That's about the length and breadth of it. The oil allows the oring to remain an oring after it has been slid, squeezed, squished, squashed, etc.Originally Posted by Z2TT
Hi,
I was just thinking that Since the oil gets added when the system is pressurized, the seals will get oil anyway, whether when you do it while installing or after. Or maybe I didn't understand correctly.
Dale do you mean that oil should be added on the seals when installing, so when I tighten the joints on the fittings the seal will not want to rip apart?
And yeah I wonder if you can buy the oil in small quantities, as I think it's about $50 a litre.
That's about the length and breadth of it. The oil allows the oring to remain an oring after it has been slid, squeezed, squished, squashed, etc.Originally Posted by Z2TT
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Yes, it should be put on the seals when installing. Unless they're doing a real bad job of sealing they won't get coated in oil when the system is gassed.Originally Posted by Z2TT
If you get a few drops out of an open system it would suffice - tip a compressor upside down and use some of what drips out of the ports etc
I'm sure you could substitute something else to lubricate them with just as long as it's not going to cause the seals to perish
I am the sun
Or react with either the gas or the proper oil. This is the hard part to predict unless your really good with chemistry.Originally Posted by Dale
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Hi,Originally Posted by Dale
I was thinking just that, I'd only want to use a small small amount of some kind of oil, but i really don't know what to use. Might just get some from the old compressor when it comes out.
I got a quote today to retrofit r134a to my ae92, however after reading Witzl's post I think i'll be having a look to see if the nova is already r134a, all the aircon gear, save the dryer is from the 4agze ae92 levin frontcut...
$350 if retrofit required or $150 is not.
As for that HC test, I read in the report that he release 2 full cans into the cabin... is this realistic for a leak in the A/C system??? I would have thought that most A/C leaks take days/weeks/months to leak out? It's certainly a scary explosion, but what are the chances of it being re-created in an accident?
I've also read up on a product called Freeze12, which is supposed to be non-flammable and epa approved... we seem to only really have the choice of R134a here... regulations? until r134a is outlawed?
Can anyone recommend a place to goto in Melbourne?
Northern-North Eastern subs preferred.
Cheers,
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
Highly unlikely, where would there be an ignition source in the cabin?Originally Posted by inertia
Also since all A/C gasses are mixed in with Mineral oil, they are flammable too.
I've never heard of any such accidents where air con gas has ignited.
Yeah looks like that's only sold in US, and you cant import it because of customs. Look into Hychil, it's a hydrocarbon based R12 Alternative, Australian made. I think Burson Auto Parts sells canisters in the eastern states. Goto the hychill website, contact the regional manager for your area, and ask him for A/C Places that carry it.I've also read up on a product called Freeze12, which is supposed to be non-flammable and epa approved... we seem to only really have the choice of R134a here... regulations? until r134a is outlawed?
any wire with power that gets cut and shorted. any switch.. anything electrical that turns on or off....Originally Posted by Z2TT
edit: airbags too...
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Correct, but the gas is more likely to escape first from your condensor which is up at the front bar, than your evaporator that is in the cabin.
I've had one of my own cars leak from the evaporator (suspected, couldn't find any leaks anywhere else).Originally Posted by Z2TT
I've also had a few had his evaporator tested and found to be leaking.
Any component in the a/c system is a likely cause of a leak.
Try get another quote. $220-$260 seems to be the normal price for R134a conversion.Originally Posted by inertia
I've had 3 instances where the gas has leaked overnight.Originally Posted by inertia
One was from the evaporator, one from the compressor, and one from some wierd looking thing.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Do you smoke? Any of your family or friends smoke? Ever lit a cigarette while in your car?Originally Posted by Z2TT
When I worked in the trade, one of the first places I looked for a leak on a toyota was the TX valve which is normally in the evaporator box on most toyotas. It was very common to find them leaking.
It may only be a small leak that empties the system over a few months or longer, or it may empty over night. The problem with these gasses is though, they are heavier than air and will "pool" in low places in the car ie the footwell. It probably is highly unlikely that it would happen, but I wouldn't risk the chance of injury to myself or my family/friends just to save a couple of hundred dollars.
But it's your car and your choice.
Brad
Old Corollas never die...
My KE30
Updated 15/7/2007............ yes, I need to pull my finger out.
Good point.Originally Posted by BradW
I don't smoke, I've never lit a cigarette in my car and will never do so. Anybody who does that in my car gets out straight away.
Will try and get some quotes tomorrow... might even see what one of those mobile people want to do it...
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
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