For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Javal]

Hi guys,

I know it's a topic of interest (and was being recently talked about in the 18RGTE thread), but let's talk about lightweight flywheels.

I've been tossing up whether to fit one to my dead stock 18RGEU before it goes in, as far as i've read it'll be beneficial irrespective of how cranky it is.

I don't really want to go through Kameari or THA for their gear (which honestly looks just like fidanza gear...), my local clutch shop has been helpful but can't seem to source one.

Any advice or recommendations for suppliers would be appreciated.

[jabbatron]

..........

[RA35GT]

Toyota 18R

Some extra info here http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...ml#post1480525

[o_man_ra23]

Why not Fidanza? The one I purchased looks pretty good quality, and has the advantage of a replaceable friction surface. The Kameari ones are completely different, as they are Chromoly, not Aluminium, and they are also very slightly lighter too.

Others have had success with the direct clutch units, so would say that's another viable option.

[jabbatron]

..........

[lilcrash]

I also need info on flywheels, my current one I dont trust due to it living under a tree in composting leaves for 20 years. Who feels its safe to use?

[ando9111]

i got mine from direct clutch services in QLD.
http://www.directclutch.com.au/

had to be made there and cost around $500 to my door just had to put my old ring gear on.

[Javal]

I spoke with Direct Clutch today - extremely helpful bunch of guys. They knew what I was talking about straight away, still have the design on hand and you can spec your own target weight for the flywheel to suit your needs.

On top of that, the price is about pretty close to the mark. Quoted a touch under 500 before shipping if I supply (but they fit and balance) a ring gear, so after all is said and done (shipping, ring gear) it'll be cheaper than a Kameari unit but a little more expensive than a Toyhead auto unit. Not bad for an Australian made custom billet unit!

[Omegaman]

Gentleman, finally the Sydney rain has eased.
Back to my 18rgue, which is still cutting out.
i gutted the cat converter as was blocked badly, this did not help.
new plugs, dizzy changed, no vacuum leaks, wiring looks fine, coil and leads are good.
Injectors firing, fuel pumps pumping, AFM seems good.
The engine seems stronger than ever now. But still stalling.
the only other thing i notice is when cold it runs longer, as it warms up it stalls sooner.
I changed the temp sensor last time.....Sooo whats next.
watch another vid to see the problem.

http://youtu.be/eaFrqVLqrRk

[RA35GT]

Did you check to see if it still fires the injectors and coil when the cut out occurs? (Did you monitor all those items at the time of the cut or while running?)

(I.e. whack an led/noid light on the injectors and a timing light on the spark plug and see what each does when the cut occurs, hopefully provides more insight as to where to look).

Cars can be a real headf*ck when sh1t just isnt going right, but you just need to be methodical and ruling out problems in stages.

[Omegaman]

I've put the noid light and timing light on. Both are flashing till it dies. No signs of any sort to suggest a problem there.
The pumps were working, the lift pump std filter was and is always full.
I'm still thinking its a temp thing. At warm up stage it took a while for it to die, then shorter periods till death.
I'm tempted to take out the ECU wiring harness and go through it from front to back. I don't know what else to do. ;(

edit...I've been watching the 6pm news and a light bulb went off in my head.
I noticed that water in radiator was not flowing, and a little low, so im wandering if the thermostat is stuck closed. So no water flowing over the temp sensor.....????? Would that sound probable, that no signal from the sensor to the ECU?

[RA35GT]

If the injectors are clicking and spark is occurring that really only leaves fuel flow into the engine.
Where does your fuel pressure gauge get it's reading from?

How is your FPR/fuel lines/Fuel pump hooked up?

Re: temp sensor, not likely mate. Easy to test though, disconnect the temp sensor, as the ecu will use a default value for it if it's not there and see how it runs.

[Omegaman]

Damn.... yeh injectors are firing and pumps pumping ok.
As far as pumps, nothing to complicated. Filter, lift pump, surge tank, high pressure pump, high pressure filter to fuel rail then FPR back to surge tank then to main tank. Wiring seems ok, triggers from AFM, works fine.

[RA35GT]

Have you run it without the AFM triggering the fuel pumps? (i.e. just run the pumps constant to test?).

[lilcrash]

I've seen a few people hook up a fpr wrong, just check that its right. I hooked mine backwards one day. Car wasn't happy.