For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[egamirrorim]

Cuts, check out Clutch Industries' RPM range of clutch kits, they're a quality alternative for Excedy.

[4th surf]

Cuts, check out Clutch Industries' RPM range of clutch kits, they're a quality alternative for Excedy.

Um same stuff different box and better price. Unless you know someone there you cannot deal with clutch industries direct rather a "Re-seller" or agent

[Taff]

Cheers for the links. Can't seem to get it going on more than 3cyls. Cylinder 3 is not even firing at idle and i dont think its going it all. Have swapped plugs, leads, idle mixture screws and even swapped the carbs which resulted in it being definetely a carb issue. The idle mixture screw is fairly munted so i swapped it out with a good one and there is still no action from cyl 3. There is no obstruction in the screw hole. Could the housing be buggered? It is one specific throat that is the issue the other three seem to be running good.

Pulls pretty well for a 3cyl too.

[Zammo]

try swap the 2 carbs around see if that changes anything

[Taff]

done it already. It's the right throat of the left carb. Just took it for another drive and its backfiring under acceleration pretty bad - wasn't doing that before

[Sagluren]

try a shock test, rev it up and on decel put your hand over the throat of the carby, making a seal with you hand. this will well like the engine is sucking your hand in. this will suck any shit in the carby to the engine..

cheers sam

[o_man_ra23]

Check that the main jet is screwed in properly. They work loose on the solexes in my experience, and flood the cylinder.

[masterofsinanju]

I'm not sure if it is the same as owen is descrobing but I've had a venturi drop out of place with the same effect. If you can get a mirror and have a look down the throat.

[Taff]

Cheers for the advice guys. After a bit more of a play today I am 100% certain that the RHS throat of the carby closest to the firewall is overfueling like crazy. I have pulled the jets and swapped them left to right and it stays the same. I have swapped carbys and sure enough it changed from cyl 3 to 1. The plug is black and wet whenever removed. The only thing that comes to mind is the carby had a mangled idle mixture screw in there which had snapped off. The screw has been removed and replaced.

Could the damaged hole be causing all of this? Would it overfuel to the point of not firing at all? Does this mean i need a new carby shell - i dont see how else to repair the idle mixture screw seal as its built into the carb.

[RA35GT]

Think i have some spare carby parts if you need man.

[Sagluren]

remove the jets and check to see if thy are the same or arnt damaged, it does sound like owens loose jet thing to me.. it happend to me a few times but not s bad as you are descrabing..



cheers sam

[Taff]

All jets are the same. I have swapped them from left-right in the same carby as well as completely swapped jet blocks with the other carby. O-rings are brand new carbs were completely rebuilt - gaskets/shaft seals/o-rings ect. Problem remains in the same place.

[Taff]

Think i have some spare carby parts if you need man.

cheers for the offer - i think its the housing at the moment but im open to any ideas. If you have a S4 main housing that would be great. Its the 4 bolt main cover with no float adjustment.

[Taff]

Ok borrowed a set of solex off a friend which are the type T. Running pretty well now. The holes in the main body of my S4s are about 6-7x larger than they should be, they have been overtightened and flogged out to a very large size. Going to find a replacement S4 body as I like the look of them more than the type T.

Now just fine tuning/balancing. learning alot. Have it running pretty sweet but occaisionally i get a pop out the carbs. Is this just an ignition or cam timing issue?

[JadeEstevez]

Hey I was told to post here =3


*Copy and Pasta!*

"I tried searching but only answered a couple of questions I had so I'm asking the others here =)


I've heard you can bored the 18RG to a 2.2litre then chuck a 21R or 22R crank in there to get 2.4litre...
Now, Has anybody just done the 21R-22R crank without the bore? What would be the effect from doing this as opposed to the bore (As in revving, balancing etc etc...)?

I Also heard boring and stroking cuts into the revving characteristics of the 18RG quite serverely... So, I had a think about stroking my 18RG to 2.2litre (The safe point apparently) but I thought the crank would be a cheaper solution then paying someone to bore the block, seeing as I can get a crank from the wreckers.

What else is involved other then just fitting the crank? Would it need balancing? Is there more to it then just bolting the thing in? Is it actually cheaper then the boring then I think?


Thank you."


I was told by The Witzl that it's more difficult then the bore, but what would be the gains and losses, performance and behaviour wise, as opposed to the bore?