Am i the only one that thought that having someone in the car to test if he got a red face was a slightly retarded idea when igniting gas inside a car?
In a Commodore do need the entire dash removed to get to either the heater or the air conditioner and therefore generally when they die the owner carries a blanket or drives with the windows down.
The toyotas I have played with only need the glove box removed and two pressure lines under the bonnet undone before the unit can be removed from its position between the blower on the left and heater core and vent ducting on the right.
Am i the only one that thought that having someone in the car to test if he got a red face was a slightly retarded idea when igniting gas inside a car?
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
sorry, what? did i miss something?
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
Apparently we all missed it ?
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Haha it seems i was watching a video from 2007Originally Posted by BradW
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KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
Seriously, they had all the expensive measuring equipment (to detect the correct concentration of gas) and they couldnt set up a remote ignitor..... instead they used a person inside the car with a box of matches? Epic Fail.
I drove a Pulsar N13 that did this, The A/C switch had a bad contact and would turn off the A/C sometimes, I had to fiddle with it clicking it on and off.Originally Posted by o_man_ra23
Just make sure no insects make their way inside, block off the inlets and outlets.Also, any tips on maintenance to do to the evaporator while it is out of the car other than wash the exterior of the core??
Maybe you could use a vacuum pump to suck out any dirt from the inside of it?
Just attaching a vacuum pump will only work if the stuff inside turns to vapour when the pressure has been lowered.Originally Posted by Z2TT
We cleaned out the AC on my Cressida a few years ago and I was amazed at the gunge we saw come out. With the pump disconnected we used an old pressure cylinder and put some solvent in and then chased it through the system with pressure and out out the other end. Seeing the rubbish (collected in a bottle) made me happy we had taken the time for the flush and I had to believe it resulted in an increased efficiency of the system.
If every time you had your AC re-gassed the guy added Xml of oil you would get an undesirable volume after a period of time so a old car might be in need of such a clean and more so if it has been open.
Hi,
Does anybody know what places sell A/C O-ring kits. I'm going to be replacing my Compressor and Reciever Drier soon, and while I'm at it I might as well replace the O-rings.
Thanks.
Just try an auto elecs (preferably a friendly one), they should give you some... I think by memory they're not meant to be put on dry, you are meant to use a special lubricant
I am the sun
Hi Dale,
What type of Special Lubricant?
What's the reason for putting them on using the lubricant, is it so the seal puffs up a bit and creates a better seal?
Thanks.
No, it's so it can slide when it gets assembled & conform to the pieces being mated together without rolling, kinking & hanging up, and then again when it's pressurizedOriginally Posted by Z2TT
Last edited by allencr; 20-01-2009 at 04:13 PM.
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
As above - and I'm pretty sure the lubricant you use is the same as what is used in AC systems (where to obtain it is another question!)
I am the sun
Ah,
Then I wouldn't need to use the lubricant when putting the O-rings in I guess, as once the system get's regassed, they will add oil along with the gas.
Thats completely the opposite of what he said.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
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