I always assumed it was mandatory, but when it boils down to it even if its not mandatory, its foolish not to..
hey fella I have a 28 with a 1ggte and was wondering if it is manditory to upgrade the braking system - from what I have found on this site and here - http://www.dotars.gov.au/transport/s.../vsb_ncop.aspx
it is not necessary to upgrade as long as it passes the engineers brake test?
Anymore insight or experience in gettig a engineers cert for my RA28 would be appreciated.
Also that link above may be very useful to alot of u converters out there, Cheers Rosie
I always assumed it was mandatory, but when it boils down to it even if its not mandatory, its foolish not to..
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
not manditory if it passes braking test (probly would as the weight increase is minor)
I would do it, even if its just good rotors and pads and making sure all the lines and fluid is good
yeah u dont have to 1 the pickest engineers u will find and he is a text book of rules if u want to 100% know about anything his name is athal mullen and his business is mullen automotive engineering his is at cardiff in newy. his number is 02 49568030![]()
If it passes the engineer's brake test, then you don't need to do it. But the advice you'll get from 90% of the people on this forum would be to do it anyway.
There are some pretty easy bolt on upgrades that people here have done, so you won't be breaking (braking?) new ground, and the first time you overcook it with the increase in power, you'll be thankful you did.
Put it this way, my 57kW ATW turbo diesel could keep up with a modded 130kW ATW Corolla Sportivo along the Putty rd (not down the straights, but they aren't that long) and I've never posted the slowest lap on the days I've been at Wakefield.
You also don't want to kick yourself the day you run into the back of someone after spending your time & money on your car...
Too True. I also upgraded my front brakes after i did my 7M conversiom, well worth the while.
MA61 Part Numbers, Upgrades and General Infomation <--- Clicky Clicky
righto then what is the go with the hopper stoppers kit? can get bolt on kit for $1240 delivered to my door - couple of hours later all done. I figure less hastle and in the long run better? The other options i've seen suggest that the hoppers ould be the way to go.
cheers Rosie
the hoppers kits are very very good.
i've a few friends with these kits (one on a V6 gemini) with very good success.
Generally the engineer you use will want to see an upgrade of some description regardless of weather it passes or not.
From a saftey point of view the factory brakes will stop the car once and once only in a hi speed braking situation. This satisfys the rules but doesn't help you on turn 2.
the hopper stopper brake setup is value for money if you don't want to put any research and development into other options. you may save a few $$$ if you look at some of the other options that are being hinted at on these forums. It comes down to you knowledge and how quickly you want it done.
Personally I'm exploring the S13 Strut upgrade and nissan brakes, the brake conversion side of things is a little cheaper, but there is the added cost on top of that of finding the struts and sorting out steering and lower control arm issues. but there is alot more work involved with my plans.
Cheers
Simon
Beige.... The new Black!!!
Hoppers stoppers are definately good, it was designed on my mates car and hauled up his ra23 with no problems at all.
I have the hilux/peugot upgrade on mine and that also stops the car very well and at less than half the price of the hoppers stoppers kit!!
I guess it just comes down to how much you want to spend and whether you could be bothered doing it!!
I was also in the car when the engineer did the brake test and lets just say there is no chance the stocky brakes will pass. The test is 10 consecutive stops from 60km/h (just to wam them up) and then 3 or 4 from 100km/h and each time it has to pull atleast 0.9g. The stock brakes start fading after about the 3rd stop from 60km/h......
The Corona/Pug/Hilux converison is the way to go if you want good brakes on the cheap.
The parts are cheap, easy to get, and there is plenty of info on these forums on how to set them up.
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Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
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How'd it go with certification? I am in the process of this conversion myself, and my engineer tells me that the best way is to provide reason as to why standard brakes are sufficient. He says that testing of an upgraded brake system (although a good thing) costs around $2500.
I can't justify the cost of that test plus the cost of the brakes. I think I'll choose to upgrade rotors/pads etc, maybe a GT disc rear end.
Hey Chuck,
it appears the rules here in NSW at least have changed in tha reguard.
I spoke to Athol the other day about brakes for dads 2j cressy we just finished. we have stockers on it, nissan/falcon set up and fully recoed jzx81 set up too....
his answer was to leave the stock ones - other wise we require full testing. Private race track hire. 20 stops or something silly from 160km/h with 1 min break between etc etc... something like that anyway...
Same engineer signed off my celica with hilux set up a few years ago - and i required it for legality then...
There was another thread on here - i think peter goudie started it, about some of the changes.
Oh - ad the cost suggested to me was dearer than $2500 for the testing...
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
Hi,
Alternatively have a DOTAR certified upgrade put into your vehicle, such as Hoppers Stoppers.
seeyuzz
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