2000-7000
as daily driver with some kick...

and another question.
eg. If your gap is say .30mm with a 10.9 lift on cam, that does that mean yr valve will open 10.6mm eg (10.9 - 0.30 gap)
eg so when the specs say gap 0.26 - 0.34, if u had 0.34 gap on the same cams, yr opening would read more like (10.9 - 0.34 = 10.56)
is a scenario like that enough to make a big difference??????
should you aim for a higher lift to allow for yr current gap???
should you allow gaping valves at high or low or middle of specs for advertised after market cam specs?

Hi. In relation to valve timing and lift, the rally guys use in region of 282 with about 11mm lift. Wouldn't want to go above 286 will cause drop of low to mid range torque. This allows the car, with appropriate gearing such as 4.1 or 4.3:1 diff, to be streetable on liaison stages as well for general use when getting vehicle serviced etc.
Your last question should be on cam specs such as lobe lift &/ or valve lift with said clearance. Also check wether hot or cold clearance, does make a small difference, had made this mistake luckily with no bad consequences other than slight loss of power down low until readjusted due to slight closure of clearance .

[Omegaman]

ToyTA22, thanks for reply.
To be safe, I feel the camtech quoted specs for 282/282 seems like a good compromise, when comparing to the rally cams used, with higher lift.
I used the green 18rg book for details on the gaps, I seem to remember the gapping being for cold. But as u say the specs with the new cam grind will show what gaps are required hot or cold.
I feel confident that this is the way to go. I just hope I see better results that the 231 cams, to justify the change,

cheers

[The Red Devil]

I have an 18RG that I want to rebuild. Does anyone have any parts for sale (IE oversize pistons, valves, etc, etc)

[exodus]

what's new...

hows everyone doing? rg's holding up?

[Kombirolla]

Hey everybody I'm looking at buying corona wagon with a 18rg and figured this would be the best place for advice.
First he says it's an 18rc block with and 18rg head is this a bad thing ? As in less power then a full 18rg? Cause from what I read it's not a conversion that's worth doing as it's easier to drop a straight 18rg.

And how well will this engine and a celica 5 speed box go in a wagon "rt118"? As in is there just going to be to much weight to pull around? If I have 5 people in it is it just gonna struggle ?
Cheers

[xLOCOx]

Out of curiosity how much would you be paying? what diff gears? they will make a difference too,
i mean its a 2ltr, but itll have no problem carrying people, it certainly is no 1Jz or 2Jz, most likely have to rev the crud out of it to make it go fast haha
theyre an overly good engine, packed behind a w50 im assuming?? itll do fine if you just want to cruise with a few mates,
the only difference between the 18RG and 18RC blocks are the dipstick tube, one on the right, one on the left, no power difference unless his interchanged the pistons, one has higher comp, than the other, the 18rg bottom end that is,
my guess would be he might have put the rg pistons in??? its all in question when buying a modified car
cheers Damian

[Kombirolla]

He said he's got 6500 on it at the moment but guessing it's neg.
Interesting I will find out about the diff gears, guessing stock diff, yeah I figured it being a 2L it will handle the weight fine. Revving is part of the fun haha, yeah w50. Yeah I didn't think there was much difference apart from the pistons.
The higher comp "rg" ones would be the better ones hey ?
Cheers Damian, that's just it I wasn't sure what the questions were haha.