Check to see if the Circuit Open relay circuit is allowing the fuel pump to work properly. The relay itself may be stuffed, or somewhere in the wiring, or at a slim chance even the ECU.
Hi guys, got a twin turbo 92 Soarer recently, which was running when I first inspected it. Get it off the trailer at home, starts then dies. Keep trying, and I get it running enough to drive into the garage. It consistenly runs for 5-7 seconds when started, then dies out. It does this regardless of rpm, I can hold it at 4000rpm but when it gets around that 7sec runtime mark, it cuts out no matter what.
First time I started it today though, it just kept running. Once it was shut off it went back to the 7 second action.
Any ideas on where I should start with this thing?
Thanks,
Paul.
Check to see if the Circuit Open relay circuit is allowing the fuel pump to work properly. The relay itself may be stuffed, or somewhere in the wiring, or at a slim chance even the ECU.
had this prob afew times
check power at ecu to see if it drops off
then go from there
Am I checking for power output from the ecu to the injectors, plugs, or just anything?
ends how much u know about cars
check if ecu is loosing power
check if fuel pump is loosing power
coils etc
just test light the power input wire to ecu/coil/fuel pump? If so, easy. Built my old car from the ground up so I'm alright with working on them. I'm just crap with diagnostics/electrics.
well if u have had a look under the dash of an sc400 i would never own one due to if anyhting goes wrong its a massive job hehehee
but just check main powers and relay stuff for the ecu
Typical symptoms of a dying fuel pump ECU in a Soarer
Simple diagnosis is in the engine bay diagnostic connector, bridge FP to B+ terminals with a thick paperclip to bypass the FP ECU and try starting again.
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
I'll try that tomorrow manny. The Fuel pump and B+ terminals marked as such?
Thanks guys, I'm good with the Nissan side of things, but starting from scratch with this Toyota thing.
nissans are completely different.
and shitty.
fucken hate the fucken things, a nightmare to work on.
Elmo.
Elmo's a cranky young man
Nissans tend to lean your mixtures instead and kill your engine rather than shitting themself trying to idle the engine. I'd much prefer the toyota way, even thru it is annoying when it happens, atleast you have a working engine.
Go to a silvia dyno day. It's amazing how many lean out due to bad fuel pumps.
Toyota Corolla Conquest 2003 black manual 1ZZ-FE - Daily
Toyota Soarer GT-TL 1991 white auto 1JZ-GTE - [email protected] 1.587 60'
My JZZ30 SOARER
thats cause the factory fuel pump on stock silvias are only getting 9volts. Couple minutes of wiring and you can have 12volts at the pump.
Obviously causing it to work harder and flow more fuel![]()
PS. I think i need a name changeno longer IRB20 - I think JZ180 works
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Seen this twice now. I did the wiring for a 1j conversion into a gz20 soarer with the same prob and just did a 4agze into my own corolla which had exactly the same problem.
SOmewhere in the engine bay or under the dash there is a relay called the circuit opening relay. On the rolla this relay also did the starter motor. Check that the fuel pump side of it switching once the engine starts up. The problem is if that relay doesnt switch you FP runs at like half voltage for around 5 sec to prime the car then shuts off as it expecting the relay to switch and provide +12 to kick it into high mode.
Pretty much garantee thats ur issue. Other wise check for a =12 on the red wire at each injector plug. with the ignition ON.
good luck
BTW it is a negative that switched that circuit opening relay. On the rolla there was a relay inside the AFM that brought this relay to earth once the engine was sucking air thorugh it.
GL
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