Hey Norbie, thanks for posting those pics.
Just curious, is there any reason (apart from clearing the bolt hole for the strut) that the bar is more towards the rear of the car?
Thanks
Joel
Here's a few pics of my custom-made mild-steel strut brace, which was designed and constructed in the manner described in shinybluesteel's first post:
http://www.norbie.net/Project2JZ/StrutBrace/default.htm
It cost bugger-all in materials, although the total cost was a fair bit higher due to my inability to weld, meaning I had to pay a pro to do it for me. The result was excellent though, easily the best chassis mod I've done for the money.
I plan to triangulate it to the firewall in the future, but I'm not sure I'll be able to do that with the massif 2JZ in the way.
PS. rear strut braces do SFA, at least in an MA61.![]()
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Hey Norbie, thanks for posting those pics.
Just curious, is there any reason (apart from clearing the bolt hole for the strut) that the bar is more towards the rear of the car?
Thanks
Joel
Nice idea, I like your thinking!
I wouldn't, but if you are really worried then weld the ends of the bar shut.Originally Posted by TurboRA28
When you get the plates made up, do you think maybe you could save the design/sketches and share with the rest of us?
Yup I can draw it up.. the plates themselves as mentioned are sooo simple.. just a 140mm circular bit of metal, with a 100mm hole cut in the centernothing more to it..
you could weld one end, then pour in a little fish oil (careful not to touch the end you are pouring it from...), then weld other end.. then turn the bar every which way to coat the inside...... should work ok...Originally Posted by TurboRA28
as for rust tho, with thick wall tube, it will take a long time to rust out from inside, esp if there is no moisture to begin with (perhaps stick it in front of a heater for a few hours to get nice and hot before welding??)
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
In regard to the firewall triangulation / stiffness of the firewall - the factory strut brace on my celica bolts to the centre of the firewall, but there is another brace behind the firewall that extends from the centre out to the A pillars. Would it be worth the triangular section if the firewall isn't braced too?
Last edited by AndyTTR; 18-01-2006 at 04:14 PM. Reason: spellung
Ive been thinking of doing this since i got my car lowed....
http://www.phpbbforfree.com/forums/a...-about859.html
Time is priceless yet it costs us nothing.You can do anything you want with it but you can't own it.You can spend it but you can't keep it.And once you've lost it, there is no getting it back, it's just gone."
this one is heaps better...........
http://cmy510.tripod.com/strutbrace.doc
just save the file...
Time is priceless yet it costs us nothing.You can do anything you want with it but you can't own it.You can spend it but you can't keep it.And once you've lost it, there is no getting it back, it's just gone."
It's funny you mention that considering Glen mentioned that bang for buck it was one of the best things he did for his car.Originally Posted by Norbie
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Needs to be copied and pasted, just saving link doesn't work, gives you a tripod file about remote loadingOriginally Posted by puzzle man
![]()
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
Doesnt seem to work at all for me? Maybe if someone's downloaded it they could email it to me ?
[email protected]
Thanks!
Done. Not a bad article, makes it seem simple - my only drama is how one gets the length right prior to bending it?Originally Posted by TurboRA28
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
Thankyouvery good doco that.
The best adjusting mechanism ive seen was to cut out approx 80mm of the tube in the middle of your brace, then source a 200mm piece of bar with a slightly larger diameter than your tube ID.
Weld an appropriate sized nut in the middle of the piece of bar, then tap a normal thread on one side and reverse thread on the other. The tap the normal and reverse female threads into the open tube ends.
Screw adjusting bar into tube to desired tension on strut brace. Its a beautiful "one spanner" adjuster.
As far as triangulation goes, my understanding is that with a tower to tower brace you CAN (not always) experience walk in opposite directions. This being because the tower separation is set, so under heavy cornering if one tower is pushing back dramatically, the brace can make the other try to push the other way - the centre point of the brace being the axis of rotation if that makes sense.
Triangulating to the firewall prevents this. However this is best done from each tower as to weld one bar from the centre of the brace to the firewall basically just holds the "axis of rotation" in place and still allows movement moreso than does a bar back to the firewall from each tower.
i will have to rewrite it give me 1hr....
edit: so the link works?Originally Posted by TurboRA28
Last edited by puzzle man; 18-01-2006 at 05:04 PM.
Time is priceless yet it costs us nothing.You can do anything you want with it but you can't own it.You can spend it but you can't keep it.And once you've lost it, there is no getting it back, it's just gone."
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