1GGTe cooling system setup help.......

[IN 05 NT]

hey guys,

i want to keet the 1g as simple as possible with the cooling system,

what i want to know, will it be alright if i remove the external coolant pipes and heater block at the back of the head? and just plate it off?

i know that the block at the back supply's coolant to the heater, and ISCV, which i wont be running a heater anyway,
and know that i will have to manually warm the 1g with the throttle,

so will removing all the stuff at the back, is it going to give me any probs?

ive got mysefl a davies craig electric water pump and controller, already, and in the mail is a big 2 core alloy rad, This is a two core radiator 490MM X657MM fair bit wider than the stocker,

and will also be running 2 12" thermo fans to keep it cool,

any advice and help will be greatly appreciated,

[hypo23]

you will nedd too run a heater for rego im pretty sure or at least look like your running one as you need your windscreen demister too work, im not running one but still have the block at the back of the head not too sure if its advisable remove it or not though, mines not running through the iscv but im still running up around the oil filter

[TA-022]

23 is tacking the role of 'track car' so i doubt rego is an issue.

Maybe with the blank plate make it so the two galleries join. So dig a trench in the plate
to join em.

ATM mine has a heater hose from one out to the other and there are no temp issues.

[IN 05 NT]

yeah what i might do is just run the two external lines that run along the block to that back plate, but will weld closed the other fittings

yeah its becoming more and more track dedicated....

rego aint a problem either fellas

[SillyCarS]

as long as you dont get a stagnation point it should be ok

[6BOOST]

The water inlet and outlet to the radiator are both at the front of the head, and in factory form, this cooling line helps to bypass hot water back to the radiator, I highly recommend you don't plate this off for fear of causing massive temperature variations from the front ot rear of the engine. The 1G already has issues with this in stadrad form. The best thing you can do is leave it there, and when you plumb the elec water pump in, pull the guts out of the factory water pump and plate it off, then cool water will get pumped both to the front AND rear of the engine through this line.

I also highly recommend running a coolant header tank and having coolant bleeds in the centre valley, this will remove steam pockets from forming above the cylinders and give better overall cylinder temperature equalisation. The easiest method is leave the factory steel allen key headed fittings there, and drill andtap straight into teh centre of them 3/8 npt or 3/8 bsp, it fits perfectly, then you can simply buy some 3/8 thread to 1/4" hosetail fittings from pirteck and run to a coolant header tank. One of those cheap generic ones from ebay that are designed for skylines and stuff will work fine, and only cost about $60.

Cooling is something to be taken very seriously in a performance engine, heat and overheating can kill a good engine just as easily and quickly as detonation and bad tuning.

Cheers............................6BOOST

[SillyCarS]

some good info there

[IN 05 NT]

The water inlet and outlet to the radiator are both at the front of the head, and in factory form, this cooling line helps to bypass hot water back to the radiator, I highly recommend you don't plate this off for fear of causing massive temperature variations from the front ot rear of the engine. The 1G already has issues with this in stadrad form. The best thing you can do is leave it there, and when you plumb the elec water pump in, pull the guts out of the factory water pump and plate it off, then cool water will get pumped both to the front AND rear of the engine through this line.

I also highly recommend running a coolant header tank and having coolant bleeds in the centre valley, this will remove steam pockets from forming above the cylinders and give better overall cylinder temperature equalisation. The easiest method is leave the factory steel allen key headed fittings there, and drill andtap straight into teh centre of them 3/8 npt or 3/8 bsp, it fits perfectly, then you can simply buy some 3/8 thread to 1/4" hosetail fittings from pirteck and run to a coolant header tank. One of those cheap generic ones from ebay that are designed for skylines and stuff will work fine, and only cost about $60.

Cooling is something to be taken very seriously in a performance engine, heat and overheating can kill a good engine just as easily and quickly as detonation and bad tuning.

Cheers............................6BOOST

cheers for the advice, yeah i think i'll keep the standard external lines, i just wont run the heater core,

and yeah the waterpump will be hacked off and have a plate fitted over it,