Cost of getting an aftermarket ECU?

[pisso001]

Fair enough.. Sounds like ill be going 1G sooner than i thought.. Just dont want the hastle of engineering and all that stuff...

Thanks all for the help..

Pisso.

[mrshin]

Well, as far as engineering goes, it's just as illegal to fit a blower to the 22R as it is to put a 1G in there.

[pisso001]

Yea fair enough.. I may have found a good 1G deal too so just need to sell my 1JZ now n then ill be moving.. Hope to get it done before i get my licence back..

Thanks all,

Pisso.

[mic*]

Yea fair enough.. I may have found a good 1G deal too so just need to sell my 1JZ now n then ill be moving.. Hope to get it done before i get my licence back..

Thanks all,

Pisso.

Whats wrong with the 1JZ?

And can someone tell me, and everyone who doesnt know, why the standard computer would not handle 6psi? Its not THAT much more air. I imagine there is enough "spare duty" in the injectors? And the standard timing would be more than safe given it would be tuned to like 90RON and uber rich. 22RE has a flap type AFM doesnt it?

Am i missing something obvious?

[pisso001]

There is nothing wrong with the 1JZ just too big and need to mod the car to much to get it in.. Much easier to put a 1G in...

Why didnt you see this thread before.. Do you think the supercharging will work with all stock motor plus SC?

Im still going to do the 1G just wanted to have a play with the 22re before doing it and didnt want to rush the 1G conversion into existence either..

Thanks,

Pisso...

[Norbie]

And can someone tell me, and everyone who doesnt know, why the standard computer would not handle 6psi?

The most obvious reason would be ignition. The timing curve required for a FI engine is quite different to a NA engine, so how are you going to acheive that with the stock ECU? Most people just wind back the base timing but that's a very poor solution.

[pisso001]

Yea i see where your coming from norbie... The only reason im chasing this is cause it will be a bit of fun and i think i will learn alot about forced induction on a motor that doesnt matter that much. Where as if i learn on the 1G which ive just spent heaps on installing it, i wouldnt want to muck it up. Ive learned a lot already just from this thread..

Thanks,

Chris.

[1jzracing]

thing to remember if you get a good one to start with you can use it on many future projects and engine combos

i knew nothing about ecu's so just kept an eye out for a second hand one that suited my application, found one and learnt lots by installing it and playing with it.

things to look for are internal map sensor (saves you couple hundred) number of ignition outputs if you want to run multi coils later and duel triger inputs again for multicoils if needed later

if you do that to the 22r then when you change engines you already have the ecu and its just a matter of adapting it to the new engine

i would look at :
megesquirt- very cheap, seem ok i have little knowlege, batch fired, no MAP as far as i know
wolf- very configourable will support everything coils, sequential etc internal map, hand controller
hawk- basic simple wont support multicoils no MAP
EMS- as far as i know good all round internal map will support coils and sequential etc, hand controller
haltech- generally overpriced but good all round no MAP
microtech- simple to use, usually not interchangable between engines, hand controller
autronic- pay the money get the best, internal map, worth every cent!
motec- hi tech racing only .... mortgage the farm!

i like the wolf and ems because they have hand controllers to make easy adjustments anytime without the need of a laptop

hope this helps

[1jzracing]

ps.
if you thinking of going down the road of pigybacking something on the std ecu in my opinion dont go there!

it will be just as cheap and less hastle to go full aftermarket in the long run and you have no limitations for future engine combonations or forced induction type etc

[BeRad]

the megasquirt is a quality ecu from what ive seen/had a go at on a mates, can do anything you want it to do so long as you solder it into the board, if you cant do that theres people on the site who build them for you, they have every control and then some that the e6x haltech ecu has and is a fraction of the price.

And its just as reliable as any other ecu...

[thechuckster]

i would look at :
megesquirt- very cheap, seem ok i have little knowlege, batch fired, no MAP as far as i know

that's a little wrong

2 injector channels (batch or alternating), up to 6 ignition channels (depending on extra hardware added)
high or low Z injectors
MAP sensors up to 4bar
12x12 maps - up to 3 fuel maps and 2 spark map, also AFR target maps
baro correction (realtime or on startup)
can control a thermofan, nitrous, etc
supports launch control/staging, flat shift, traction etc
wideband or narrow band O2 sensors
lots of correction/adjustment tools (e.g. CLT & MAT compensation, different accel/enrichment systems, etc)
...
loads of configurability at a cheap price
can tune with laptop or palmtop and datalogs to either device
growing community of users (MSefi, MSextra)

order from many sellers from OS, a few Oz based sellers as well. Pre-assembled units start from about USD$330, unbuilt kits from abouT USD$250.

Requires you to install, configure, learn and develop your automotive skills - it's not the kit for you if you want drive-in/drive-out without any effort on your part,

[Norbie]

haltech- generally overpriced but good all round no MAP
microtech- simple to use, usually not interchangable between engines, hand controller

All current Haltechs have an internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor, older ones (such as E6K) don't though. Also the current Microtechs are usually tuned via laptop although they still have the hand controller option I think. Hand controllers suck IMO, much better to pick up an old laptop for $100 and tune that way if you want to fiddle with it yourself.

BTW I paid $1500 for a Haltech E6X plus full-length loom, sensors, relays and fuses - basically everything you need to wire it up and start the engine. IMO that represents pretty good value for money considering what you get; the Microtech might be slightly better but I was put off by the fact you can't easily transfer it to another engine, ie you have to send it back to Microtech to get it re-configured, whereas the Haltech will work with just about anything as is.

[chris davey]

All current Haltechs have an internal 2.5 bar MAP sensor, older ones (such as E6K) don't though. Also the current Microtechs are usually tuned via laptop although they still have the hand controller option I think. Hand controllers suck IMO, much better to pick up an old laptop for $100 and tune that way if you want to fiddle with it yourself.

Microtechs can be tuned via HC or lappy. The software is near identical to the HC so that old tuners can switch easily. The only difference is seeing things as a whole easier, datalogging, data guages. That is it I think. I did that cheap lappy thing for tuning also

the Microtech might be slightly better but I was put off by the fact you can't easily transfer it to another engine, ie you have to send it back to Microtech to get it re-configured, whereas the Haltech will work with just about anything as is.

You can switch MT between 1j and 2j. That is enough for me

[oldcorollas]

MS definitely has MAP.. usually comes with a 250kpa absolute sensor (1,5bar boost).. but there is nothing stopping you from putting in different sensors
should be easily able to get a 40psi boost capable sensor in the MPX range
(and we used to do MS1's for under $200 AUD)