7m with auto...engine siezed after reinstallation?

[Bowlsclubboy]

Hey peeps...been spending a few hours every night for a while now installing another 7mgte and auto into my gf's black abomination of an MA70.

When the engine was delivered, the auto was unbolted for shipping. The converter was still in the box and the flex plate and starter were still on the engine.

When bolting them back together, i did my best to keep everything aligned but as you can imagine its hard when you're working by yourself on the garage floor (as opposed to having a trans jack and a hoist).
Anyway, i heard a bit of a clunk when doing up the bolts but assumed this was just a dowel locating properly. The box pulled up square and i didnt have to hang off the bolts to do so.

Upon installing the eng and box back into the POS's eng bay and all the other crap that takes hours i attempt to turn it over. LOCKED SOLID. Even a huge breaker bar wont turn it over. Tried the auto in different gears, no difference.

What could i have possibly done and where could i start looking to find a cause?
I'm not in a hurry to pull the auto as i'll have to try and catch the $80 worth of DIII but i'm almost certain that will be where the problem lies.

Thanks in advance
Troy.

EDIT: Pretty sure the engine was spinning freely when i got it...and i doubt i was sold a dud.

[RA35GT]

Open the inspection hole on the box and see for any obstruction/weirdness?

[dude]

torque converter not seated properly, and jamming up the engine.???

[Dazza]

I would say the torque converter has not been pushed in far enough. They go into the trans in two stages first the splines on the shaft slide in and then you have to turn it and push it in further until the pump drive lines up.

[Bowlsclubboy]

Thanks heaps guys... Have never played with autos before. Get back into it first thing tomorrow. Drain atf, remove tailshaft, have psychotic episode etc. Why does this supra bring out the worst in me? Lol Cressidas are so much easier!

[allencr]

Drain atf, remove tailshaft,...

There is probably enough tailshaft spline length to leave it hooked up, so the trans will move back 2-5cm, then you can rotate the crank to engage the converter drive & pump.
When doing up the block to trans, about how far apart were they when you started to get a lot of resistance?
Most don't get damaged but some do, converter and/or pump. Good luck.

[LeaThaL]

I would say the torque converter has not been pushed in far enough. They go into the trans in two stages first the splines on the shaft slide in and then you have to turn it and push it in further until the pump drive lines up.

yeah id say this is the problem, i did the same thing with the 1jz+auto before i fitted them into my mz20

and if you havent already make sure its got oil in it, so many friends have forgotten to do this so its a habbit to say it

[Bowlsclubboy]

Oil was one of the first things i did as soon as the oil lines were hooked up...dont wanna make that mistake!

As expected, it was the converter not lined up, i removed the lower bellhousing bolts and just the force that i had exerted on the whole show due to misalignment opened up a gap around the bottom
Turned the crank about half a turn, heard a clunk clunk and she's apples.
Took it for a quick spin and no apparent damage thank fark.

Thanks guys...now i just need to work out why its overfuelling like crazy at idle!

Leigh, did the soarer have digi dash? If it didnt, thats the simple answer as to why i have no temp or oil pressure gauge lol.

[LeaThaL]

yeah dude mz21 only ever had a digi dash so yeah good it hear shes all good now, i drove that motor my self the day it was removed so i know it was a sweet sweet motor but still had me curious