For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[bnicho]

Brett are you running a 253 head? The dissy should bolt to the front of timing cover where mine bolts to the block, thats why you might have to give them your dissy.

Price wise you are going to be looking at $500 because l paid $350 over 10 years ago and they installed it for me.


Roscos

It's a 250 head, but yes, dizzy is mounted in the front timing cover.

Happy to pay $500 if it sorts the problem. I want this car to go as good as it looks.

[SilverRA23]

The guy who dyno'd my 2TG got the dizzy rebuilt into an electronic one - not sure if it was a Scorcher or someone else, but they did them here in Melbourne.

My parts bill (all at workshop marked up rates as I ran out of time to do it myself) were:

Distributor Assy - $610
Coil - $89

Was definitely worth the spend even though it hurt at the time!

[bnicho]

The way I figure it, I got a modified 18RGU at a very cheap price. I could have had to spent a small fortune rebuilding the engine. (I just wish I knew what the specs actually were.)

I'm just a little surprised that it's not as simple as a rebuild and recurve of the dizzy, as I thought Toyota electronic ignitions were pretty good.

Another thought that occurred to me is a MegaJolt or similar programmable ignition? Anyone tried one of them?

[ra_28]

I had no trouble with my engine it had 22r dizzy internal recurved to 6 degs total advance 9.7 comp pistons with trd rally spec cams reved 7500rpm all day no worries.

Cheers
Alex

[Steve M]

I found one problem affecting all of the 18RGU carbies that I've seen. (the ones with the multi screw jet cover)
The accelerator pumps have not worked on every set I've seen, regardless of the condition of the rest of the carb.
The length of the push-rod was too long and did not apply adequate pressure on the spring to actually make the pump work effectively.
We had to insert about 2-3mm of washers to pre-load the spring. This modification got rid of the sudden accelleration hesitation for all sets of these carbies I've played with.

Hesitation or flat spot mid-rev-range (somewhere around 2500-a bit over 3000) is often a mismatch of cams with slow jets/main jets. If the slow jets are too small, they can be at max flow before the main jets reach their effective range. Depending on the cam set up and the amount of throttle applied, the affect of this mismatch can vary.

Check your accelleration pumps to make sure that they are squirting fuel for the prescribed length of time in the green book.

What numbers are your slow jets, main jets (bottom) and air correctors (top)?

[o_man_ra23]

You can find out the specs of the cams by using a dial indicator and a degree wheel. There is a good writeup in 21st Century Performance which tells you how to dial cam overlap, but that same method can be used to work out the lift and duration of said cams.

[bnicho]

Thanks!

The carbs are not the multi-screw cover type, those carbies were stuffed when I bought the engine. I replaced the carbs with the older reco S5's with the butterfly screw covers. Jets are 135 Main, 140 Air Corr, 65 pilot. I gave the guy from Thornburys an assortment of jets. He reckons this was the best combo with those jets, except for a little on the rich side at the top end. No biggie, I don't give a toss about fuel economy, I just don't want bore washing. Accelerator pump discharge was checked and also spot on. I really don't think anything further needs to be done to the carbies because they have been set up by an expert who knows Toyotas. (BTW he has an RT72 Coupe for sale if anyone's interested.)

Cheers,

[Steve M]

Those jet sizes are smaller than 18RG jets from the factory.
The slow jets are normal size, but the mains and air correctors sound more like the factory 2TG set up.

18RGs had 140 mains and 145 airs in all of the ones that I've seen.

Do you have any information on the RT72? I'd love one of those.

[bnicho]

Those jet sizes are smaller than 18RG jets from the factory.
The slow jets are normal size, but the mains and air correctors sound more like the factory 2TG set up.

18RGs had 140 mains and 145 airs in all of the ones that I've seen.

Do you have any information on the RT72? I'd love one of those.

The crappy carbs that were on the engine when I got it had 65 pilots, 135 mains and 140 air correctors. When the S5's arrived they had 57.5 pilot, 140 mains with 180 air correctors. I changed the pilots to 65 early on.

I too was surprised at the main jets selected, but Thornburys are the experts with all the right equipment, not me. Power, drivability and economy are all better than wehn I took it in, so I'll stick with what they fitted. The current jet sizes are from memory of my conversation with Peter from Thornbury's, so I will take the jets out of one throat and have a look sometime. You've got me curious now.

The RT72 is owned by Peter. It has a reco 8R and the carbies have been rebuilt (!). It's pretty straight, a little rust, needs a clutch and paint job. I haven't seen the car, this is just what he told me. He's got quite a lot of cars and no time to finish them all. I deliberately didn't ask what he wanted for it, because if it was cheap I'd end up in divorce court. (My missus hasn't found out about the twin cam headed A series engine I bought for the Moke yet, so I'm already in the poo when she finds out!!)

[river]

Hi,

Sell the Pathfinder!

seeyuzz
river

[bnicho]

Sell the Pathfinder!

Hah, that would really get me in to trouble. It's supposed to be my company car, but in reality it's Sarah's daily and I take the RT132 and train to work.

[Omegaman]

I have been looking at different posts, regarding surge tanks for Ra2*.
what do people think the likely hood of fitting this type under the car.
As I haven't been under mine for ages, does anyone feel this doable easily.
It's on ebay at the moment, mainly for VT c'dore setup, but i do believe it's a easy add to the underneath, may need a bracket only.
I don't want to cut into the floor.
what are your thoughts?
the piping and stuff are not included, so your own setup will need to be fitted.
Also how would this line up inside the rear qtr panel. Maybe a L shape bracket, block off area and vent out though pillar vents?(thinking )

[SilverRA23]

Linden (The Real Roadrunner) makes an under car surge tank for RA28's. Reckon you are better off getting something done that is designed for the car, rather than adapting one.

[timbosaurus]

couple of points:

1) will it fit? It's fairly sizeable, and unless you ditch your rear muffler, I doubt you will find room under the car.
2) Picture 2 shows the setup as a returnless fuel system. This is tricky to setup with boost if you want to run a rising rate regulator. Having said that.... I'm assuming you will only be buying the tank setup, which can certainly be used in a return system.
3) With threaded dash fittings, you'll need over $100 worth of fittings to plumb it in
4) You'll have to mount a lift pump somewhere. None of those pics show one, as I assume they are using the in tank commodore pump to lift the fuel.

[Omegaman]

I'll have a look at the Linden type, Sounds easier already. I will search for thread with a photo showing setup. thanks

Size may be a problem, though i was thinking it may fit behind the drivers side wheel well.
Again, I can't remember the space under there.
No, accessories are included, just the tank and bracket.
Your point of the attachements are scary. Maybe i was hoping for a screw type into a hose attachment x 3 would do the trick.

No, thoughts on placing it in the qtr panel?