Turbo Oil Supply

[feral4mr2]

yea, i would be clocking the turbo core around to at least 90 degress, it can angle in towards the sump/block a little too.

[Talasas]

Do you have a pic in car ?

That is in the car...


The angle the drain flange sits is not far from horizontal, about 5° at most. That photo just has a lot of parralax error in it

I'd rather not rotate the core, I don't have a reliable way of heating it and I'm not spending any more money on it to just gain a couple of degrees. It should be fine this way.

We'll see, I think to just get it up and running this should suffice.

[Talasas]

Here, I used a straight piece of wood to show you where it sits level with on the block

[30psi 4agte]

That pic wasnt up when i made my post

Heating the core to rotate it ?? are the bolts seized ?

Looking at that i think you have enough height in the drain for it to work ok.
Id make the effort to rotate it now rather than later. I know its a pain in the arse but if you will have probs (which are likely) it will be harder to later.

I can lend a hand if ya need.

[Talasas]

Yeah I've been told by a reliable Starlet owner that the best way to rotate it is to heat the exhaust housing evenly and gently. The core is only held together with that wrist band you see in the pic and being a tight fit, over time it will be stuck that way. There are no bolts on it or any of the housings (it's a Toyota CT9).

That being said it is tempting, and I thank you for the offer, perhaps if you have some free time we might be able talk about it, that is if you have some means of rotating it...

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to 30psi 4agte again.

[Talasas]

Alright, I've spent some time this weekend on the car. Here are some photos of the oil line as promised:

The whole assembly


Test fitting

[gianttomato]

Not much room from turbo oil outlet to top of sump.

Why not make a small tank for the turbo outlet oil to drain into. Then use a lifter pump to pump oil into sump when tank gets full. Lifter tank could be switched on and off using a oil level sender as found on a 2JZGE. Most expensive bit would be the hi temp lifter pump but you can get those on ebay.

[Cuzzo]

Where you going to mount the t-piece. On my 4age i put a simple angle bracket with a hole in it big enough for the oil pressure sender to screw onto the t-piece. Then bolted it to the block.

[Talasas]

The tee is mounted to the lower front rail, right next to the radiator. I found this was the nicest path that would keep it out of heat as much as possible and minimise vibration as it's not attached to the engine. Plus I wanted that room near the block for the crazy wastegate I need to modify.

gianttomato: I mention using a scavenge pump in my earlier posts. I want to avoid the cost, I may do it in future. The pumps are hard to find and the cheapest one I've seen so far is $150.

[gianttomato]

Then I'd use a 1" outlet mounted as high as possible on the sump and baffle the shit out of the sump where the outlet empties into the sump.

[Talasas]

Yeah, it's all been sorted now. Nice large fitting mounted high and baffle is adequate. Should work well once I get some insulation on it.

[rokusan]

i have stumbled on this thread, while looking for temp/ecu info...

i have plumbed my turbo oil feeds from the oil cooler/remote filter lines and thought this was ok?
i use bb turbos and have made 5/32 restrictors inside -4 speedflow fittings,
i also plumb my gauge sender directly into the back of the head? i thought this was ok as both our falcon and skyline do this as std. though off the block..

would be interesting to know exactly what the thread is in the head, i used thread tape and npt?

without sounding like a noob, why is the oil cooler lines reguarded as being low pressure? i thought the oil pump fed through the cooler to filter to crank then out the head? the head being the lowest pressure therefore the first place to loose pressure and best place to put a gauge??

[DX20VT]

without sounding like a noob, why is the oil cooler lines reguarded as being low pressure? i thought the oil pump fed through the cooler to filter to crank then out the head? the head being the lowest pressure therefore the first place to loose pressure and best place to put a gauge??

Not 100% sure but I believe that it is one of those internet roumers that have spread form something that was once tru.


some early model 4AGE's had factory oil coolers fitted to them.
The were feed from a pressure relief valve in the aluminuim housing between the filter and the block, and returned into the sump.

they only had oil flow throught them when the oil pressure was high, which is usually only high RPM,
and when they did as the other end of the cooler was open to the sump,
once it passed the pressure relief valve in the filter housing there was bugger all pressure.

If you run a thermostat type cooler you may find a similar thing, pressure may not always be there.
If you run a remote oil filter housing, there will always be pressure there though.

[rokusan]

cool cheers