For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Javal]

Guys, can someone have a look at the attempted wiring diagram. its for the haltech E6K into 18rgeu.
i have a dizzy with home signal. (2 wires)
hall effect on crank (3wire)
2 coil igniter
cold start inj, 4 x injectors
that im trying to wire up.
the top diag is me starting to wire up.
the bottom is for the experienced to attempt for me.
i'm not sure of the haltech Hall effect sensor if it needs a diode and the actual wiring, when it says to use a 5v+. or does that also mean NO diode and use 12v+???

sorry for the hassle gents, im at work now, so its rushed.

Hola.

First up, I reckon I mentioned before that i've got no idea how the VR sensor is going to go with the EK6. I mean, i'd imagine you need a 'Home' signal to go to your 'home' terminal on the ECU, but i'm sure you've done some research on that one.

As for the Hall effect sensor, I haven't seen one with a resistor (as pictured in the diagram) set up like that ever. I'm really not sure why that'd be there at all. Regarding the voltage to be supplied to the sensor, it depends on what the sensor is designed for 5v style sensor wants 5v, 12v style sensor wants 12v. So it depends on the sensor. Considering the EK6 doesn't have a regulated 5V reference output, i'd probably make sure the sensor suits 12v application.

If the EK6 can't use a VR sensor i'd mod the dizzy to take a 12v hall effect sensor too and use that.

Also a higher res / clearer image of the ECU pinouts and some reference info would go a long way.

[Omegaman]

Hola.

First up, I reckon I mentioned before that i've got no idea how the VR sensor is going to go with the EK6. I mean, i'd imagine you need a 'Home' signal to go to your 'home' terminal on the ECU, but i'm sure you've done some research on that one.

As for the Hall effect sensor, I haven't seen one with a resistor (as pictured in the diagram) set up like that ever. I'm really not sure why that'd be there at all. Regarding the voltage to be supplied to the sensor, it depends on what the sensor is designed for 5v style sensor wants 5v, 12v style sensor wants 12v. So it depends on the sensor. Considering the EK6 doesn't have a regulated 5V reference output, i'd probably make sure the sensor suits 12v application.

If the EK6 can't use a VR sensor i'd mod the dizzy to take a 12v hall effect sensor too and use that.

Also a higher res / clearer image of the ECU pinouts and some reference info would go a long way.

Allo.

I have researched and found the home signal from the dizzy is going to work with E6k- (checked with Haltech them selves). though at the time i didnt have wiring diag to ask how it should be wired.
My example looks wrong, as you have suggested. Do i need it to go to Home for the dizzy or trigger???
with the CAS to the other?

The Hall sensors seem to be 2 types, In some cases, the Hall sensor doesn't produce a voltage signal, instead it pulls a voltage low. In these cases, you will need to attach a pull-up voltage and current limiting resistor to the signal line. You do this with a 5 or 12 Volt source (Haltech will work with 12v source, also the sensor was chosen by them to work with what i have). thank god....

yep the pics are hard to get clearer. if it helps anyone heres the Haltech wiring site to see it clearer. http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/up...6KLoomRevF.pdf

doesnt anyone have their GEU wired to this type of old ECU...if so do you have a wiring diag of yr own to share??? please.

My wife thinks i'm studying for my Masters, with all the info i've printed out on the subject...lol

[andrewzuku]

Hey,

In pursuit of that glorious induction noise, and keeping any mods I do reversible, I'm eventually going to swap my factory 18R-G airbox for either a:

Pipercross PX500 or ITG Megaflow JC50


Unfortunately neither of them sell a base-plate for an 18R-G. So instead of buying a blank one and making a mess hand-cutting holes...

Does anyone already have one they could scan/accurately measure/dimension for me, so I can have one cut on a router with holes and all.


Also...


Does anyone have a short manifold (17111-88231) they can measure to confirm the carb center spacing? This old post comes close, but the +/- 1mm error has me a little unsure.

I'd measure my own, but I'm feeling lazy and I can't be bothered pulling my airbox and ram tubes off - those little buggers are in there tight

Andrew

[jabbatron]

..........

[andrewzuku]

I'm not 100% on the port spacing yet, but it's the outline I'm mostly interested in anyway.

I'm pretty sure it's:
(#4) <-90mm-> (#3) <-109mm-> (#2) <-90mm-> (#1)


...but there's bolt holes etc as well for twin 45 DCOE's as well.

[73GTV]

I'm not 100% on the port spacing yet, but it's the outline I'm mostly interested in anyway.

I'm pretty sure it's:
(#4) <-90mm-> (#3) <-109mm-> (#2) <-90mm-> (#1)

...but there's bolt holes etc as well for twin 45 DCOE's as well.

Maybe this will help.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/35...on_gaskets.jpg
http://www.christopherwking.com/wp-c...2721961914.jpg

[andrewzuku]

Thanks 73GTV. I'll be using those diagrams when I get the baseplate template (or even if I have to buy a blank base-plate)

I suspect I'll have to offset the holes to avoid hitting the brake booster.

[jabbatron]

..........

[The Witzl]

Omegaman - i would just not use the old shitbox Haltech ECU. Its just not worth the effort.
Seriously you can buy much better for an affordable amount these days, for example Adaptronic E420c often sells 2nd hand for $500-600, or you can go the Megasquirt route for even less.


I may even consider selling my Adaptronic E420c as im starting to lean towards needing something with flex fuel capability (like the e420d select), as i think i will one day be tempted to touch E85.

[andrewzuku]

Hey Jabbatron,

Thanks for the help, but you've got a different manifold to me. Also, your drawing doesn't include the ITG or Pipercross tabs, so I'm not sure I can use it.

I seem to also be having a really hard time getting the exact location of the float vent hole (included on most filter gaskets). I may need to just pull my carbs off and scan the filter mounting face.

[Omegaman]

Witzl. i get what yr saying and i agree.
But other than the money side of things for a decent unit, the Haltech offers me cheap stand alone. Ability to learn to tune myself as oppose to most units around.

i actually bought this unit to use the std dizzy and no other mods.
But as i got into reading and posts here, i went further into it...

But the major reason is, as per previous posts, i couldn't get my engine to idle longer than a few seconds.
Until im satisfied that it was the std ecu or wiring thet had a problem, spending over and above for a newer unit is pointless.
If i get the same issues with the Haltech, then i'll tackle it a different way.

Anyways, now that im changing to Hall effect and coils etc, i will be in a position to look at a range of ECU's and be ready to install them myself and maybe road tune...We'll see...

I tried not to ask too many more questions on here, as this is an old ecu and old problems, searching old post helped and so did Haltech themselves.
Im learning heaps...lol

thanks for the advise..
cheers

[The Witzl]

adaptronic software appears quite user friendly and easy to learn to tune yourself.
I learnt to tune myself using a Megasquirt-2, thanks to the very user friendly GUI programming software. Good tuning software makes a HUGE difference if you want to learn to tune yourself.

[GT1978]

Yeah so the crank pulley bolt on my RG insists that if I use the accelerator the torque produced is too much and it can't hold on and unscrews. Any suggestions on getting it to stay tight? Are there any foreseeable issues with just lock tighting the bastard in? I might change the pulley over while I'm tackling it as I have the mega accessories option pulley with like 50 grooves and it's felt pretty sloppy while the bolt was loose. Recon I'll swap to a smaller pulley while I don't have the aircon on and check/replace the key in the crank also.

[Omegaman]

adaptronic software appears quite user friendly and easy to learn to tune yourself.
I learnt to tune myself using a Megasquirt-2, thanks to the very user friendly GUI programming software. Good tuning software makes a HUGE difference if you want to learn to tune yourself.

oh, i hear you with the software. DOS software is like, ancient, like me.
My emanage software was better, by far.

Even if i get this going this weekend if it doesn't rain..Again. i'm probably a few weeks from it being suitable for the street, then i will see what benefits i will get with new ecu.
As i would assume, i will tune it once and wont re-tune till i change something. As its only a street car, not weekend warrior...

[andrewzuku]

For anyone else playing with DCOE or DHLA air filters, I drew up the bolt pattern / gasket in Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator.

• 45DCOE_Filter_Gasket.png (118 kb, 2100 x 2970 @ 254dpi)
• 45DCOE_Filter_Gasket.ai (111 kb)
• 45DCOE_Filter_Gasket.psd (1.55 mb)

Also, I can confirm the carb center to carb center spacing for the 17111-88231 short manifold is exactly 199mm (or 109mm centre to centre distance of the 2nd & 3rd carburettor chokes).