Forged or Not, how to tell? 4a-gze Vs 1g-gze

[6BOOST]

I have standard GZE rods in mine with a turbo crank, they aren't a straight fit though, the GZE rods are smaller and wider on the big end. I've been through this with a few others, but the reason I did it, is the 1G has harmonic issues at 9000-9250rpm. Nothing for anyone to stress about, but if you've tried it, you'll know what I mean, like balancers coming off etc. The series 2/3 turbo engines have a fully counterweighted crank that is a very nice bit of kit. Now thats all good and well, and they fit straight in, and the turbo rods are just as strong and big as the GZE rods, but the issue is bearing choice.........

You see the ONLY bearings you can buy for the turbo big ends are stock toyota, or cheap jap ones. They fail very quickly under extreme pressure and revs. However, the GZE rods have the exact same big end as a toyota 4K, and King make very good bearings, and for the 4K big end. I basically went that way to have some good reliable and performance rated bearings in there, as I was damn sick of destroying big ends. The plus side is that becuase the GZE rods are wider, and smaller, the crank can be machined both ways for a perfect fit, and clearanced correctly at the same time.

Now before everyone starts searching for the same combination, remember, I'm talking about anything over 8800rpm, 24-25psi of boost, and 480hp, I would be going this route. Up to that point, I'd stick with the normal rods and stock style bearings. For those interested, I would be fully confident in running either GZE or GTE rod in a 650hp 9500rpm screamer. They are MASSIVE, extremely well made in all the right places, very large bolts, and the only reason for changing them was that I wanted longer rods, and I'm aiming for at least 730hp with the new engine, and prob 9500rpm/34psi. So yes Strad, I'm building a new 2.2 litre engine with shimless valvetrain and 4mm oversize valves, see what this puppy can do

6BOOST

[6BOOST]

Out of interest, has anyone done any research or have a definate actual first hand account of using or finding an ARP rod bolt from another engine that will fit the 1G?? I have found studs for everywhere else bar rod bolts so far. I won't need them in the near future, but am building up a 1G database for everyone to refer to for parts and what fits/can be used in them, having rods bolts for reference would be great.

Cheers.............................6BOOST

[stradlater]

Twentyeight - Well come on then, build up my other 1g while we do mine and you can have a built one at the same time!

Keep in mind though, tha'ts 9600rpm in a drag engine, that's not done every day AND, it's not entirely standard, as Kyle said, but it's doable, it's exactly what I'm doing infat.

[stradlater]

Damn you. 4mm oversize valves.. I was hoping to shoot for 1 or 2 mm oversize if I could find them.. ;-)

I"ll be sticking with what you say, but probably not at the level you are, so don't worry, no chance of me overtaking you. :-)

[6BOOST]

The only oversize valves available are 4ag stuff, which are 3-4mm too long and require the collet groove to be recut. Give me a call when you need them, I can supply you with some cheaper stainless items that are about $25 each with the collet grooves cut ready to drop in, 1mm smaller than mine and about $20 each cheaper . Although if you use oversize valves, you WILL have to get the pistons flycut, they hit the stock valve reliefs in standard form with big cams.

6BOOST

[stradlater]

I shall be contacting you over time as I need to get bits, all the bits your talking about are the bits I need, so i'll be working through you over time to get this thing done.

First thing will be the modified block.