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Thread: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

  1. #811
    K Power Grease Monkey Damo82's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    Does anyone have a photo of 88230 cams with cam gears or can confirm for me that the cam gears are the early 3 bolt type?

    Cheers

    damo

  2. #812
    Junior Member Carport Converter RAd28's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    i THINK i might have those in my car at the moment, can confirm tonight if someone doesn't beat me to it.

    cheers
    '77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...

  3. #813
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    88230 are definitely the early 3-bolt type.
    ...... butt scratcher?!


  4. #814
    K Power Grease Monkey Damo82's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    Thanks Karl and RAd28 +rep (Sorry Karl, gotta spread the love)

    damo

  5. #815
    Junior Member Conversion King timbosaurus's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    I only have 3 RG heads but in my experience can say that they have all had the 4 hole/pin "adjustable" cam gears.

    They were:

    88250
    88251
    88253

    So I'm guessing it is only the early ones 88210/88230 that had the fixed type gears.

    RG QUESTION:

    I pulled apart an engine I bought a while ago and the rods are nice and smooth on the side of the beams only. I've never bothered polishing rods as I'm sceptical of any noticable performance/reliability gain. In fact, I would probably be more comfortable running stock rods unless they were know to be done by a reputable builder!

    I'm wondering if anyone has seen measurable gains from polishing the rods. Especially since they'll only be going into your average 9.7 EFI RG.

    - I can see a slight weight advantage, but not much. Probably my main positive attraction.
    - I can see that maybe there is less of a "rope affect" with the oil holding on... which might make a poofteenth of a hp improvment.
    - If the polishing was actually done properly, I guess there is less of an opportunity for fractures starting, but if has not been doen properly, there is a possibility of weaknesses being created.

    Do you think I should build the engine with these unknown polished rods? or put in some stock ones? When you here of "polished and peened" rods, do they really only polish the side of the beams?

    Cheers,
    Timbo
    Current rides...
    2) White RA25ST
    1) Red RA28LT (NOW WITH 1G )

  6. #816
    now with 7m powaz Automotive Encyclopaedia hosking1991's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    hey has anyone ever stuck a rg head on a rc block the only problems i could think of is the dizzy position and properly the oil filter
    cheers luke

  7. #817
    Junior Member Carport Converter TA-022's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    apparently something with the timing belt casing / covers. You need RG ones to fit to the head if I remember.
    Black Betty >HERE!<

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  8. #818
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    RG head will also need:
    RG oil pump drive
    RG auxilliary shaft
    RG timing cover (this solves the dizzy position)
    RG dizzy drive gear
    RG upper timing chain
    RG upper timing slippers (one is bolted to the inside of the timing cover)
    take the centre post out of the oil filter housing
    RG block vent
    move dipstick from drivers side to passenger side
    you also either need RG pistons, or you need to machine the pistons with valve reliefs.

    Basically, its a whole lot of work... and unless you have a whole RG, the chances of getting all parts is pretty slim. Also the 18RC oil pump doesnt have as much capacity, and I wouldnt trust the crank and rods to be as strong/well balanced. Really its not worth doing.

    As for polishing rods, there was a writeup I read once which said that it actually reduces the surface tension on the metal allowing cracks to form easier... might be worth asking Stu (oldcorollas)

    Cheers, Owen
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 18R-GTE
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    2013 86 GTS Aero. 1976 RA23 - 3S-GE Beams build to get raced in IPRA...
    1977 RA28 with bogan spec Ecotec V6 for dirt circuit racing

  9. #819
    now with 7m powaz Automotive Encyclopaedia hosking1991's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    cheers oman and TA-022

    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to o_man_ra23 again.

  10. #820
    Junior Vice ********* 1st year Apprentice Zane_28's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    Hey Timbo,

    Long time mate... guess what? I got the blue bad boy back on the road! with 18r-GTE goodness, I'll post pics up when I figure out how or if someone wants to host them for me. I ended up buying another stocky RG so the 2.4 is sitting on my floor....big end still gone , Anyways how is your 28 going? still built for comfort? not for speed?

    Cheers

    Zane

  11. #821
    Junior Member Conversion King timbosaurus's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    I agree with Owen, it's a lot of work which is only worth doing the swap if you have a complete RG with a busted block.

    Having said that, in addition to the information above.

    RG oil pump drive
    RG auxilliary shaft
    No harm in using the 18R aux shaft and oil pump drive if you doing a real budget job and keeping the 18RC oil pump. Not advised if you are actually going to rev the engine a lot or hit the track from time to time. The RG has a poor rep for oil supply (Both RG's I've bought have had no.4 rod bearing failure) so you are only making that worse by using an RC pump. Should satisfy driving sedately if you keep the oil topped up, but how often do we do that?

    RG timing cover (this solves the dizzy position)
    RG dizzy drive gear
    You will definately need the RG timing chain cover and drive gear to relocate the dizzy. The dizzy in the RC position will foul any inlet manifold.


    RG upper timing chain
    RG upper timing slippers (one is bolted to the inside of the timing cover)
    Not too easy to find outside an engine in good, or even servicable, condition either. I think ppl are looking at rebonding guides at around $50 each.

    Obviously also need the upper timing chain drive gear.

    take the centre post out of the oil filter housing
    Hmm... never done that... again, maybe not necessary if using RC pump?

    RG block vent
    Not a necessity, but if you have a bit of blowby you'll probably get sick of the dipstick getting spat out.

    move dipstick from drivers side to passenger side
    Nice to do for convenience sake, but not necessary. You will have to bend the stick to clear the carbies if you leave it on the driver side though.

    you also either need RG pistons, or you need to machine the pistons with valve reliefs.
    Yeah, I *think* the RC pistons will just fit, but they will give you bugger all comp. I've heard people throwing around a figure of $500 for a set of second hand stock 9.7:1 pistons , or a bit over a grand for custom forgies. Stock 8.7/4:1 comp RG pistons should be easy enough to get hold of though.

    On top of that, you will need also new extractors (RC ones dont fit), radiator hoses (thermostat on other side), new throttle cable/linkages, make sure the head you buy has cams and carbies attached and make up a plate to block the RC dizzy hole.

    Sounds worth it, doesn't it

    Cheers,
    Timbo
    Current rides...
    2) White RA25ST
    1) Red RA28LT (NOW WITH 1G )

  12. #822
    Junior Member Conversion King timbosaurus's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    Quote Originally Posted by Zane_28
    Hey Timbo,

    Long time mate... guess what? I got the blue bad boy back on the road! with 18r-GTE goodness, I'll post pics up when I figure out how or if someone wants to host them for me. I ended up buying another stocky RG so the 2.4 is sitting on my floor....big end still gone , Anyways how is your 28 going? still built for comfort? not for speed?

    Cheers

    Zane
    Hey Matey!

    Good to hear! I'm glad it's back running, and have no doubt that the 2.4L will be better than ever when it's rebuilt. Shotgun!

    This will surely be an RG for ppl to envy when it's back together

    To post pics, go to imageshack.us and upload them there. Copy the link it gives you and use the "insert image" icon thingy when you are replying.

    It's a bit off topic, but sort of RG related, so i'll continue just this once

    Yeah, the Red Beast hasn't really been touched since it's canberra days. I'm still undecided of it's future. Currently piecing together a 9.7 EFI RG out of parts lying around for when the RC kicks it, but after that I've got no idea. I think I'll get it into tip-top mechanical shape, get the rego transferred to VIC and sell it. Then move onto a bigger a better 28 project from scratch.

    18RGTE? Hmmm, maybe... but only if the engineers down here give me grief over large displacement, forced induction and an excesive cylinder count
    Current rides...
    2) White RA25ST
    1) Red RA28LT (NOW WITH 1G )

  13. #823
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    Timbo..
    RG aux shaft is longer (to allow for the dizzy drive gear). The RG oil pump drive is often mistaken as a blanking plate... goes where the RC dizzy does. Upper chain drive gear is identical between the 2. Moving the dipstick is the easiest thing I listed... why not do it?? I have heard of new o/s RG 9.7 pistons at 5-600 squid. You would need to dummy the engine up and check for valve clearance with modelling clay if you were to use the flat tops. The RG valve reliefs (for 9.7s) extend below the block face. Radiator hose is fine, just flip it over the other way (worked for mine).

    Sorry dude, but you had that all round the wrong way. I still agree that its not worth it unless you have a cactus block (even then still a pain in the arse)

    EDIT: oh and the centre post on the RC oil filter base is too long for the RG oil filter.

    Cheers, Owen
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 18R-GTE
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    2013 86 GTS Aero. 1976 RA23 - 3S-GE Beams build to get raced in IPRA...
    1977 RA28 with bogan spec Ecotec V6 for dirt circuit racing

  14. #824
    Junior Member Conversion King timbosaurus's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    anyone know if the stock 18RG EFI setup suits the "common" injector size mentioned on the megasquirt site?



    Just trying to decide on some cheap replacements for the stock injectors. Anything around the 300-350cc mark will suffice.


    edit: Thanks for clearing up the info Owen. I thought I remembered correctly, but oviously didn't!
    Current rides...
    2) White RA25ST
    1) Red RA28LT (NOW WITH 1G )

  15. #825
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

    The 18RGEU injectors are low impedance type which require external resistor packs.

    Cheers, Owen
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 18R-GTE
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    2013 86 GTS Aero. 1976 RA23 - 3S-GE Beams build to get raced in IPRA...
    1977 RA28 with bogan spec Ecotec V6 for dirt circuit racing

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