For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[RA23GT]

Fuel only ECU's second hand are as cheap as chips and ones like the older Haltechs are reliable and easy to set up. I currently use a F7 and the linkage was about the hardest thing really but I modded a throttle cable from an old falcon and took about 5 minutes to set up. It clipped to the pedal, made a bracket and trimmed it to the right length. Fuel system wasn't too bad, got a pump from a EFI Camira (oh the shame, but it's a good Bosch one) mounted it low down on the back of the spare tyre well and even without a surge tank is perfect down to the last 1/8th or more. Replace the fuel hoses with EFI, blank off the old mech fuel pump (5 minutes with a piece of alloy and a hacksaw). Stuffing around with the Toyota loom and ECU would have been painful but the unversal loom and sensors with the Haltech was great. Mount the ECU under your stereo and teh plumbing to the MAP sensor is very short (a consideration when using MAP ECU's) This setup has been going strong for about 10 years.

I did have twin 45mm webers with ram tubes and socks, Rodger may remember, and damn I miss that sound!!! Pure X rated but holy cow did it love a drink. The power with EFI was about the same, maybe a bit more torque but the mileage went from insane to just appalling. So was happy!

Kev

[S. Lowlux]

OK Folks, my try at answering the pickup & sump deal with sustained right cornering.

This shot shows the modified pump sitting in the block with an extended pickup tube & screen. The pickup on the pump has been milled of at the original screen bolt flange & a much changed Pajero diesel pickup & screen coupled to it so as to put the pickup point centre, rear ,low.






Rear view showing expanded capacity, now 5.5 litres & drain plug at bottom most point.




View inside of windage tray with cut out for fitting over pickup & pump.
After discussion with others here in the know we decided that trying to keep 5 lires of oil down in the sump under a windage tray with the centre, rear, low pick up, should work & negate the need for trap doors, verticle V arrangements & such.
The front & rear of the sump bowl are verticle, the front drops straight down behind the front edge of the windage tray, & the rear drops at back edge of windage tray. The little cut out is for dippen shticken.
This rear bowl job is for RN 41 hilux.




Owen.

[thdevilshands]

Well seeing as the bore measurements were within standard specs and the bearings only had slight wear on rods 3 and 4 we'll just do a quick rebuild, here's a bit of a list of bits we're gonna buy:

Any obvious omissions?

Timing:
Chains (Top and Bottom)
Tensioners (Top and Bottom)
Guides (Top and bottom)

Full Gasket Set

Standard Rings

Std Bearings (Main and Conrod)

Cheers, Jon

[S. Lowlux]

G,day guys, can anyone tell me if the metal in the crank shaft in 18RC & 18RG is the same ?
I seem to recall something about steel crank in the RG.
Also some blocks have a 14mm hole at the rear to drain oil down from the head to sump while others have a 10mm hole. Does anyone think that a 10mm hole is gonna be too small & cause a flood up top ?
Owen.

[roadkill]

Hi,

crank is def the same. Never heard nor seen any difference.

Would be interesting to see if it were the twin cam vs the single cam head with difference oil return galleries. Didn't know there was a difference

thedevilshands - the chain guides - both the curved upper ones are like hens teeth. So if you've got decent ones just use them, otherwise you will have to look for someone to recoat them

bEn

[JustenGT8]

Both cranks are the same from what i have seen. I've spun the 18R crank to 8000rpm with no dramas.

[Steve M]

Cranks are both forged steel.

There may have been some early single cam cranks that were cast iron. They have been using those cranks since the mid 1960s.

If you're worried about the size of the oil drain hole, see if there is enough meat there to drill it out to 14mm.

[S. Lowlux]

Thanks fella's. I can now use my best crank.
Yeah, drill to 14 mm. Make me feel better anyhow. Just trying to get away without changing another thing.
Fair dinkum its from the bull bar to the tail pipe & everything in between. I want to go to Japan & make the bastards properly in the first place.
Owen.

[o_man_ra23]

It was probably made properly 30 years ago... it's just it hasn't been driven/maintained properly since

I just wish they said 'farkit' and mass produced turbo EFI cars in 1975ish, that would have made things a LOT easier for me now

Owen, has that gauge turned up??

[thdevilshands]

cheers bEn, talked to swmotorsport today, they can get 2 of the three guides but not the curved one so I guess we'll have to use the old one or adapt the 18RC one like was done earlier in the thread.

does anyone have the part numbers for the guides? I haven't come across them yet.

[S. Lowlux]

Yes, o man, mondays mail. Poke him in on weekend.
Thanks.
Owen.

[S. Lowlux]

Hello again folks I have a few test results for you.
Mr drinky drinky, the petroholic, RN 41 Hilux 18 RC. Test bed for the HI cap oil pump on previous pages.

o man sent me an oil pressure gauge which I fitted to him this morning.
Original standard oil pump
Oil is, Synforce Multi SL. 20w/50. dirty & at least 6,000 k use.
filter - Valvoline V013.

Cold start, hang of 4 seconds till needle moved, chain rattle, press up to 55 psi. rattle gone
Driving & engine warming press 45-50 psi, hot idle 10 psi. Needle moves like a tacho needle according to rpm between 10 - 50 psi

Back to shed drop oil. off with sump& fit hi cap pump with cover & pick up off the pump that was in there, same relief you see. Boof the bottom of the sump out a bit to get it to sit up to the block, bolt back on. Refill with same dirty black oil just drained.
Start engine, press up to 55 psi, drops to 50 psi warm.
Drive the ring out of it, press constant 50 psi at 60 - 120 klicks, no tach. Fluctuations with rpm, from 40 - 50 psi. hot idle 20 psi. The higher flow is maintaining higher pressure while the relief spring is dictating the high end of the pressure.

Back to shed, drop dirty oil & replace same brand from same drum. Change filter to Ryco Z37. all I had you see.
Drive him hot and hard through the hills for 40 k & I got the same results as with the dirty oil.

Started him just now after an hour sitting & there is markedly less chain rattle on start up.

Damn near ready to call this a success ,but a few more K's will tell the full story.

When I do the next one for the RG I will use a bit more relief spring tension. I am happy that the volume is not too much for the relief port size

Owen.

[JustenGT8]

Sounds like a good result. When are you starting production?

[Nickp28]

Hi Guys, First post in the 18RG thread so please be nice
I have recently aquired a complete 18RG EFI setup and i have a few questions.

1. So can i put this on a 253 or a 230 head? It doesnt have to be a 270 head?

2. Apart from getting an EFI thermostat housing what mods do i have to do to be able to fit it, if any?

3. I have included a couple of pictures, What is the item in the first picture?

Thanks in advance
Nick

[roadkill]

Hi Nick,

yes it can be bolted to any head, the biggest thing though is the thermostat housing is defferent for the efi as the fuel rail hits it and also the 88270 head has releifs as such cut out for the injectors, though that doesn't seem to bother anyone.

Can't remember who wanted it, but here are some of the chain guides

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_198...CMQG_1303.html

bEn