Back to topic,
Yes but .1 gm would be sufficient. Match up new pistons - pins etc - factory spec or twice as good.Marc - Keeping in mind before the car was stripped down the motor was running fine and the only change has been the addition of the forged pistons (which I have weighed and are all matched in weight to within .002 of a gram..)
For that money I kind of see it as a pointless (could be very wrong) exercise as the motors come balance from the factory..
Yes you've got to be on the lookout. If and when I needed it I'd be finding a place that had a wiz bang machine - drill & fill in place - computer etc - I'd want to see it. But to break down a factory bottom end when the engine was running smooth would be nuts and you could end up worse off - not only in the hip pocket.YelloRolla: If I suspected that MY engine machinist would tickle the crank for the $$$ - then I would get another machinist.
You might not be able to 'fix' it but some compensation can be made with balance shafts (remember were not talking inline sixes) at the extra cost of weight and parts etc I remember all the whoo ha about the Astron (2.6 - ?) when it first came out and it was a smooth engine for a 4.SillyCarS - even further to the point (now that we're getting down to detail) if you have four or less inline inline cylinders there are going to be secondary vibrations that cant be cancelled, no matter what. any amount of enginering thus far wont fix it. all we do is smooth out the primary cylinder fires as much as we can and balance the pistons, rods, crank, etc
Given the mass and size/diameter of the flywheel and clutch assembly - and as these components are routinely pulled - there is good reason to pay attention to balance and fit and spend money there. There's also your feet to consider - a flywheel shattering at 8k rpm can make a bit of a mess of things, and why scatter shields are used. Precision doweling (on configs that don't have precision location) on flywheels makes sense to me.I had it balanced, which is prolly not worth a shit now that I put a twin plate on it - as I cannot see the intermediate plate being able to be balanced (as it can move and unlikely gets clamped at the same point each time). The thing is - if the crank and rods were out and the flywheel is out and the intermediate clutch plate are out - then the whole shooting match could be very out of balance (if all of the weight is lined up). If it is balanced, then the available tolerance is reduced.
My 3T vibrated noticeably more after a stock cheep clutch housing upgrade independent of a flywheel resurfacing - it should have been done all together at the same shop, and even though it is a daily drive there was a lost opportunity and lost $$$'s
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