Setting up a RA23 rear end

[J0RD0]

Hi all, just wanting to hear any suggestions for keeping the rear end attached to my car. I have a ra23 with a 1g and a 1980 rwd hilux rear end with all the standard Link's. It has new bushes and faily new shocks and springs. When I did have it on the road last (it was making 260rwhp), going back to 2nd and flooring it kind of felt like the diff was trying to escape the car! Have the new motor in (6 BOOST'S ex 1g) which will be putting out some numbers as soon as I get it tuned. I have a whiteline adjustable sway bar and going to order in a thicker pahnard rod, im pretty sure im going to need more than these. Anyone got any other suggestions? Ive also heard stories of under huge load trailing arms being ripped out of the mounts, any one had this happened?

[Norbie]

Sounds like you're experiencing wheel hop, which is typically caused by shocks not being firm enough or worn trailing arm bushes. Try talking to a decent suspension shop, they should have some ideas to help you out with this sort of thing.

[J0RD0]

Like I said all new bushes, shocks and springs (king springs and munroe gt gas shocks all only a couple of thousand ks old)

[thechuckster]

then shocks are probably not up to the task, or if the trailing arms were unadjustable and you're running considerably-lowered springs then you may need to consider adjustable -length trailing arms as well

If you've got deep enough pockets, ask Accurate Suspension or similar for a advice - otherwise try Fulcrum.

[J0RD0]

Yeah I went to fulkrum and they said that they wearnt going to touch that one with 10ft clown pole, yapped on about legal technicalities about why they cant do that to the car!

[thechuckster]

in which case i'd see a shop that specialises in race/drag car suspension... because kyle's 1G isn't exactly the powerplant for a dailer driver

[The Witzl]

i'd suggest the munroe GT gas shocks are too weak.... they are a "general use" shock after all. I'd also be looking at the suspension geometry - being that it's no doubt much lower now, the trailing arm angles will be different to stock. Perhaps some "traction bars" might help here.

I would suggest visiting the high-end suspension shops and getting their advice.

[ian]

all the advice there is good
i was talking to a suspension specialist and advised me not to go full nolathane bushes as the rear axle assembly binds up has anyone else heard of this
ian

[J0RD0]

in which case i'd see a shop that specialises in race/drag car suspension... because kyle's 1G isn't exactly the powerplant for a dailer driver

Yeah I got to get a 7psi and a 24psi switch! Cant wait!!!!!

So for the mean time would I be better off putting some standard height springs and shocks back in? Cause at the moment a bit short for a while after forkin over a few dollars for the motor

[thechuckster]

stock shocks would be even worse than the GTs - returning to normal spring height may help a bit - but i'm as much of a suspension expert as i am a rocket scientist...

personally, i'd disable the 24psi setting until you've got everything else sorted out. Otherwise like most rocket rides, it'll be noisy, smokey and over before you expect it.


ian: i have heard that - but the trailing/dragging arms of the RA23/28/40 are not going thru big arcs (like, say the arm from tha MA61 IRS) that would suffer greatly if something briefly bound up. The binding action could also be a feature of improper installation or fitting. However - see point about about experts and rocket scientists

["Z" UTE]

Jordan 76. you need to change the pinion angle, on the diff. What is happening, as you let all that power down through the tailshaft, is the torque loads up and twists the nose of diff up, causing binding in the rear universal joint. AE86 (yep, fit23's) adjustable upper control arms are available from a few shops , eg T3 (www.technotoytuning).

cheers Chuck.

[Sagluren]

the bushing bind up is sometimes caused by tightening the bushes when the wheels are either of the ground and hanging or sitting on the ground. they should be done up tight at middle hight eg: car jacked up a little, caster rod bushes on commonwhores do this all the time.

sam.

[J0RD0]

Sweet that'll save me getting them custom made up! cheers chuck and sam!

["Z" UTE]

the bushing bind up is sometimes caused by tightening the bushes when the wheels are either of the ground and hanging or sitting on the ground. they should be done up tight at middle hight eg: car jacked up a little, caster rod bushes on commonwhores do this all the time.

sam.

Got to correct you on that one sam. The car should be at normal road height, before tightening the suspension bush mount bolts. That way, the bush can distort in both directions a similar amount, when the vehicle is travelling. Tightening the bushes at normal ride height, is ultra critical when installing the segmented design bushes.

cheers Chuck.

[J0RD0]

Wow I never realised how technical it gets in the suspension department!