How to: Supra MA70 rear discs to Hilux

[1JZ~lux]

It may not be a waste of money if the MA70 MC&B is a bigger bore/ bigger booster.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Peter - here it is. This is fucking hard to explain - please wait for my pictures before attempting it - but ill try and explain it as best as i can.

Yeah it isnt the easiest task to do, but heres what i had to do:

Die grind out where the booster shaft goes through the firewall - the Yn57 booster had a central shaft, the ma70 one is upper of the centre. its fiddly, but it works - i dont know if youd have to do this on an rn85 - it could be different.

Now there are two unions down near the drivers side suspension on the chassis rale, above the chassis number (yn57 anyway) - the rear one has one in, one out - for the rear brake. The front one has two outlets - one to the rear of the car, one to the front brake.

what i used was the ma70 brake valve which is attaced to the booster - its a green coloured thing on mine, with the lines already connected into the MC. This then gives you your front/ rear seperation. I got a t piece union, also from the ma70 and connected the front out from the valve to it. i then put the front line that runs accross the car to the pass side into the top of it. There was one leftover line when pulling out the lines on the chassis rail (it had two loops in it), so i used it to go down directly into the drivers side calliper soft line - i discarded the one in, one out union altogether. so that finishes fronts

Rears - i cut off and re welded the one in, two out union to the plate it was on - ie shifted it from the front of the bracket to the rear, used the existing line still hanging there as the feed and connected it into the brake valve rear out - the valve i referred to last paragraph. problem solved..and you got a gucci looking alloy MC and black booster

Ill get photos friday for you....

[Robbos_Toyotas]

It may not be a waste of money if the MA70 MC&B is a bigger bore/ bigger booster.

it is both of the above

[o_man_ra23]

owen, the brackets are easy as piss to make if you make a template....get a large chunk of 10mm oe larger steel plate, make a cardboard templayte and use an oxy and or grinder to make your bracket shape, but you need an accurate drill for the drilling.

yeah its weird hoqw the hilux is balanced...ur lucky with the 23 having existing lines that are correct - makes it a lot easier

Dunno how lucky I am... Ive got to change all the mounting points on the Diff... brake lines are easier.
Why would I go to that much trouble when GT has already done the hard yards, all I gotta do is wait for him to be ready, and pass money to him... and for the amount of time it would take me, and the cost it would save, its not worth me doing it.

Cheers, Owen

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Dunno how lucky I am... Ive got to change all the mounting points on the Diff... brake lines are easier.
Why would I go to that much trouble when GT has already done the hard yards, all I gotta do is wait for him to be ready, and pass money to him... and for the amount of time it would take me, and the cost it would save, its not worth me doing it.

Cheers, Owen

thats all well and good as long as youre not in any hurry....

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, gotta buy a house, move into it and rust repair&paint my brothers car in the meantime... plus have an engagement party... so no huge hurry.

Cheers, Owen

[infotechplus]

My MA70 rotors are being done this week and I should have them back Tuesday afternoon, enlarged centre and the pad surface skimmed.

Just waiting for GT to come good with the caliper brackets (nudge nudge)

Photos, as usual, as they come to hand - stay tuned!

Cheers,

Peter

[Pube]

Is there any prob using high tensile bolts to hold the backing plate, rather than sourcing the longer studs?

[infotechplus]

Is there any prob using high tensile bolts to hold the backing plate, rather than sourcing the longer studs?

I was thinking exactly the same thing. However, the studs are a press fit initially so don't know if that will make a difference.

Cheers,

Peter

[o_man_ra23]

I think that it will be harder to get a socket or spanner on the head of a bolt. If anyone discovers otherwise, im all ears, but the other problem is that it creates a point of movement for the housing, increasing shear forces on the bolts and making them more likely to distort/break over time.

Cheers, Owen

[Pube]

I will be doing a smiliar brake conversion to this for my diff but I will be using commodore rear brakes. Its basically the same story other than making up a 10mm spacer to fit between the bearing and the backing plate. I will try some bolts instead of studs and let you all know how it goes.

[o_man_ra23]

Shame on you Pubey for bringing Commonwhore blasphemy into Toyota's god like machinery. Let us know how it goes though. Oh, and you need to re drill the commo brakes unless you want that puss 5 by 120 PCD

Cheers, Owen

[Pube]

yes I know commodore brakes!! I am using them because they are the same as the disk brakes on the borgwarner diffs on rt142 avante's. The only difference being is that the corona disks use an aluminum backing plate and the commodore uses a steel backing plate. The corona alloy ones have a bit more meat on them as well making it a bit too tight fir to fit over the hilux bearing. Also by using commodore brakes I can use the corona disk which is same as commodore but already 4 stud plus handbrake and brake lines all bolt up which makes life so much easier! I should make a tech doc....

[Robbos_Toyotas]

the reason you need studs vs bolts is the clearance on the hand brake, the studs offer a very small head thickness, therefore clear the hb, a bolt head being thicker would not clear it.
edit, even when using studs, i had to machine out the hb cast iron carrier on the backing plate.

Another way is to use hi tensile booker rod tapped into the hb cast iron carrier as your top two bolts....i have a metre of such stuff if anyone wants to buy it lol.

[infotechplus]

Woot! Just picked up my "new" MA70 rotors and they've done a really clean job. Mick tells me they machined the centre hole a couple of thou over just to make sure they'd slip on without having to resort to violence.



So to match up with the calipers I gave the rotors three coats of the same colour blue after giving them a light sand and towel done with W&GR. Should look really neat with the black backing plates and bue calipers.





and here's a closeup of one of them. I decided to do the vanes as well. Don't know how long it will last but the Septone Brake Caliper and Drum Paint is supposed to be good for high temperatures, and the back brakes won't be doing as much work so we'll see.



So that means I have everything now to finish the job. Just waiting for GT's caliper bracket!

I don't know whether I mentioned it earlier or not, but I got stainless braided brake lines made up too. My friend Bob who's doing the wiring with me gave me a few lengths of it so all I needed was to cut it to size and put fittings on one end (as the other ends already had fittings):



The short line is the driver's side; the longer line for the passenger side of the 'Lux.

Cheers,

Peter