4agze running very rich / fouling plugs

**Necros** · 28-01-2007, 09:57 PM

I've disconnected the cold start injector and that has made a big difference to the idle and general running... It's still pretty damn rich.

The water temp sensor is reading correctly. And the only error code I have is 51, there is no A/C though.

I'll go about getting the OX sensor put in, but this shouldnt make any difference to in gear/acceleraion fueling should it? And closed loop would only kick in the idle wire is grounded wouldn't it?

**Necros** · 28-01-2007, 10:02 PM

I agree with all of the comments about going for an aftermarket ECU. I know I won't get the full potential out of the engine with the standard ECU. However the plan is to get the engine running with the std hardware, get a decent driveline and better suspension then focus on the ECU/tuning... It's not a daily driver so I can put up with small gremlins...

**Sprinter** · 28-01-2007, 10:03 PM

Closed loop at idle and cruise (and with the jumper wire

) as it searches for Stoichiometric. Open in WOT situations.

A friend from Canberra ran your AFM/DLI 4AGTE using the RWD intake manifold with custom turbo manifold and IC setup. All they did was add an FPR and, I think, adjusted the flap on the AFM (not 100% sure on that as it was 9 years ago). Ask YLD-16L - he had the car

Denis

**Cameron_Datto** · 28-01-2007, 10:24 PM

If you disconnected the cold start injector by removing the fuel to the injector , and things have improved , i would make sure your main 4 injectors are not dirty and dribbling ,

make sure that the injector isn`t dribling fuel under high vacumm eg idle . , i have struck this before with a dirty cold start injector . what i did was , i removed the cold start injector from the manifold and blocked up the hole with tape and ran the engine , with the fuel line still on the injector . i if the engine running improved or i could see fuel leaking from the injector , i got the injectors cleaned . People over look the cold start injector when getting there injectors cleaned . i have made a habit of getting the cold start injector cleaned when the other injectors are cleaned .

**YLD-16L** · 29-01-2007, 10:07 AM

About 4 or 5 years ago I ran my car for a bit over a year as a 4AGTE with the factory ECU - not one single issue! It drove with the same factory ECU characterstics as it did when it was supercharged. It was limited to about 150rwkw (It ran a 12.9@103mph) as you are very limited in what changes you can make without effecting the ECU.

Originally Posted by BeRad

adding a turbo to a afm that wasnt designed for it doesnt work, because even when youve backed off the turbo is still spinning therefore pushing air through the sensor. And it makes it run stupidly rich

Mine worked fine and didn't exhibit any of those undesirable characterstics you describe.

Originally Posted by sideshow

no matter what u do with std ecu it wil be shit and not 100%

Mine was as good as factory so that is not quite true, if done correctly he is only changing from a belt driven compressor to an exhaust driven compressor, there is no voodoo magic going on anywhere else

.

If chasing more power than around 150rwkw though then I'd suggest an aftermarket ecu.

BUT, if this car is not running well now when it most certainly could/should be, why throw another factor into an already problematic setup by using an aftermarket ECU and hoping that will correct the situation when the actual problem is not known

Originally Posted by Necros

It's not a daily driver so I can put up with small gremlins...

You won't and shouldn't have to if it gets sorted out and setup up correctly. Gremlins are for cars that have been poorly setup, people who accept "gremlins" as part of a modded car just didn't try hard enough

I'm not familiar with the VN throttle body but I assume it has a TPS or the TPS from the 4A throttle is attached and working correctly with the ECU?

Does it look like someone has farked around with the airflow meter settings in the past? (the cover usually has the sealant damaged or resealed if it has been tampered with).

Good luck with what ever you choose to do ECU wise.

**Necros** · 29-01-2007, 01:36 PM

Well hearing your success has cetainly improved my outlook on this project...

The four main injectors have all been reconditioned, the cold start injector has not been cleaned/reco'd. I will check it for dripping tonight. I did disconnect it and that made a very noticable difference to idle and the car is quite drivable in the lower rev range/low load situations now.

As for the TPS, I don't have a IDL switch in place as the TPS sensor does not have an IDL switch. I am going to jimmy up a rudementry switch and connect the OX sensor shortly though. From what I remember if the IDL wire is grounded then IDL is on right?

One of my bigger concerns is that I am not running the ABV (VSV Bypass), ACV (VSV Bleed) or the FPU (VSV Fuel Presure Up) components and I think this may be causing my issues....??

I also removed the S/C cluch switch wiring.

Any idea on how the GZE ECU knows that the engine is on boost? When mine is boosting and around 6k it backfires like nothing else...

**Necros** · 03-02-2007, 05:19 PM

*UPDATE*

Hey guys... I've now got the car running properly. It runs fine with the bigger throttle body, afm and the removal of all of the S/C related electronics.

I've put the problem down to a combination of things... The cold start injector was putting in way too much fuel (possibly wired incorrectly) so I have disconnected it. The timing was WAY out (for some reason my inductive timing light doesnt want to work on the GZE). And the earth for the igniter was not so good, it's VERY picky.

So a big thank you goes out to you guys (esp YLD-16L), and it just goes to show that you CAN turbo an AFM gze with the standard ECU and several changes to the setup.

Now some fine tuning and a dyno run!