GZE Rod = GTE Rod??? (Pistons Different)

[TheToyman75]

Kyle,

Unfortunatly the powers of comprehension are easily missed on a forum especially when people assume what they are reading rather than read, absorb, evaluate and assess for themselves. I just wanted to take the time out here to thank you for your patience and Input on what is a very little known engine in performance circles. Its much appreciated.

[twentyEight]

Kyle,

I also give thanks to you for your patience and input, and apologise if what I said was misconstrued...

I will have to go back out to strads again and take another look at the crank...

At the time I looked, it appeared to me that every journal had a counterweight, but I will re-assess!

[1jzracing]

cool thats all good info , i had no idea there was so much trouble getting bearings etc

and like you say at the end of the day its an easy mod really,

i have a gen1 gte in my car and a spare gen2 gte stored, is it likely the gen1 gte has the small rods? or is it only the early gze

the gen2 will have the counterweighted crank

i see a tough stroked 1g finding its way under the bonnet in the future

[TheToyman75]

1JZ Racing,

All information heavily suggests that ONLY the Gen 3 has the 44mm Big ends ! The Gen 1 & 2 1G-GTE enignes have the 42mm. I measured my Gen 2 Crank last night. Its 42mm.

As for bearings the 44mm Bearing issue has been uncovered by many a toymodder resulting in allot of engine swaps and very few rebuilds Generally it has been considered easier and cheaper to buy a replacement import engine than to rebuild a Gen 3 because of the cost of the bearings.

[twentyEight]

There must be a difference in GZEs also, as this GZE had 44mm big ends...

Were there different Gen GZEs?

[stradlater]

No no...

The big end bit is measured on the crank, not the rod, so what I have (and have a lot of) is 42mm big ends.

The other BIG big ends, the 45mm ones come on the counterweighted crank, which is what I've yet to find.

[twentyEight]

The inside of the big end on your GZE rods, with bearings on, measured 45mm... (Which should be 44mm)

How can the big end journal on the crank be 42mm?

[stradlater]

I don't think we measured accurately enough. I'll buy some verniers and then we'll have the exactly right measurements.

[love ke70]

lol, did you use a yard stick strad?

buy digital verniers, cant go wrong!

6BOOST, if i was you i would be sick of repeating myself too

[stradlater]

Thanks for your useful input again Mr Ke..

twentyeight: I'm not convinced that the ruler we used was quite accurate enough, is the short answer mate. I'm going to get the verniers onto it this weekend. Then I'll document and photograph, so there can be no question. :-)

[6BOOST]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments, and please don't ask less questions of think you are going to annoy me with them, it is only a very few things that have come up a few times, that I took the time today to explain the real reason you machine the turbo crank down, I don't think I'd gone into enough detail before.

I would also really like to see some tough 1G's out there, so if by giving information helps that happen, then an even better reason

Verniers are the go. But you can save yourself the hassle and just measure all the rods that came out of the engines, if you have pulled teh bearings out they should be 44-45mm, and if they are still in, then they will be 42mm like the crank. It is far easier to measure across the rod with a ruler and get close to accurate than guessing across a round crank journal. Try that and let us know what you have

6BOOST

[twentyEight]

It is far easier to measure across the rod with a ruler and get close to accurate than guessing across a round crank journal. Try that and let us know what you have

6BOOST

That's what we did to come up with 45mm with bearings fitted...

If they are 42mm then that ruler would have to be 3mm out!

[stradlater]

Ok, I did two things.

A) I traced out the center of the big end of the rod on paper. Without the bearing.

The diameter of the resulting circle was 44 mm.

B) I took the rod end off, and placed it vertically on a piece of paper. I then marked the inside edge of both ends of the rod cap facing the paper. I measured the distance between those ends.

44mm.

So I am quite happy to say that the rod I had here, and then every other rod I have is 44mm across, without the bearings. Nevermind what the crank is yet, because i haven't measured that.

Going by everything you've said so far, I think I'm right in saying that that is definately a small rod, just like you said yeah?

So the point for me now is, do I run with the std crank, or do I get the funky counterweighted crank. And for all the reasons you've already said, it makes perfect sense for me to get the counterweighted crank. I just have to figure out how to source one. :-)

Now, to order the bearings.. :-) Will PM you about that like I already have. :-)

[stradlater]

That's what we did to come up with 45mm with bearings fitted...

If they are 42mm then that ruler would have to be 3mm out!

I think either my eyes, or the ruler, or both were out.

I definately have 44mm bearingless big ends here, just like Kyle said.

[6BOOST]

Yes, looks like if all those are the same, you have 3 sets of small rods. I however at this point will shotgun any you do not use

Now is the time in which you will need to decide what to do. You can rebuild what you have with 4K rod bearings at little cost. If you want to make 400rwhp, and rev this thing to 8800-9000rpm, I highly recommend getting the counterweighted crank, and hey, for little extra money, maybe $400 over what you have, you can stroke it 80cc, which is nearly 5%, and get the counterweighted crank at the same time. Your harmonics will appreciate it a lot more I can promise you. If you are going auto, I would say absolutely use the counterweighted crank, as in my first 2 engines, harmonics were bad enough to undo the converter bolts twice with loctite on them and wreck 2 flex plates. HAd I not had to replace the engine and didn't know, it would have eventually let go destroying box, converter, and custom bell housing.

Kyle.