Electrical Problem

[AutoXCelica]

Hi guys.

Have a problem with my RA60. Has a 21R-C and before u all payout on me I am keeping it until i can drive the wheels off it before doing up a older celica for rally/autocross.

Aight. Here's the symptoms. Starts fine with fully battery. Charge lights flashes on and off and can hear clicking sound (relay going). Initially when the problem occurred if i raised the rpm up the light would stop flashing and would be fine... now it ticks the whole time. After driving a while if i park it it wont start. Low bat voltage. Solenoid just clicks.

Here is what i have done:

Bought a multimeter (recommend to every newb hobby-mechanic)
Alternator not charging bat when running...
Checked all related fuses, fuseable links and relays... all seem fine...
Checked voltage to alternator with ignition on... should be 12v... get f all...so no voltage to alt...

I need inspiration from ppl who have had similar problems as to where to start looking for the cause... bad earth...? bad wire...? Why would the relay and charge light flash? Like how could a bad earth come in and out repeatedly?... periodically?... Also i am having trouble identifying the earths for the system based on my wiring diags in my haynes book... Could anyone give me a better description of where they are located... With especial interest in the ign/charge system...

To reiterate the engine is a 21R-C and has an internally regulated alternator which i dont think is the prob...

Cheers

Steve0

[Cressida91GLX]

Change the alternator. What makes you certain that the alternator is not gone? It usually wears out the brushes. so either put new brushes in to the alternator or replace it.

[scootaphill]

Hi guys.

To reiterate the engine is a 21R-C and has an internally regulated alternator which i dont think is the prob...

Cheers

Steve0

test alt power output (at the alt) whilst motor running... no power output reg stuffed.
is there is power check the wiring from the alt to batt

theres a start
cheers

[ndgcpr]

um it seems to me that the alternator is in trouble, the earth of the alt should be the case of it, stick the multimeter on a scratched (just with a screw driver or something) secoin of the case and to the charging output, it no volt then i think it is sick, although you should still be able to read the battery voltage on it.

There are 2 circuits, one charges the battery and one controlls the light. so maybe a dirty contact or something could be causeing flashing of the charge light.

But before going on i would disconnect the wire from the alt to the batt and measuer the alternator with no load on it. if you good voltage, then i would connect it back and check again, it may also be a battery problem.

[AutoXCelica]

Hey guys, Thanks for the quick replies.

I have checked the voltage coming out of the alt with the engine running... only like 1.5-2.0v...
I have changed the alternator already with a 'newer' one from a wrecker... had the same symptoms so i made and assumption that it was not the prob. But the fact that the alt is not outputting at least the bat voltage has me suss on the wiring or a bad earth in the circuit from the bat to the alt...

ndgcpr: could you be more descriptive? i have a haynes book with some analysis steps. What i did what i think u are suggesting... i tested the voltage across the alternator with the ignition turned on... was only 1.5-2v... the connections are not separate but are contained in a single plug... so i disconnected the plug and checked the voltage across the bat and earth connections...

Whats the best way to do a connectivity test between bat and alt?

Once again, cheers for the quick replies...

Cheers,

Steve0

[sideshow]

it could be that the wrecker alternator is fukt aswell

just spend the money and get a reco or new one

a flat battery 3 hours from home can cost u a shitload more than a reco alt

if yr alt was charging u should have around 13.5 to 14.5 v output at the big terrminal

at the battery u should have no less than 0.5 volts less than what the alternator is puttin out

[oldcorollas]

at least open up the old one (that is now out) and check the brush length..

it is most likely brushes (until you rule it out ) which is maybe a $10 part and an hour of your time.

[BradW]

You should have battery voltage at the alternator main battery terminal (usually a thick white wire on Toyotas) with or without ignition on. If this is not there then the alternator will never charge. Check your main fuses/ fusible links.

[AutoXCelica]

Thanks guys... I plan to have a look at the old alternator tomoz oldcorollas...

I dont have voltage with or without ignition on and i have checked all the fuses and fuseable links already. A work mate said that his mate had a similar electrical problem with a VW Golf and it was a faulty fuse box. This one is a bit dodgy... not confident in its continuity... might check it out tomoz...

Any other suggestions guys. Thanks for the help...

Steve0

[BradW]

Get yourself a nice thick peice of wire (6mm should do) and run a temp wire from the battery + terminal to the alternator main battery terminal and recheck charging. If it charges like this then check and repair the battery wiring to the alternator.

[clubagreenie]

Checked voltage to alternator with ignition on... should be 12v... get f all...so no voltage to alt..

First thing to fix. Unless the alt sees the state of the elec system it won't know to charge more or less. If this is has no voltage then constant high charge output would probably be the case which probab ly fried something inside.

Get inputs working then replace alt with reco/new.

Dare I say Profit??

[AutoXCelica]

Step 3: Profit ! haha

First thing to fix. Unless the alt sees the state of the elec system it won't know to charge more or less. If this is has no voltage then constant high charge output would probably be the case which probab ly fried something inside.

I was told by Cruzida that if the alternator aint gettin at least 12v in then it dont produce charge. He compared it to an amplifier. I am not certain of the details... it is certainly not my strongpoint...but i am learning So how could the alternator "fry" something if this is the case?

I cant wait to have mechanical problems !!! haha...

Thanks guys,

Steve0

[clubagreenie]

The alternator output varies with load. This is achieved by sensing system voltage. If it sees low voltage then it will crank up the output. So if the alternator will be charging all the time trying to keep up with demand that just isn't there. With 0 volts I've seen one system that had an overload protection sort of thing but it was well above 21r spec.

Attached basic diagram of internal and external alt that may help. Colors may be different but markings are usually the same.

[AutoXCelica]

FIXED !

BradW: Did what u suggested and the alternator charges fine. So the problem lay in the circuit from the Bat to the alt. Rewired it and she charges fine...

Thanks for all the help guys... clubagreenie etc...

Cheers,

Steve0