i assume it free revs ok? and only under load it dies?
also what do you mean by die? cut out instantly or just coughs and dies slowly sorta thing?
double post...also.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
i assume it free revs ok? and only under load it dies?
also what do you mean by die? cut out instantly or just coughs and dies slowly sorta thing?
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Willofan: i think i love you.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
It idles fine, once it warms up and the revs drop. Its still fine.
When you put load on it dies slowly. If you try to give it more throttle so not to die, you hear the intake of air at the AFM, but it does not have any power in the revs. So it slowly dies.
Ill video tape it in the morning. It will explain it better.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Check your coil impedances.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
I really appreciate the help guys. Don't worry, I had the cams in the straight-up position before putting the timing chain on. It's all together and no valves were hurt in the making of this engine
The "Green Bible" has procedures for adjusting Valve Timing. I'm curious why they're in the "18R-G Engine Tune-up" section and not just the assembly part of the "18R-G Engine Service" section if it's only for compensating for manufacturing tolerances. Surely Toyota's manufacturing tolerances were more precise than a few degrees.
- 03-13 - 18R-G Engine Tune-up - Valve Timing
- 05-32 - 18R-G Engine Service - Cylinder Head - Adjust Valve Timing
Moving onto the next part of my rebuild. Tuning! It has:
- A pair of 45 DCOE 13's
- 34mm Chokes
- 1.60mm Air Correcters
- F16 Emulsion tubes
- 1.25mm Main Jets
- 55F17 Idle Jets
As far as I can work out from my Weber book, if I keep the 34mm chokes it SHOULD have (at least as a starting point):
- 1.90 Air Correcters
- F16 Emulsion tubes
- 1.4 Main Jets
- 50F08 Idle Jets
Can any Weber Guru's confirm that I'm reading this right?
Andrew
Last edited by andrewzuku; 17-05-2013 at 07:06 AM. Reason: Rename links
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
Andrew, the alignment of the cams isn't set and forget. Once the initial tolerances are factored in, you then need to account for chain stretch also, So it is something you need to check on a semi-regular basis.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Sullivan, what does wade charge for a set of cams like that? Are they ground from billet, or welded?
Ha, Sullivan. That's willofan in predictive text, lol.
ergMy original early build, required a cat for engineering purposes. Since that car is gone, I put all the gear on a new one. To remove the cat now means I need to change the rear or front of the exhaust. So guttering the cat would be easiest.
I also recall the rules saying that a 76-77 car and up requires a cat. Also that the engine since being originally from an 82-84 model car, needs a cat. This is all to do with unleaded fuel.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
1987 was the cut for ULP. Will need to check the ADR's specific to your engine to see if it needs it, however as a rule of thumb, if it came with it from factory, then it needs it. Bit of a grey area with 18R-GUE's though, as the basic 18R-C came from factory with no cat, and the block numbering system doesn't distinguish them.
Final thing though, is that if you have a mod plate, and the paperwork states you need a cat, then you can't delete it. That's overriding on top of all other requirements.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
I remember arguing the cat problem with my 2tgeu and 3tgte, they were made before the ADR rules changed and that makes then legal without a cat, but if your exhaust is made to suit the cat then i would just gut it.
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
Hi team.
18RGEU distributor cap and rotor button - same as anything else? 18R / 21R / 22R?
Also, given that I am lacking one, is a 2.5ohm ballast resistor suitable to use in lieu of an injector resistor block unit?
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
o_man_ra23, that makes a lot of sense.
This is my first time rebuilding an engine, and while the green book is very useful it's missing a lot too.
Long live the Tractor Engine thread!
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