20v hunting

[4agte]

ok so ive got an aw11 with a silvertop 20v

ive filled the system with coolant and have bled the air at the radiator and heater

also im not running a bleeder near the engine

aparantly the thing to do is to add a fill point on the heater hose near the block so coolant can be poured straight into the block

do i need a bleeder or fill point near the block or is there something im not doing right in the filling process

i know you have to run the motor up to temp to get the rest of the air bubbles out but im worried that i might have little or no coolant in the block and it might overheat it

the dash water temp guage isnt working atm as the temp sender on the 20v dosent work with the aw11 dash

neways thanks in advance

edit: i would have thought if im getting coolant comming out of the heater bleeder then there must be coolant in the block...?

[BeRad]

indeed, the heater hoses/bleeder etc come from the block so water must be circulating....

just leave the cap off if the water starts to swirl/move around its fine. if its that much of a concern pull the thermostat out so it pushes water in as soon as the engine starts, limited water in the block after youve changed the coolant isnt a problem.

maybe ive missed something in your buildup, sorry if i have and this is irelavent

why wouldnt water be making its way into the block?

[4agte]

allright now my day has gone from bad to worse the brand new water pump is leaking!!!!!!!

genuine toyota and has a new gasket !!!!!! im about to pull my hair out

berad thanks for the imput

also trying to figure out why it would be hunting possibly need a tps adjustment??

the water seems to be moving arround and bubbles are comming out when i have the rear of the car in the air so it would seem all is working fine but still the hunting and the damn leaking from the water pump ill have to double check it to make sure all is well with the water pump

[BeRad]

u clean the old gasket off properly? bit of crc gasket stripper is good for this , hunting is usualy extremely lean , check the afm/map is connectd properly a loose connection will do this or stall one of the 2

[4agte]

ahhh thats a possiblity the pvc valve is blocked atm till i get it hooked up properly

the afm should... be connected properly but ill double check

there wasnt any gasket left on the block the gasket was still intact when i pulled it off

[BeRad]

is the pump leaking from there or leaking out one of the feed hoses for the back of the block etc?

does it rev when you rev it or just constantly hunts? if the idle motor is blocked off , it will hunt or stall too.

[4agte]

ahhh i havent put it up on stands yet to check exactly where its leaking from im hoping ive forgotten to put the feed hose on properly

what i might do is take a photo of my vacuum lines and maybee you could tell me if ive got it all pear shaped

[4agte]

the hose that isnt plugged on the right was plugged while it was hunting

[BeRad]

so you fixed it...?

[4agte]

nope not fixed

can you see anything that should be going to vacuum

[BeRad]

dunno dont know much about the 20v's is it running the std ecu? check the usual suspects , isv , afm/map , is there air coming into the engine that is coming in after the afm/map if the sensor hasnt recognised it coming into the engine it wont supply enough fuel other than that im out of ideas...for example if one of your intake pipes is leaking air in it wont be supplying enough fuel to make the a/f right.

[4agte]

yup its running the stock ecu hrrm guess ill start poking arround

[4agte]

ok i found that the hose that isnt plugged in that picture unplugged the hunt is not as bad as when its plugged

[sideshow]

you should be able topiss off alot of the hoses on a 20v in yr case

2 do the idle up for power steering not needed

2 do the idle up for a/c probnot needed in yr case

1 is for extra brake booster hose not needed

thin one is for charcoal canister block or hook to canister

they look like shit with the vac hoses but if u sit and study it for abit they are not hard to understand

only one u really need is brake booster one on drivers side(in a corolla)

did u play with tps before hand

just mark it before adjusting
then try adjusting seeif it changes idle

but std 4ag in an aw11 used ot take ages to bleed when i used to do mechanical work

and i guess when fittin a 20v into an aw11 the water pipes would be allmixed up compared to std form

u can also try parkin car on steep driveway with back higher than front and running it like that with cap off to bleed water system

but if some vac lines are the prob just go over them all

[Adsport]

just on the temp sender issue, will the 16v sender screw into the same place where the 20v one is? ive managed to do this successfully on other toyo swaps to get gauges working