GZE parts onto smallport?

[Cuzzo]

Could i use the standard GZE parts (eg charger, intake, cooler,)
link here for sale: http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1790
on my smallport 4age?

What would i need in addidtion. Could i run stock ecu or even run GZE ecu?

[The Witzl]

you *can* run a GZE ecu - but the timing would give you some hideous pinging and the fueling would be out.

I've run a smallport 4age with a turbo and gze ecu and electronics.... but i used an emanage to help things out. I do not recommend this as a good solution!

A microtech is your cheapest answer

[Cuzzo]

so how does the charger work. belt driven obviously but does the air get forced into the TB or straight into the intake manifold?

[Cuzzo]

ive tried searching but nothing that i can understand. <--- NOOB

[TooF]

the air goes

cleaner -> throttle -> supercharger -> intercooler -> inlet plenum (no throttle) so the throttle plate is before the charger.

[Cuzzo]

could i adapt something onto the part where the charger connects to the intake plenum and bolt it to the old TB part.

Finally i have found a pic of the charger and its all becomming clear.

[Starfire]

There are several different versions of the 4AGZE that vary on port size, supercharger pulley, metering, ignition and oil squirters:

Port Size:
Big port (AW11, early AE92)
Small port (late AE92 and everything else)

Supercharger Pulley:
125mm (early)
120mm (late (more boost))

Metering:
AFM (AW11, early AE92)
MAP (late AE92 and everything else)

Ignition:
Dizzy (AW11, early AE92)
Coil Packs (late AE92 and everything else)

Oil Squirters:
No (early)
Yes (late)

It appears that these changes were made in sets, but I have seen some odd combinations which may be a result of Toyota introducing them in a phased approach during a production run or aftermarket changes made by the owner at some stage. Obviously as the engines were changed the ECU was modified to work with the engine that was available.

If you want to bolt on a supercharger setup to a stock 16v make sure that you have the entire set up. You will need the 4AGZE inlet manifold as the 16v one will not fit with the supercharger in place (the charger sits fairly high). Ensure that you have all the brackets and pulleys too as these can be almost impossible to find seperately and $$$ to have made up. Note that the alternator, power steering and AC compressor all get moved around to accomodate the charger. If you want to keep them on your engine you will need those brackets too.

I would suggest that the easiest way to set this up would be to put ALL of the supercharger gear on to your engine from the throttle body to the inlet manifold, hard wire the supercharger clutch so that it is always on (or put a switch somewhere for it; either a manual toggle type switch or maybe a momentary type on the accelerator somewhere so that it acts like a "kick down" on an auto) and then match the crank pulley size with that of the supercharger so that you make about 5 PSI.

If it is done that way the stock ECU should be able to handle the increase in airflow and power without too much trouble.

Alternately you might be better off selling your NA and purchasing a complete 4AGZE engine (or half cut) as in the long run it will be easier and cheaper. If your car is a FWD you will also score bigger breaks, bigger half shafts, a stronger gearbox and possibly an LSD with the cut. If you have a sprinter or something you can always sell those bits to someone with a rolla to further reduce your costs

[4agte]

actually i believe the afm bigport ae92 gze's were coilpack aswell not dizzy

[wiso]

i did this exact thing on my old AW11, i had a bigport na and bolted all the sc gear onto it, it went well, very well.

ok heres it goes:
you you get everything it is not problem, you will need the charger, mounting bracket, intake manifold, the pipe section from throttle body to the charger, injectors, possibly fuel rail and reg, ecu, knock sensor, afm (if that modle), and the rear water pipe that goes into the water pump (yes believe it, as the end is differant and has to clear the charger) you will also need to make a bracket to put the alternator on the front of the engine. I am pretty sure thats it.

when i did it i uesd the standard GZE ecu with no problem i ran 10BTDC and it ran fine, this thing is because you are using a 4age crank pulley it is smaller than the GZE pulley, so you will only hit about 5-6psi boost, doesn't sound like much but the ge is higher compression than the gze so it will be just as goot if not a little better, you really don't want to run much more than that. You will need to make a nice wiring loom though as alot of things are differant. And make sure you get a knock sensor, that will be real handy. if you run a better cooler than standard you will have much less chance of the engine detonating, as the intake air will be a lot cooler, if you do that you should be able to run more boost. thats all i can think of atm, if you want anything else, let me know

[The Witzl]

i'll get a picture up for you of the 4agze intake system MINUS the charger.... it's hideous

... but it will help you understand how it all works

[Cuzzo]

people thanks alot for al this info.
i guess im better of with a "proper" setup instead of cutting corners. gze box and shafts would be nice to so i may as well do it properly.
i can handle blowing motor but box, shafts and everything else will also take its toll making it more expensive in the long run.

You guys know what its like try and spend as little money as possible and you end up spending more than doing it normally.(Witzl's AE-71 is a exception )
REPING UP!

Witzl those pics would be very nice too. Thanx everyone again

[Starfire]

Where you can get away with doing stuff like this cheap is if you manage to get all the bits really cheaply and/or you can do almost all of the work yourself.

What most people forget is that when it comes to engine conversions there are generally a lot more costs involved than just the cost of the engine. Swapping engines of the same series makes things a lot easier/cheaper (4age replacing a 4ac or 4agze replacing a 4age) but there will still be things that you need to buy that werent planned on. A halfcut/wreck as a starting point is a big help here.

Something you may not have considered is a 20v. They are suprisingly cheap and make decent power. Changing the cams and a decent exhaust gives even more. They kinda suck when it comes to torque though.

[wiso]

your box c52 i presume? should be able to handle it fine, hell mine did, and i also had a standard 4age clutch, even that was fine, i launch it hard a few times and it went alright, mind you mine was in a mr2, so you have alot more stress on the box than a fwd does. so long as you don't flat shift it and dump the clutch from like 4K pluss all the time it should be fine.

mines still good the new owner is rallying the mr2 i did this one, now with an sc14 with 11psi boost and no cooler, and its still running bloody well, even the box and clutch are still fine